Anyone tried this for a CA finish?

[angboy]

I've struggled for years with my CA finish and often find that when I sand after applying the CA, I end up basically sanding off too much of the CA and don't have a finish left on the whole pen. Well recently I had this thought- since what I'm trying to sand off is ridges running around the pen, why not sand the other way, so that I'm actually sanding on the high points. So the last pen I did, I sanded by hand, with the pen still on the lathe but the lathe not on, and just using the sandpaper going from one bushing end to the other, if that makes sense. It seems to have worked, on this pen at least, I like how it came out, and there's still that CA gloss there. I'm wondering if other people do it this way or if people think there might be any issues with this?

 

[1080Wayne]

I sometimes do all my finish sanding lengthwise , off the lathe , by hand , but I take the ridges off first as you have been doing . If I sand through the finish in a place I just apply 3 or 4 more coats of thin CA , then re-sand .

Lengthwise sanding off lathe will allow you to do a better job , as you can look at the piece under different lighting conditions . Also , no worries about steel dust on the pen if you use steel bushings .

 

[BJohn]

How many coats of CA are you putting on ? I have not run into that problem. I mean that is what you should be doing, just getting the ridges or high spots off. That should not take to much sanding to accomplish that. Only way I would think you are having that issue is not enough coats or to aggressive of sand paper.

I use 6 coats and 600 girt to get the ridges out. Then repeat that and then micro mesh. and after that plastic polish. Great finish every time never a problem.

P.S. always go side to side on the finish sanding,

 

[manojd]

This is exactly how I do it. I give about 4 layers of thin CA without sanding in between. Once the CA is dry I sand it by hand lightly across the blank and then use higher grit paper to finish it. It then goes on the buffing wheel for a final gloss.

 

[StuartCovey]

Sounds like your not applying enough CA. If your having trouble sanding through the finish, simply apply more coats of CA than previously and then sand.

I usually do about 4 coats of thin CA and then about 5-6 coats of medium CA. After this I use a skew to take down the ridges and then buff with MM.

Good Luck!

 

[angboy]

I usually do about 2-3 thin CA coats and then 5-6 thick. I think I get enough CA on it, I know I'm just heavy handed with the sanding. I always see one more spot where that shininess seems to peek through and think it needs just a little more sanding and then end up doing too much. But I thought this way would help prevent that and it did seem to on the one pen I've tried it on, because I figured even if I got too aggressive, it wouldn't be nearly as dangerous as sanding with the lathe on. Glad to hear other people are doing this same thing with success!

 

[lorbay]

I am not sure why everyone is getting ridges?? are you putting it on with a plastic bag.??
I have seen that done before and that was what caused the ridges.
After my 10th coat of thin CA I go straight to the buffer.

Lin.

 

[Rodnall]

What grit sandpaper are you starting with?

 

[Dan Masshardt]

I'm Convinced that part of the trick is to get the ca on smooth.

There should not be much sanding to be done.

And it's totally foolish to start with a lower grit than what's needed. IMO.

 

[Fish30114]

I'm Convinced that part of the trick is to get the ca on smooth.

There should not be much sanding to be done.

And it's totally foolish to start with a lower grit than what's needed. IMO.

Certainly you must be right Dan, but what's the key to getting it on smooooth?

 

[StuartCovey]

I am not sure why everyone is getting ridges?? are you putting it on with a plastic bag.??
I have seen that done before and that was what caused the ridges.
After my 10th coat of thin CA I go straight to the buffer.

Lin.

I typically use a paper towel.

Certainly you must be right Dan, but what's the key to getting it on smooooth?

The only way I can get a smooth finish from applying the CA is by using all thin, which takes quite a few coats for me to get to the thickness that I prefer.

I'm sure I could go slower with the medium CA and get it nice and smooth, but when getting rid of the ridges is as simple as a few passes with the skew I don't see it worth the time to go slower (or do several more coats with thin) and have a finish ready immediately for sanding/buffing.

Just my preference,

 

[Dan Masshardt]

I use mostly thin.
If you use medium put a couple coats if thin over the medium.

If you have ridges, sand them down and then
put a couple coats of thin on smooth to end.

