Bear Tooth Woods - New Series Screwcap Chrome Rollerball Pen Kit
Looks like a nice kit. Anyone give it an try?
Thank you!
Looks like a nice kit. Anyone give it an try?
Thank you!
Anyone Try This Kit Yet
- Thread starter TonyL
- Start date
Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad
Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad
I haven't used it yet, but I'll be looking forward to seeing the replies. My wife saw this kit and wants me to give it a try and make a pen for her using it. I haven't ordered it yet, but am interested in seeing what others might have to say about it.
One thing that I think it has going for it is that it's from Berea. I haven't used a lot of Berea's kits, but the ones I've used I have been quite happy with the quality of.
One thing that I think it has going for it is that it's from Berea. I haven't used a lot of Berea's kits, but the ones I've used I have been quite happy with the quality of.
ed4copies
Local Chapter Manager
The "New series" is not really new. They have been available for several years. Here is the description of them:
The New Series Style Roller Ball and Fountain pens, are a new and improved version of the popular Series 2000 Flat Top American Screw Cap Roller Ball and Fountain pens. These new roller ball and fountain pens have the same, great features as the original versions but, also features a new stylish domed cap finial, all metal nib and sections and a classic designed center band.
FEATURES:
Cap screws on barrel with a fast 1/4 turn (Quad Thread).
Cap posts on end of barrel with a fast 1/4 turn
Requires no cap adjustment or readjustment
Tight seal to keep ink fresh
This is a true "professional" looking and functioning pen! The new flat top is also available in a Roller ball pen or Ballpoint version.
The "new series" does have two tubes with equal diameter (.363ish"). It is constructed with a threaded centerband, so there is no plastic insert--metal on metal threads. In short, it is designed as many have requested on the "design our own" thread.
May want to try it, if it catches on, we could get additional plating options. Right now, it is chrome or Upgrade gold (cobalt alloy).
Feedback is welcome!!!
Ed
The New Series Style Roller Ball and Fountain pens, are a new and improved version of the popular Series 2000 Flat Top American Screw Cap Roller Ball and Fountain pens. These new roller ball and fountain pens have the same, great features as the original versions but, also features a new stylish domed cap finial, all metal nib and sections and a classic designed center band.
FEATURES:
Cap screws on barrel with a fast 1/4 turn (Quad Thread).
Cap posts on end of barrel with a fast 1/4 turn
Requires no cap adjustment or readjustment
Tight seal to keep ink fresh
This is a true "professional" looking and functioning pen! The new flat top is also available in a Roller ball pen or Ballpoint version.
The "new series" does have two tubes with equal diameter (.363ish"). It is constructed with a threaded centerband, so there is no plastic insert--metal on metal threads. In short, it is designed as many have requested on the "design our own" thread.
May want to try it, if it catches on, we could get additional plating options. Right now, it is chrome or Upgrade gold (cobalt alloy).
Feedback is welcome!!!
Ed
Dan Masshardt
Member
Yes. It's not bad. The thinnest roller / fountain I've made yet.
You need to cut a tenon on cap tube.
It has metal in metal threads so you need to watch out because it can loosten itself easily.
You need to cut a tenon on cap tube.
It has metal in metal threads so you need to watch out because it can loosten itself easily.
3/8th might work Tony.
---------decimal----millimeter
3/8 ----- .3750-----9.5250
V ------- .3770-----9.5758
Only 2 thousandths difference there.
Last edited:
ed4copies
Local Chapter Manager
This is what the instructions say, also!
In reality, you need to part OFF part of the lower portion of the upper tube. Right to the brass tube. A "tenon" would require leaving some material on and making the tenon the right size to fit the mortise---there is talent involved!! Taking off material, right down to the brass tube is pretty simple.
Don't mean to be argumentative, just clarify, "This ain't rocket science!!"
I Thought at $3.00 less than the Baron RB for Chrome that this must be a little smaller pen or a real price break through.
You don't really need to buy letter-size drill bits. You can use the closest -sized fractional drill bit using this chart. I usually prefer to go a little under-sized from the letter size specified, if that is practical (ie not more than 5 thou under)
.
Drill Size Conversion Table
.
.
Dan Masshardt
Member
yea. Same procedure just no measuring diameter. Good qualification. !
I have been wanting to try the ballpoint just haven't been able to get any yet...... looks like a great style pen for me....
brownsfn2
Member
Funny. I was thinking that would be a fun one to try. Then I look at Ed's post and realize I already have a Series 2000 but have never used it. 
I like the idea of a skinnier screw cap pen though. The Jr and Triton is great but some say they are too big.
I like the idea of a skinnier screw cap pen though. The Jr and Triton is great but some say they are too big.
keithbyrd
Member
I have made a few of these - they are a nice pen but as Dan stated - the metal to metal threads can come loose easily.
And I always thought plastic threads were a way to keep the cost of the kit down. Other, more experience turners, had the same opinion about metal threads loosening easily. I guess the best as far as threading is to thread your own on PR or Alumilite (?). Well, no need for me to go down that path then. Thanks again!
In the case of the Jr Gent 1 at least, the plastic threads were introduced primarily because the metal on metal threads were causing the plating on the male threads to wear prematurely and show the brass substrate. That probably also applied to the Baron also. The cost of the metal inserts is so low that changing them to plastic saves very little in kit costs. Caps coming loose might also have been a consideration in some of the styles.
Last edited:
Dan Masshardt
Member
Metal on plastic is the best configuration. The highest end kits use this configuration.
Look at the stainless kits. Great kits but the metal on metal is their biggest potential issue. I need to be a lot more deliberate capping them than a jr for example.
Look at the stainless kits. Great kits but the metal on metal is their biggest potential issue. I need to be a lot more deliberate capping them than a jr for example.