Anyone used this drive center?

[jbostian]

I was thinking about getting a steb center to start turning between centers. I found this one at PSI and was wondering if anyone on here has used it. If you have please let me know what you think about it.
http://www.pennstateind.com/store/LCENTQC58.html

Jamie

 

[leestoresund]

Steb center

I just bought the 1/2" steb #1MT rom PSI today.

I sure hope it works.

Lee

 

[Fred]

I have been using the Sorbey steb centers for well over two years. I believe they are the way to go regardless of the maker.

 

[pensbydesign]

i really like steb centers they work very well, i like that the center retracts into itself not into the wood causing problems with splitting.

 

[Bree]

I don't understand why you would want a serrated drive center for turning pens between centers. Seems to me that you would want a 60 degree dead center for the headstock... plain and simple. $5 at ENCO.

The Steb-like center at PSI should be good for spindle turning but I don't think the Steb part would be used for a pen and the 60 degree center is spring loaded which would reduce its hold on the bushing or the tube if you were finishing without the bushing. I would think that the teeth would just get in the way of turning and maybe even be dangerous.

I confess that I don't turn between centers so I may be missing something or not understand how this drive center is to be used.

 

[rherrell]

I agree with Bree, a plain 60 degree dead center and a 60 degree live center is all you need to turn PENS between centers. However, a Steb type center is great for spindle work or making square pen blanks round.:wink:
I have the 5/8" MT2 one from Woodcraft and at 1/3 the price of a real Steb center it's a great buy.

 

[Daniel]

I am not sure if you meant turning between centers in general, or turning pens between centers. the quick mount would be convenient if you are in the habit of keeping your scroll chuck on your lathe. but convenience comes at the cost of accuracy. For best accuracy i have always had it in my head that an MT mount is best.

 

[jbostian]

To be honest I have never turned between centers before. But I guess I should clarify I am wanting to turn the blanks round using the steb center, then drill the blanks on the lathe, then turn the pen between centers. It was my understanding that I needed the steb driver to turn the blanks round. If there are other ways I am willing to try them.

Thanks,
Jamie

 

[bgibb42]

That center should work fine for your purposes. I use the same center rherrell uses to turn my blanks round and then use a collet chuck to drill them. Basically the same procedure outlined in the PDF below, which is in the library if you ever need to find it again.

 

[KenV]

The PSI knockoffs are a lot less costly than the Sorby -- but PSI no longer sells the knockoffs in the same sizes as Sorby - I have the 5/8 in MT2 format - good drive center for rounding blanks and odd shaped pieces of wood that I want into round blanks. It is not as handy as the 1/2 inch from Sorby, but costs about 1/3 the price - and that works for as often as I use it.

You will not have a lot of clearance turning tenons without getting close to the steel and the use with a scroll chuck behind the blanks will be very tight. I suggest you think about the Morse Taper version to assure your knuckles and hand do not get beat up.

Note that you do not need a perfect circle to fit nicely into a scrolls chuck jaws - you do want a nice square shoulder to fit against the end of the jaws and a reasonably smooth arc for the jaws to grip - Barracuda and one ways jaws are grip type vs Nova Vicmark dovetail type. Why the shoulder -- It takes the thrust of the drill bit when you drill instead of relying on the jaws deforming the wood. With a shoulder, the jaws just need to be snug - not a death grip.

 

[fernhills]

Hi, i like to turn my pen blanks round before i drill and you get to see how it looks in a round form. So what you want to do, is get a drive center that grips your blank. But make sure the dia. is 1/2" or 3/8" so your turning tools won`t hit it. 20 to 22 bucks anywhere. Never did the blanks blow up,come apart, or whatever because of a drive center, never did i split stock, you don`t bang in point unless you drill for it first. Carl

 

[jbostian]

Hi, i like to turn my pen blanks round before i drill and you get to see how it looks in a round form. So what you want to do, is get a drive center that grips your blank. But make sure the dia. is 1/2" or 3/8" so your turning tools won`t hit it. 20 to 22 bucks anywhere. Never did the blanks blow up,come apart, or whatever because of a drive center, never did i split stock, you don`t bang in point unless you drill for it first. Carl

That is exactly what I am wanting to do. Thanks for the info.

Jamie

 

[jbostian]

That center should work fine for your purposes. I use the same center rherrell uses to turn my blanks round and then use a collet chuck to drill them. Basically the same procedure outlined in the PDF below, which is in the library if you ever need to find it again.

Thanks for the link, that is the way I plan on doing it.

Jamie

 

[jbostian]

The PSI knockoffs are a lot less costly than the Sorby -- but PSI no longer sells the knockoffs in the same sizes as Sorby - I have the 5/8 in MT2 format - good drive center for rounding blanks and odd shaped pieces of wood that I want into round blanks. It is not as handy as the 1/2 inch from Sorby, but costs about 1/3 the price - and that works for as often as I use it.

You will not have a lot of clearance turning tenons without getting close to the steel and the use with a scroll chuck behind the blanks will be very tight. I suggest you think about the Morse Taper version to assure your knuckles and hand do not get beat up.

Note that you do not need a perfect circle to fit nicely into a scrolls chuck jaws - you do want a nice square shoulder to fit against the end of the jaws and a reasonably smooth arc for the jaws to grip - Barracuda and one ways jaws are grip type vs Nova Vicmark dovetail type. Why the shoulder -- It takes the thrust of the drill bit when you drill instead of relying on the jaws deforming the wood. With a shoulder, the jaws just need to be snug - not a death grip.

Thanks for the info. I will probably go with the MT#2 version. Right now I only have a collet chuck system. The scroll chuck will probably be my birthday present to myself next month!

Jamie

 

[Daniel]

Jamie, I am one of those that hates to have to change things around, But I would still go with the MT center and just plan my work to do several blanks at a time to avoid as much changing around as possible. Others don't mind changing chucks and that sort of thing at all. I am jsut tryign to point out that even though it woudl not be my number one choice for personal preference reasons. i would still make it for the quality issues.

 

[jbostian]

Jamie, I am one of those that hates to have to change things around, But I would still go with the MT center and just plan my work to do several blanks at a time to avoid as much changing around as possible. Others don't mind changing chucks and that sort of thing at all. I am jsut tryign to point out that even though it woudl not be my number one choice for personal preference reasons. i would still make it for the quality issues.

I was kind of thinking the same thing. I just won a good size lot of mixed pen blanks off ebay. Not any real exciting blanks but plenty to practice on. I think there are 7 different speices of wood and was thinking I would turn a few blanks of each species and have them ready to make a pen whenever I want to. Plus I don't have any money to buy kits since I just bought a lathe and blanks. I may not be making complete pens but at least I would still be turing.

Jamie

 

[Mac]

The vortex at work!!
As for as I know all wood lathes come with spur center. I would use what I have and buy something that I don't have and need. I turn other stuff as well as pens and I bought a chuck with many different jaws. And I already had a table saw and have made a sled to insure that my blanks are square if need be, so I can drill square blanks on the lathe, or I can turn round and drill on the lathe either way with the same tool. I try to get tools that are multipurpose, as I have done everything in life. I have to justify everything that I buy in my mind. So multipurpose tools are a big thing to me and I will have more $ to buy the tools that I don't have. It makes cents to me..
You don't have to have a round or square blank to turn unless you are making segmented or celtic knots etc. I can cut a limb off a cedar and drill it at an angle and turn it and it wines up a pen blank with some sap wood going into the red center and makes a very nice blank.