Any Ideas? (Pics posted: 3-29-11)

[ghostrider]

Any ideas?

I started out with the pickle jar stabilizing using Cabot Gloss Polyurthane (8010).

http://www.cabotstain.com/products/product/Oil-Polyurethane.html?productTypeName=Protective Top Coat

The blanks sunk to the bottom after about an hour and a half. Then I let them sit for probably at least a week. After turning them, I sanded to 12000 MM, and followed with the Fairchild method of CA and BLO. For some reason, The glue doesn't seem to want to take on some areas.

I also turned a set of blanks from the same piece of wood a week prior to this one using the same CA/BLO method, only the first set wasn't stabilized. It had the same problem with the CA glue not taking in some areas making the finish appear thin.

I'm using Hot Stuff Super "T".

The guy from Woodcraft suggested trying the CA without any kind of accelerant, so I'm going to try some of the thick CA and let it sit awhile between coats.

Any other ideas?






C

 

[KenV]

Fairchild = Fairfield???

Sounds like you are using thin -- I have better luck with CA using medium or thick to build a finish.

 

[penmaker1967]

how do u stabilize blanks using this product. any info would be helpful

 

[ghostrider]

Fairchild = Fairfield???

Sounds like you are using thin -- I have better luck with CA using medium or thick to build a finish.

Correct on the Fairfield. Sorry.

Using medium after initial coat of thin using the method that Russ Fairfield shows in the video in the library.

 

[ghostrider]

how do u stabilize blanks using this product. any info would be helpful

http://content.penturners.org/articles/2004/polyurethane1.pdf

 

[patmurris]

For some reason, The glue doesn't seem to want to take on some areas... It had the same problem with the CA glue not taking in some areas making the finish appear thin.

I had similar issues with my first attempts at a CA finish. In my case, i wasn't putting enough glue at each pass and it would all go at the end where i start the application and leave the other end almost bare. I would suggest you use a little more CA and alternate the application from one end then the other end of the barrel. Keep in mind a good portion of the glue will go and stay in the paper applicator. I've heard some use the plastic bags from the kit in place of paper - that saves a lot of CA i imagine.

 

[bitshird]

Also try spreading the CA with the back of some used sand paper, the CA won't soak in, and evaporate quickly, it allows you to move a small puddle of CA from end to end on a blank, Plus you get far mor CA on the blank and it doesn;t get absorbed by the paper towel, . Be sure to start with a small drop of CA because it will take a while for it to dry and you can also get a good level coat of CA on the wood. the plastic bags also work OK but if you cut the end of the sandpaper square you can put the CA exactly where you need it. Best to do this between centers, No bushings, it will also seal the ends of your barrels.

 

[MorganGrafixx]

Denatured Alcohol before CA. An oily wood will contain oil deep within itself that will seep out once an external heat source is applied (i.e. drilling, turning, sanding, and most of all the rapid curing of the CA glue produces LOTS of heat during the chemical reaction). Just for fun so you can see a severe case of what I'm talking about, take a piece of Ebony (that you don't plan to turn) and throw that bad boy in a 450 degree oven, turn on the inside oven light, and sit back and watch the magic happen. After about 2 minutes, you'll start to see little shiny spots form on the outside. That wood isn't sweating, it's seeping oil. CA glue (brand is not important as Cyano Acrylate is a chemical.......hence CA.....no matter what the logo is on the outside) will not stick to oil in the same manner it will stick to dry wood. So hitting the blank with some denatured alcohol before you apply your CA will dry out most of the oil. Hope this helps!

 

[MorganGrafixx]

Also try spreading the CA with the back of some used sand paper, the CA won't soak in, and evaporate quickly, it allows you to move a small puddle of CA from end to end on a blank, Plus you get far mor CA on the blank and it doesn;t get absorbed by the paper towel, . Be sure to start with a small drop of CA because it will take a while for it to dry and you can also get a good level coat of CA on the wood. the plastic bags also work OK but if you cut the end of the sandpaper square you can put the CA exactly where you need it. Best to do this between centers, No bushings, it will also seal the ends of your barrels.

I use wax paper for spreading my CA (thick). Works wonders.