Aughh

[Firefyter-emt]

Someone help me out here. I spend an hour or so making a dedicated sled to cut 45 degree angles in a pen blank to use on my table saw. (fancy one too, I even made adjustable length stop) I was able to cut the blank without major issues, however, I am having a heck of a time with glue up. I am trying to make a blank with the "X" on all 4 sides to give me the dual rings once turned. How the heck do you clamp this up?? Is the best bet to use a CA glue & hit it with that spray acelerator?? Just a little mad here because the blank guled up poorly with epoxy and I did not even bother to turn it. I am glad I was only using some scrap oak & maple to test the method. I think the cutting portion down good, but help me glue this up.

Any jigs you can share photos with me? [B)]

 

[gerryr]

I don't use any jigs for glue ups, some people might, but I've never seen any mention of them. I use medium CA to glue the peices together. It allows me just enough time to check it all the way around to make sure everything lines up.

 

[alamocdc]

Lee, I use wood glue for mine and I do use a jig. It's a piece of aluminum angle with a stop screwed in place. I use a minimum of three clamps to keep everything square. I'd post a picture of it, but I must have it buried under something 'cause I can't seem to locate it. I reorganized a few days ago, so...[]

 

[Firefyter-emt]

Also.. do you guys "fit" the inserts of glue long & trim flush after glue up?? I would love to do this, but all I achived was a dirty shop that I have to go clean up now..

 

[alamocdc]

Yes, I always leave everything long if and when I can.

 

[vick]

You can use ca and just hold it in place till it sets, or with wood glue put a clamp sideway on the cut to prevent it from slipping and then clamp the ends like normal.

 

[dfurlano]

I build it on the tube. Now you have three options or you can create your own!

 

[KingBubbaTruck]

The one thing I found lately when trying this was that if I don't have the size of the replacement piece exactly match the size of the kerf of the blade, well then it really didn't matter. Things started to drift and the lines would not match up real well.

I found that some medium CA and about 20 seconds (and some disposal rubber gloves) and using the ole eyes to make sure the X's matched up was my best bet...

 

[Jim Boyd]

Originally posted by KingBubbaTruck
<br />The one thing I found lately when trying this was that if I don't have the size of the replacement piece exactly match the size of the kerf of the blade, well then it really didn't matter. Things started to drift and the lines would not match up real well.

I found that some medium CA and about 20 seconds (and some disposal rubber gloves) and using the ole eyes to make sure the X's matched up was my best bet...

That was the biggest key for me. If the veneer was not the same thickness as the blade, all was lost. I use thick ca.
EDIT to say that the angle of 45 degrees is not a factor. Just all cuts have to be the same angle.

 

[Firefyter-emt]

2.57mm saw kerf.. [] My insert piece was pretty dead on, but I could not get it to clamp straight and I had some gaps just trying to hold it. I will try the CA next time. Just gotta buy myself some!

 

[KingBubbaTruck]

Here's my simple jig I made for slicing the kerfs.

I already had the cut off sled. I use it all the time for small pieces. All I did was fit another little threaded insert in it and made the pivoting fence with the built in stop block. I can set it to any angle, and the stop block makes sure all cuts line up.

I did some tests with my 1/8 inch blade, and they looked a little thick.

I'll try a 3/32 inch blade next.

Has anyone found any blades they can put on a table saw that is thinner than 3/32?

 

[KingBubbaTruck]

Oh,

and I guess 2.57mm is a little thicker than 3/32 and a little thinner than 1/8?

 

[Firefyter-emt]

Not sure, I use the metric system more.. Just makes more sence to me. I measured the saw cut left with a digital caliper. The blade itself may be a tad smaller, but we are talking about what is removed by the blade, not the blade. Any runout in the arbor would make a wider cut. Is that block held with just 1 T-nut??

Any more photos of that sled? The rear fence set up looks interesting.

 

[KingBubbaTruck]

So, here's the rest of the sled.

I forget where I got the plans for this... (Sorry) But If I run across it, I'll post it. I bet it was from ShopNotes, WoodSmith, or Wood Magazine , (The only ones I subscribe to anymore)

The two wings are slide on aluminum flats in slots on either side of the center, which forms a 45 degree angle type jig. Last time I measured it, it was pretty accurate, but it took a little epoxy to fine tune it.

Threaded inserts are really pretty strong, especially when you've got all the surface area that the pivot jig has. I'm just cutting 3/4 inch high (around 20mm for the fractionally challenged [] ).

I like it because I know the 90 degree is dead on and the little channel track I added (leftovers from another project, added much later) makes it easy to have a stop slider on it.

 

[scubaman]

Originally posted by KingBubbaTruck
<br />Has anyone found any blades they can put on a table saw that is thinner than 3/32?

You can use a thin-kerf 7 1/4" blade on your table saw. Diablo makes one you can pick up at Home Depot, 1/16" kerf

 

[mick]

I use the Freud Diablo on my miter saw to cut my segmented pens...It's a fantastic blade. Although if you use the 7 1/4 on a 10 inch miter saw you'll have to build a sled to raise the height of your work up to compensate for the lesser diameter.On a table saw though it should work great!

 

[KingBubbaTruck]

Guess I've got a reason to run to the Borg!

Thanks!