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scturner

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Hello all!

Guys, got question for anyone that owns a bandsaw. I own a 14" Delta, about 8 mths old. It has the 3/4" HP motor w/4" dust port and is the Chiniese model, wish I could afford the US model but that's life I guess. I'm also using a Timberwolf 1/2" blade thats working great. Before, I had a 3/4" TW on it but it cracked on me. Luckily I found the crack with the machine off, hate to think what would of happened with it running!

Anyway, long story short, in the past I've cut some really hard wood with this saw...cocobolo, purpleheart and yellowheart in the 2- 3" thick range and noticed the saw was having real difficulty cutting that size wood, would even stall on me a lot. Now it's doing it again trying to cut 2"x 2" x 24" Bocote.. tough stuff!

Thing is, this size saw should cut this size wood like butter, right? I was under the impression it would but now I have my doubts more than ever. I think it is badly underhorsepowered for the task. It cuts great on little stuff, soft materials but just dies on this larger tougher woods.

Just wondering if anyone else has had this problem with their bandsaw and what can be done about it. I've tought about upgrading the motor to maybe a 1 HP US motor for more juice but not sure if that will fix the problem or not.

Thanks in advance for any help.
 
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vick

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I would think your saw engine should be able to handle it fine. I would like to know how many teath per inch you have on your blade. I would recommend a 4 tpi or 3 tpi for this kind of large block. Also I am not an expert but I know the type of blade (skip toth, ect) have different uses and you may want to investigate that. I have a band saw book at home that I can reference for you when I get home if someone else does not know off the top of there head.
 

Dario

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How new/sharp is your blade? If it is dull it is bound to stall. A dull blade is a dull blade...even if it is timberwolf [;)].
 
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Originally posted by scturner
<br />Snip
I'm also using a Timberwolf 1/2" blade thats working great.

Snip

in the past I've cut some really hard wood with this saw...cocobolo, purpleheart and yellowheart in the 2- 3" thick range and noticed the saw was having real difficulty cutting that size wood, would even stall on me a lot.

Snip

I know everybody loves Timberwolf blades, but from my experience is they cut great only when they are new. But they are damaged to easily and once damaged it's time to throw them away. I gave up on them.

Like Dairo says "A dull blade is a dull blade. . ."

On my 14" chinese bandsaw, I use a Olson 4tpi 3/8" blade and I have veneered 6" stock down to 3/32".
 

scturner

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Vick, Dario thanks for your replys.

Vick, the 1/2" I'm using now has 4tpi. Timberwolf uses a hook tooth design I believe, no skip or offset in the blade. The 3/4" had 3tpi. After the 3/4" cracked on me (maybe metal fatique according to the place I bought from) I changed over to the smaller 1/2" to give it a try. May need to go back to the 3/4" though.

Dario, you have a good point! The blade is only about 2- 3 mths old but could be getting dull for sure. Let me ask you, have you guys used one of those lubricating sticks or something similar to clean to clean up the blades? It might just need a good cleaning and I'd hate to get a brand new blade if not neccessary.
 

Dario

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2-3 months old blade? Depending on use it could be very dull now. As with any cutting tool you can check visually or by the fingernail test [;)]. if light reflects back at the cutting edge then it is dull. If it slides on your fingernails and not cutting in then it is dull...that's how I test mine.

Search the boards...I know I posted how I sharpen my blades using a Dremel. Works great for me. Instead of throwing my blades...I probably re-sharpened them 3 times each and still going.

I have some blades (lots actually) that broke on me because I push them until they reach that point. Now that I re-sharpen my blades, haven't had any breakage yet. I guess they are running much cooler now.

Dull blade heats up fast, cuts in curves (which produce more heat), cuts scalloped/bowed on thick stocks (worst heat generator as far as I know). Heat can cause blade failure/breakage or dulls the blade faster too.

I use 1/2" wide 3 and 4 tpi TW blades on my ShopSmith...though it works great, it is way too small for me. If and when money is not too tight I will get me one of those that have 12" vertical clearance (probably a ShopFox).
 

