Anyone Ever experiment with Veneer Wrapped Pens?

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mikedealer

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years ago, before i was interested in turning etc.. i knew a guy who would take veneer ends and bad sheets, and make them strips (worked at a furniture factory or something).
He Wrapped the veneer around brass tubes, he used an alcohol based glue i believe, and soaked the veneer in alcohol for some flexibility in wrapping them, and would just wrap them using a bunch of rubber bands to keep air out. He would wrap the veneer 5-6 times around or more depending on thickness desired for the pen.

After they dried, he would put on lathe, make them flush to bushings, and they really looked great cause he used some exotic burls, and while they did have a line in them sort of where the overlap took place, once sanded and coated with CA glue, they looked phenomenal, and the veneer cost him nothing so he made great profits with them...

wondering if anyone has ever experimented with anything like this before and if they had any success.. was gonna try and order some cheap veneer and try myself..
 
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BRobbins629

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There are many uses of veneer for some unusual pen planks but seems like what you are describing is a lot of work when you could just use a normal pen blank.
 

mikedealer

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you could do some crazy inlay stuff with it on a bigger pen.. it may be a waste of time, but i think with the price of some veneers it would be cheaper than buying a burl block, it really didnt take long, the thing dried quickly and was cutting quickly. he had to let it rest for glue to cure before CA, thats about only holdback
 

jttheclockman

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The problem then is you have a seam and if you put a taper on the pen it could look real ugly. If you use kits that have the same size bushings on both ends of the blank it maybe OK. But I agree with so many exotic blanks out there it just not worth the trouble. Hey if you want to try give it a go and post your results. That is the objective of this site. experiment and share.
 

BSea

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I've done something similar. I used wood strips from a wooden model boat. But I clear cast over it rather than build it with multiple layers.
1_Pith_Pen_Steampunk_2014_Pen_2_small.jpg
 

BSea

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Me, too. I have the pleasure of seeing it every day. Bob sent that beauty to me in a PITH.
Thanks Brian. I may have to make a sister of this one for myself.

The good thing about this method is that you don't have to account for the contour issue since the veneer is glued directly to the tube.
 

low_48

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Without some really impressive treatment to burl veneer, I can't imagine it wrapping around a tube without it cracking, or shattering. There are specialty veneers that are micro thin and treated for flexibility. They are made to go through printers. But as mentioned, you just get a wood pen.
 
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I'm crazy I guess..

I have yet to make a pen of that quality, but I don't think I could let it go! I have so many carry pens now that it is ridiculous...its like letting one of the family go whn I sell one....lol!:embarrassed:



I've done something similar. I used wood strips from a wooden model boat. But I clear cast over it rather than build it with multiple layers.
1_Pith_Pen_Steampunk_2014_Pen_2_small.jpg
 

BSea

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Me, too. I have the pleasure of seeing it every day. Bob sent that beauty to me in a PITH.
Thanks Brian. I may have to make a sister of this one for myself.

The good thing about this method is that you don't have to account for the contour issue since the veneer is glued directly to the tube.
Actually, now that I remember what I did, the veneer is glued to walnut. It's a little more involved than what I posted earlier. Not difficult, but not just glueing strips to a tube either.

Phillip, if you don't have a pen of this quality, it's because you turn so many nice bowl, and lidded boxes. :wink:
 
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mark james

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As a fellow scuba diver... That pen is very nice Bob! Others may not notice the nuances, but the other divers/boat folks will... I'm jealous!
 

plantman

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The problem then is you have a seam and if you put a taper on the pen it could look real ugly. If you use kits that have the same size bushings on both ends of the blank it maybe OK. But I agree with so many exotic blanks out there it just not worth the trouble. Hey if you want to try give it a go and post your results. That is the objective of this site. experiment and share.

I agree with John, just not worth the effort with so many exotic blanks out there to be had !! However, I have used veneers in the making off some segmented pens. I single piece of veneer wrapped around a tube or blank is so small in area that you usually will not get anything outstanding to look at like a real blank will give you. Also, as mentioned, you are going to have that line in there somewhere. Using burls can hide the line, but they are very brittle and hard to work with when trying to make them conform to a round shape but could be used on a tapered shape with some work. I have used the edge banding or inlays used in veneering to make some unusual pens. You must soak any veneer you may want to use to keep it from cracking along the grain when bending. I will usually drill out a blank of wood several sizes larger than my tube or the turned blank I am using for a base, cut the blank lengthwise down the middle, lay my wet veneer in each half, insert my tube or the turned down barrel in the form, and clamp tightly. Let dry, trim, and glue it to your form or tube. If you use banding, you can trim the veneer down and completely hide your line in the design. Two things to watch out for. Don't let your banding soak to long, not all bandings are put together with waterproof glue. Once dry the banding or veneer will hold it's shape, but work very carefully and slowly. Jim S
 
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79spitfire

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If you had scads of veneer scraps around I would say, go for it and post the results. But if you have to pay for it.....
 
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