Bandsaw or Table saw?

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DJBPenmaker

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I'm want to do some segmenting and wondered what the general preference for a saw might be and why. Any input much appreciated.

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Dehn0045

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I think that a table saw is more versatile for general woodworking (assuming saws in the same price range). You can build all kinds of sleds for different cuts, and the cuts can be pretty precise. But the obvious limitation is straight cuts. Both tools have their hazards, but I would say that a table saw can be more dangerous. Table saw also tends to be louder. I recommend the Dewalt DW745 series saw, it is relatively inexpensive, has a pretty good fence, and plenty of power. Bandsaws definitely have their place, if you are really squeezed on price then a cheap 9 inch bandsaw will get you by on some pen segmenting and other small projects. A larger saw will give you more precision, depth of cut, and versatility. Just my 2 cents...
 

leehljp

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There are those that do prefer the bandsaw and as already mentioned it has the thinner kerf. The bandsaw is more flexible as you can get a smaller blade for curves as mentioned.

However, unless you take the time to learn and get experience on the BS, getting smooth cuts for sharp and precise segments, it will be difficult. I have seen a few guys show their cuts with a band saw and they did look good. That is not a natural thing that just comes with owning a band saw. It means knowing how to tweak and finesse the saw.

TS - AS to kerf, there are small thin blades available (1/16 inch and less) on the market (some at a high price) that will cut with a very thin kerf.

When I was overseas, (Japan) I bought a 6 1/2 inch circular saw and mounted it under a table. I added a sled to it for safety and fiddled with jigs. The advantage that I had there was that I frequented a tool store than had a large number of millimeter thick carbide blades and some that were .9mm thick. I bought a half a dozen of those. These blades will cut smooth and almost as thin as most 3/8 in bandsaw blades.

On occasion, I see a store online in which you can get a 6 1/2 inch TS blade with nearly 1mm thick kerf. Those will be ideal. Beyond that, the MicroMark and one other tabletop Mini saw (Senior moment on the name) that is high quality, - these are available if you want a TS and thin kerfs - but expensive also.

In general, TS=smoother but thicker kerfs (use a sled)
In general, BS= thinner kerfs, versital (waves) but rougher cuts. Use a sled.

One warning: table top bandsaws are very iffy. Many do not cut 3/4 inch (18mm) hardwoods very easily. A few brands might. Some 10 inch BS's have a better reputation. But overall, it is in the 12 to 14 inch BSs before getting consistent cutting on hardwood.

My two cents and three yen! :biggrin:
 
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Mikeyt

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I have a table saw and a band saw both are great for what they can do for segmenting. But if I could go back in time I would tell myself to buy the byrnes table saw I have used that more then my bandsaw and table saw combined. I wish I had known how good it really is for segmenting. Now I use my table saw and bandsaw for bigger work not pen related but by far my byrnes table saw has been worth it to me. A little expensive but I feel it has done everything that my bandsaw and table saw could do only better.


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greenacres2

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I haven't done a lot of segmenting, but for my Celtic knots (and corner splines in boxes) I use a 7.25" blade in my 10" table saw. Since I bought it originally for exposed splines, it's not a box store blade, but this one General Purpose Saw Blade, 7 1/4" x 60T TCG, Popular Tools GT760 Kerf is right at 1/16", and there is no measurable run-out. The TCG is not really necessary for cutting knots--that joint will be turned away anyway--but for corner splines in boxes and frames this blade leaves an absolutely flat bottom.
earl
 

eharri446

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I use a Ryobi 18 volt Miter saw to cut blanks to length and to cut pieces when I need to extend a piece for a blank. I replaced the blade with a 7 1/4 inch Freud 60T blade and my cuts are like glass. I am working on being able to cut the blank exactly at the tube once it is glued and drilled to eliminate having to sand them to length. I have a 10" Porter Cabkle table saw with a 80T blade on it and have jigs to allow me to cut my pen blanks. However, my little miter saw is what I use to cut almost all of my blanks.
 

dogcatcher

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I have a 1940 Craftsman table saw with 7 1/4 inch plywood blade on it that I used for segmenting. Once I got it was trued up to the sled, I quit using any other method. I would use it and then cover it up so nobody would touch it. I had another table saw for other stuff, and this one was light enough that I can store it when not being used.
 