Rifleman1776

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My 14" Grizzly now has a Timberwolf 3/8"X6TPI blade and I often resaw hard woods of the type you mention up to 6" thick with no problem. My blade is about two years old and I suspect getting dull but it is used daily. I would call Suffolk Machinery and talk to their sales/tech reps, they will well advise you.
 

Dario

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One more thing that eats up the blade....make sure you are milling CLEAN wood. Any soil/sand particles (esp on bark etc.) will grind the edge of your blade fast!!!

Last I talked to Suffork guys they gave the expected life of the blade in LF of milled wood. Can't recall what it is now.

Frank...2 years of daily use? WOW!!! You must have gotten a special blade...mine only lasts a month or 2 and they are not used daily. When I do turn my bandsaw...it works hard though [:D]
 

scturner

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Thanks for the good info everyone! Ok, I'm going to give the blade the fingernail test. Now that I've tought about it some more and looked the blade over it is very dirty and no doubt dull. It did curve and wander a good bit in the wood. I'll try to sharpen it up if I can.

Dario, yes the wood I use mainly is already milled square 4 sides and relatively clean to start but as you know certain woods (exotics) tend to be oily and gum up things up pretty good, so, a good blade cleaning and sharpening should help alot.

I like the Timberwolf blades but if the cutting dosen't get better after cleaning and sharpening I may give the Olson blades a try. You guys are probably right on this, not the HP that's the problem just a funky dirty blade thing.

Thanks guys!
 

Doghouse

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I have overheated the motor on my delta 3 times now from re-sawing. Usualy means I need a new blade. Once I change the blade it makes a difference. I am thinking about upgrading the motor also, just have not found a good replacement yet.
 

rtparso

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David,
You said that the blade is dirty. I have found that any tool will act dull if it is dirty. I carefully clean my blade after resawing with a bronze brush held agenst the side of the blade then with the saw off (and unpluged) I wipe the blade with WD40 or Militec http://www.militec-1.com/.
 

ctEaglesc

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I use only Timberwolfs and even tried Olsens,
No Comparison, TW's win hads down.
I would suggest you get Duginskies book on setting up a bandsaw.
One thought occured to me.
If you set your blades tension according to the flutter test in the instructions, if the blade ran slack for any length of time it would hit the metal channel on the feed side(to your left before it goes over the wheel)
Since you went from a 3/4 inch blade(which is a serious blade for a 14" saw) how did you set your guide blocks?
Doesn't Delta use metal guide blocks? or have you changed them.
If a TW blade isn't tensioned correctedly it will run hot and by ruing the temper the blades will get dull quicker.
BTW bladdes get dull they are a replacement item[:D]
 

low_48

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What everyone else said, plus some exotic woods have high silica content. Basically like cutting sandstone!!!! That can take a blade out in about 2 cuts, not 2 months!
 

woodwish

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Sounds like a dull blade to me, now why it got dull that fast is the million $$$ question! I taught wood shop a lot of years, a dull bandsaw blade is an accident waiting to happen. If you ever have a blade break on you while it's cutting under tension it will make you check your underwear!! [:p]
 

alamocdc

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David, if the blade is dirty and you clean and/or replace it, don't forget to clean both tires. That will redirty the clean or new blade and you'll soon be right back where you started. Keeping the tires clean is often over looked.
 

scturner

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WoW! Thanks everybody for helping with all the advice and info!! Guess I haven't had the saw long enough to really learn all the in's and out's of it but getting there. When I first put a TW blade on the saw and made a cut (can't remember what wood it was) all I could say was..Man does that thing cut great! and it's the only blade I've used so far, never tried an Olson on it.

woodwish,
I've never encountered that and hope I never do! That cracked 3/4" blade was enough to scare me and thankfully it wasn't running.

low_48,
Yes, I agree! I think that is the biggest problem for my blades, hard exotic wood. I've managed to cut 3.5" sq. Purpleheart blocks but the saw was really screaming and bogging down. As you say, I believe these woods really do a number quickly on blades no matter the maker.