 

[ChinaDad]

I was having a similar problem with the ca I was using. It was thick. What was happening as it sets up the centrifugal force from he lathe spinning and the slow set time causes the ca to spin out. Even with activator the thick ca was not viscose enough to spread evenly. I tried some thin and it was amazing the difference it made.

I am new to this but this is what I observed when I tried it. it really made me want to give up on ca because I wound up refinishing the first 4 or 5 styluses I tried it on 3 to 4 times. The only way I could get it smooth and even without going back to bare wood was be turning it back down with skew.

Try using thin and see if it does not make the difference.

 

[Dan Masshardt]

Why would you want to use thick?

I completely understand using medium but IMO medium is plenty thick for a single coat.

I would never use thick.

 

[tgsean]

I only use thin CA, and it is a very smooth finish. I do sand back after 10 coats of thin CA with 800 grit, to remove any high points, with the lathe turned on. Very gently. Then apply another 10 coats of thin CA and repeat the 800 grit sanding. Then I wet sand with micromesh. This gives it a beautiful finish for me each time. I then buff with white diamond rouge, and lastly apply Renaissance microcrystalline wax, which gives it the finger print proof finish and beautiful sheen. Cheers

 

[siric]

I too was having nothing but issues with CA. Sometimes, I could apply CA and get a showroom finish. Other times, ridges and bumps and headaches.

About 2 weeks ago I was at my wits end and took to youtube and came across this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yjzXpD08ozw&list=UUhROARA52p4UzFA-_1S3LbQ

It's ok to get ridges!!! Phew, just a matter of taking your time to sand them down - I used to be too aggressive and then have to start the whole process over again.

Now, 3 coats of thin, 3 coats of medium, sand with 400, 600 and 800. Polish.

 

[Sylvanite]

Yes, I used to knock down CA ridges by sanding longitudinally, but I have since switched to removing them with a skew presented as a scraper.

 

[angboy]

I've been doing the thin then the thick and I'd try to start with a grit of sandpaper like maybe 400, but it always seemed to not get the ridges out, so I'd usually end up going back to something like 320 or even 220. It always seems to me like if I don't get it down to where there's no shininess left and it almost looks like the bare wood had just been finished being turned and not sanded at all, that then if I went to buffing it, I'd end up with lines where you could see where there were still ridges in the CA. I think if I used a skew, I'd most likely definitely end up turning off all of the CA. I do like the idea of trying just thin CA and try to just get it on enough to make a finish but without ridges, so I may give that a try as well. Clearly lots of ways work and it seems like it's a matter of finding what works for your particular hand and I've just struggled with that. Sometimes using my way I'd end up with a great finish, but it was always about a 50/50 chance that I'd end up sanding off too much CA in spots on the pen, and have to start over again.

 

[Lenny]

I seldom, if ever, need to use anything but the micro mesh pads after applying the CA. If I have gotten "bumps" of CA, usually on the ends of the blank, I just carefully clean them up with a sharp skew, cutting just the excess CA away not going down to the bare wood. Then apply a little more CA or just go on to the wet sanding with MM.
When I first started doing CA I was applying it to a paper towel ... now I drizzle it over the blank and quickly spread it smooth with a folded up paper towel from underneath, a couple of passes back and forth. Takes about 2 seconds. A few coats of thin, then more of medium. Accelerator as needed to keep things going.

 

[angboy]

So are people applying the CA with the lathe turning or not? I've been doing it with the lathe set on the slowest speed, but especially with the medium CA, that seems to really build up the ridges. So do you do it with the lathe off and just spread really quick?

 

[plano_harry]

CA is always applied with the lathe running - (about 300 rpm for me). I used to waste a lot of time trying to sand down ridges and recoating because I sanded through. When I switched to 50 CPS thin, that problem went away. It goes on so smoothly, I go straight to wet 600 and only sand enough to get rid of any shiny spots, and then on up with MM or buff. I put a full description in the library.

So are people applying the CA with the lathe turning or not? I've been doing it with the lathe set on the slowest speed, but especially with the medium CA, that seems to really build up the ridges. So do you do it with the lathe off and just spread really quick?