DennisM

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I prefer a table saw with a nice sled, but I have to now work with a bandsaw, due to the tablesaw being to loud in my little townhome garage.

With the bandsaw, you have to Use a sled, period, and it takes it a little longer to cut, so you move a little slower not to flex the blade. It does require more sanding for segmenting work but it is doable..
 

jttheclockman

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I was not going to weigh in on this but I see statements here that are so not true. Each saw has their pluses and no minuses. You can not say either tool has negatives because it is NOT true. Each tool does what it is designed to do and that is all any tool can do. I can not use a sander to cut wood so why do you people compare one to each other. Tells me you do not know machinery.

When the OP asks about segmenting they have to ask what type segmenting they will be doing. What else are you planing to use the tool for?? When you say segmenting are you talking just segmenting of pen blanks and if so what type of segmenting?? Will your segments have curves in them or will they be straight cuts (angled or not does not matter).

A bandsaw is definetly no more universal than a tablesaw or as put versatile. Again each tool will do what is designed to do. For better quality cuts the tablesaw will do this. You can get good quality cuts for segmenting on a bandsaw also if the right blade is used and the tool is tuned properly. Again it was mentioned how thin a piece can be cut on a bandsaw. I can cut the same slice on a tablesaw. Now if you are talking taller pieces than a tablesaw can only cut the depth of blade twice its height and a bandsaw can do more. I am not going to go into what the strengths of each tool can do because that is ridiculous.

I do segmenting work and I have shown many samples of my work here so I am not talking out my hat. I do not have a Byrnes saw which I think is overpriced and for people who have money to burn. I do segmenting on a contractor style 10" Deltas saw and I use jigs. I also do alot of segmenting on my lathe and the use of a router which I have shown here many times.

So my point here is to the OP decide what your needs are beyond pen making. Do not let pen blank segmenting determine what tool to buy unless in your mind that is all you are going to do. And then ask yourself am I going to add curves to my segmenting and if the answer is yes than bandsaw is your tool. Then you need to ask do I have the room for a floor model or will a cheap tabletop model work for what I want. Each tool you buy will determine the size of work you can perform on it so these are questions you need answered. And no one is not any better than another. My 2 cents Better add some smileys:):):):)
 

Rifleman1776

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I'm want to do some segmenting and wondered what the general preference for a saw might be and why. Any input much appreciated.

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You have already received conflicting opinions.
My choice is the bandsaw. Mine cuts cleanly with no ridges. Thinner kerf. IMHO, safer than a table saw. And, for clean cutting on the table saw you need a really good blade. Those usually start at $50.00 and go up, way up. For me, safety is a huge consideration. Personally, I shy away from getting my fingers close to a table saw blade and that is what is required for cutting tiny pieces for a segmented pen blank. Bandsaw vote here.
 

Aces-High

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Derek,
I actually use both. I use TS to get strips to the thickness I want, then for the angles I use a BS. I do also use a benchtop sander.

Things I have learned:
-If your BS blade is dull, it will never cut straight, ever.
-you have to make double sure that your TS is squared up when making your strips...
-jigs, jigs, jigs
I'm sure there are more...

Jason
 

jttheclockman

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Thanks everyone. Lots of info packed into your posts and a lot for me to mull over and consider.


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As you can see different opinions and different tools used. Many different ways of doing segmenting. You can use a miter saw and a hand operated mitersaw at that if you want. A scrollsaw can be used. As far as one being safer it all depends on your ability to use the tool properly. Tablesaws get bad raps because people do not know how to use them. Plain and simple. The use of jigs is needed when working on any machinery and working with thin and small material and that includes bandsaw. So again you can not compare one to the other or against each other. Every person here will give their versions because that is what they grown accustomed to using. That is all. No one tool is better than another. Each tool will do what it is designed to do. You now take each tool in consideration when deciding what type segmenting you want to do.

When you do and get into it ask specific questions and your answers will be more direct and to the point and much more helpful. Look forward to seeing what you come up with.
 

Rifleman1776

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Thanks everyone. Lots of info packed into your posts and a lot for me to mull over and consider.


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As you "mull", ask yourself this: 'do I really like my fingers being attached to my hand or can I risk having them come off?'
My son is an ER doc. He says he sees four or five retirement age guys a month who have amputated some fingers in their woodworking shop. Most frequently the table saw is the tool they (mis)used.
 