cteaglesc,
Good idea on the book, have heard good things about it. No doubt a good investment! and I will give it a look over and probably buy it.
Yes, I did the flutter test with each TW blade I use and try to remove all flutter. The saw has the quick release tension lever and I adjust the tension to what the blade size is but some slack could have been the problem working with the hard wood. And yes, one time it did move off the rear bearing, top guides, it wasn't pretty.
The Delta does use steel guides, I haven't changed them. I set them using the dollar bill slip test. that usually works but did notice what seemed to be some tightness "blade to guides" which could have also contributed to increased heat, the blade may just be shot but dosen't look bad from inspection.
Yep, may be time for a blade change. Price issn't bad for all the work they do.

rtparso,
Thanks for the link! Sounds like good stuff to combat high temps. Thanks also for the cleaning tips. I'll give that a try on the blade. At least some lubricant should help a great deal.

Goodwood,
Are you referring to as in "seated"? That could be a factor as well but I think it is ok, the blade runs smooth and even under no load.

Doghouse,
I hear ya! Not sure if my motor over heated or not but probably did big time. I'm starting to think if the saw had more motor HP coupled with a new blade I'd be in great shape.

Well guys, lots of great advice! I'm gonna get that band saw book but in the meantime will clean and lube the blade well, check guides and tension again. If that fails, I'll just get a new blade. The motor runs good so will try these other things first...and read the book too!

Thanks all, really appreciate the input!
 

Rifleman1776

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Originally posted by Cam
<br />Are you sure the blade isn't installed backwards. I use 3/16th TW blades and the first 2 I installed backwards. I couldn't figure out why my saw was smoking.

Cam

Yes, but they last so much longer that way. [:D] Sorry, [:I] I couldn't resist.
 

scturner

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Hey all!

I checked the blade for backwardness but didn't find it in that condition[:D]. Yep they sure would last a whole lot longer that way! Never saw any smoke thank goodness.

Michael,
Hey there partner! Wish that was it but seems to be something worse. I almost did put the blade on backwards till my wife looked over my shoulder[:0].

cteaglesc,
I am going to do that. Cool blocks are looking good at this point and will get a set soon. I also checked out the Bandsaw Handbook at Amazon. Lots of great reviews on it...I'm going to get it Thursday! Also going to install the little brush thingy to remove dust from the tire(s). They have them available at Woodcraft. Might as well start getting things right on the ole saw. Thanks for the advice.

Mike,
Do you use your 3/8" TW to cut big stuff, exotics and such? Does the smaller blade run true? I was told I should use 1/2"- 3/4" for the accuracy when doing long straight cuts, which is the majority of my cutting.. your thoughts please?

Woodbutcher,
I don't have any beeswax on hand but have some carnuba wax, same thing or won't work as well?

Thanks,
 

ed4copies

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One last possibility-looks like I may be the only one with this condition.

Is your power up to snuff? I installed a planer in my garage-bogged down constantly. Ran a 220 service to a subpanel in the garage, rewired the planer to the subpanel with an honest 30 amp, 110v, SUCKER WORKS!!!!

Just a thought!
 

scturner

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Piedmont, SC, USA.
Billy,
thanks for bringing that up! I did clean up the tires and will do so after every use. As you say, that's a problem I haven't took into account. I'm getting a tire sweep ASAP!

Ed,
The juice to my building is running pretty strong actually. You know my big Delta lathe has a 3/4 HP motor too and that thing runs like a mule but I'll use my meter and check the voltage/amps on that circuit just to be sure. That certainly could be the problem of bogging down like your planer. I think I'll start with the procress of elimination and a new blade with a good tune-up, then go from there. Good idea.. I'll keep you posted.
 

Skordog

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Just thought I would throw in my 2 cents worth. I bought a couple of Timberwolf blades recently for my 14" Grizzly. When I was ordering them from the manufacturer he told me that the 1" 3tpi blade should NOT be used for plywood because it would get dull in a hurry. The 3/8" (tpi?) would be fine for any kind of wood.

Have you used your 1/2" with plywood? Or maybe all the exotics are the problem.
 
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