 

[hobo]

After numerous different methods of applying ca I now use 2-3 drops of blo and then 2-3 drops of thin ca dripped onto this applied with a paper towel with the lathe spinning at approx 1200 rpm. Apply 10 coats wait ten minutes apply further 10 coats. Leave overnight to cure then blanks are ready for polishing with t-cut and carnuba wax, no sanding or no use of skew to remove ridges is required as blo ensures that the thin ca is spread evenly. OK the downside is it does not give instant results as needs to be left overnight to cure but I find that is more predicable than using accelerator with its inherent risk of white spots. Applying 20 coats of ca/blo takes approx 20 minutes including 10 minute wait after 10 coats. Try it to see how you get on.

 

[StuartCovey]

So are people applying the CA with the lathe turning or not? I've been doing it with the lathe set on the slowest speed, but especially with the medium CA, that seems to really build up the ridges. So do you do it with the lathe off and just spread really quick?

I apply CA with the lathe running at about 1300 rpm. I find that going slower will actually produce more ridges. Especially with medium CA.

 

[butchf18a]

3-2-1 methodology is best officially approved. 3 coats thin, 2 coats medium, 1 coat thick, using accelerator only every other coat. Wait 24 hours, Repeat process with 3 medium, 2 thick, 1 thin, 1" bowl gouge to eliminate ridges. Put in freezer for an hour then repeat, Final series 3 thick, 2 thin, 1 medium, wet sand longitudinally using mineral oil. Final buff with Simonize car wax.

 

[angboy]

3-2-1 methodology is best officially approved. 3 coats thin, 2 coats medium, 1 coat thick, using accelerator only every other coat. Wait 24 hours, Repeat process with 3 medium, 2 thick, 1 thin, 1" bowl gouge to eliminate ridges. Put in freezer for an hour then repeat, Final series 3 thick, 2 thin, 1 medium, wet sand longitudinally using mineral oil. Final buff with Simonize car wax.

I'm curious- this is an approach I hadn't heard of before. So what does the putting it in the freezer do? I guess the cold temp affects the CA some how, but I'm curious how? And what do you use for the wet sanding with mineral oil? Something like abranet or just regular paper backed sandpaper dipped in mineral oil?

 

[hilltopper46]

3-2-1 methodology is best officially approved. 3 coats thin, 2 coats medium, 1 coat thick, using accelerator only every other coat. Wait 24 hours, Repeat process with 3 medium, 2 thick, 1 thin, 1" bowl gouge to eliminate ridges. Put in freezer for an hour then repeat, Final series 3 thick, 2 thin, 1 medium, wet sand longitudinally using mineral oil. Final buff with Simonize car wax.

Is this supposed to be a joke? Maybe I just don't get it.

 

[scoobydooo9r]

Hey Angela, I have the same issues with ridges and sand-through. I'm convinced that some people are just gifted to be able to apply the CA smooth, but I'm not one of them. I have seriously considered spraying the CA on with an airbrush. Still might try it out some day!

I have also noticed that after switching to between center bushings, my results have gotten quite a bit better. I think that my pen mandrel (or bushings) was slightly off and causing the blanks to wobble a bit. Guaranteed to burn through the CA in the high spots if the blank isn't running true.

 

[philipff]

CA finish; the easy way

I watched Barry Gross do his CA finish at a VA show and have followed his method ever since. He puts 3 coats of CA Medium- at very slow speed- -, each followed by acc. spray, and then a lite touch of sanding to take out high spots. ( I use 600 and then 1200 Wet & Dry) Then, the critical part; plastic polish and your CA finish come to a very nice shine. The best thing for me is that the wood still looks like wood. Philip

 

[snyiper]

Not sure what the freezer will do other than perhaps introduce moisture which is the same as accelerator. I have found with the CA finishes I do it greatly depends on the type of CA, I prefer the Glue found at Eds Exotics that was sold by Woden Wonders I believe. That just flat works the best for me and is always consistant....I do use BLO as well.

 

[Winemaker]

I sand length ways then I put on 6 coats of CA/BLO mixed