DJBPenmaker

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Thanks everyone. Lots of info packed into your posts and a lot for me to mull over and consider.


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As you "mull", ask yourself this: 'do I really like my fingers being attached to my hand or can I risk having them come off?'
My son is an ER doc. He says he sees four or five retirement age guys a month who have amputated some fingers in their woodworking shop. Most frequently the table saw is the tool they (mis)used.
Ooooops

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jttheclockman

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Thanks everyone. Lots of info packed into your posts and a lot for me to mull over and consider.


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As you "mull", ask yourself this: 'do I really like my fingers being attached to my hand or can I risk having them come off?'
My son is an ER doc. He says he sees four or five retirement age guys a month who have amputated some fingers in their woodworking shop. Most frequently the table saw is the tool they (mis)used.


Please stop. Every tool in the shop can be dangerous. A bandsaw can be just as dangerous because you let your guard down thinking it can not hurt me as bad as a tablesaw. There are way too many people who are weekend warriors and do not have the knowledge to use woodworking tools of any kind. There are a ton of devices on the market to make a tablesaw safer. There are saws that use the break engineering that can be bought. Yes it is more expensive but if you weigh an emergency visit as opposed to the saw price you do the math. How many people take the splitter off the saw?? How many people take the blade guard off the saw?? How many people do not use a proper push block and this can go on and on and on. I just hate when people come here and tell the world a bandsaw is safer than a tablesaw. tells me that person does not know how to use a tablesaw and know what its value is. Every tool needs to be treated as if it can hurt you. I believe a router is more dangerous than a tablesaw but fewer people use them and that is why the numbers on tablesaws is higher.

This is one reason I hate to see school districts do away the vocational schooling and training. It is showing up now in the lack of skilled craftspeople in the trades. Even if you do not follow through with the education you still pick up valuable knowledge that can follow you into those down years.

Ask your son how many sprains and broken bones he treats from weekend warriors trying to relive their youth!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!:eek:
 
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Bryguy

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I have a bandsaw and a tablesaw. I made my self a segmenting sled for the tablesaw. As I work to really excel at segmenting I went nuts and invested in a Byrnes table saw and thickness sander. If you are starting with already cut blanks I'd saw go with the Byrnes table saw. Doesn't take up any room and is extraordinarily accurate. I'm in love! I also just sprung on a mill for making clips and doing inlay. Holy moley, this is can be an expensive hobby.
Obviously if you need to cut your blanks from larger pieces of wood you'll need a band saw or table saw. I'd go with a bandsaw if you are planning on resawing. You also get to make cool things like bansaw boxes.
 

fernhills

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I use all three methods. TS to cut to thickness, band saw to cut angles. Disc sander to sneak up on those angles and a good crisp joint. I use premade angles on the table of the disc sander for consistency. carl
 
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John T is right on on this one. I own, and use, both a TS and BS and have injured myself on both of them (no amputations but some cuts). To be very honest, I've done a lot more damage to myself with a framing hammer over the years than with any other tool. First off SAFETY should be the first tool for everyone in your shop. I have a sign outside on my shop door with all the rules about coming into my shop and if you can't abide by my rules then your not welcome. The most important thing I've learned about my power tools is to completely understand how they operate and start out by getting to know my tools and how they operate.
 

Dehn0045

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People that are extremely safe and technically competent still get cut using these tools. My uncle who had been a professional woodworker for about 30 years without any significant injuries, cut his hand quite bad with a router. Another example is this video (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kIfuViyki0Q) of Matthias Wandel, an obviously skilled and competent woodworker, cutting his finger on a table saw. After seeing this video, I decided that my next major tool purchase will be a Sawstop table saw, but obviously all power tools need to be handled with care and not every tool will have this type of safety feature. In my opinion the best safety advice is "look and think".
 

DJBPenmaker

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Thanks to all!
I've decided to go with a very well set up bandsaw and bench sander and make a mitre sled for the bandsaw for accurate repeat cuts.
I like that the bandsaw is less aggressive and I think is more versatile for the direction I want to take.



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DJBPenmaker

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I've read and re-read all the posts and the more I study your replies the more I realise I'm going to need both types of saw! Oh well. I suppose I knew it would be an expensive hobby. Keeps me out of mischief though (or so my wife thinks)

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