Antler

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Old Griz

Passed Away Oct 4, 2013
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Scored some beautiful antler from Bill (ilikewood).. now what do I need to know to make it into some nice pens.. I have already figured out cut lines to get the most out of the antlers..
Is there anything I need to watch out for drilling it... and once it is drilled and mounted on the mandrel is it easy to cut the hard outer shell with normal tools.. I usually use a skew with a planing cut to round out my blanks...
Also has anyone combined antler with ebony and what glue have you used to join them... I have some gorgeous jet black ebony that I think would look great as a top cap on some antler and allow be to save some of the short pieces that might not make a pen..
 
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Efletche

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I just finished making 4; two from deer antler, one from antelope and some other creature. The antler smells a bit when you cut it on the bandsaw. Because it is a protein, wear a mask.
I used titebond adhesive from PSI. I read where it is better for gluing to the brass tubes than CA. I let mine cure overnight.
My first pen cracked; I believe becasue I continued to shape it without stopping. The others, I periodically stopped, added CA to fill the pores and continued to shape. I had no problems with these. I sanded the same as a wood pen and also used the same finish. I used CA glue to bond the band to the antler. Took a few seconds longer than it does on wood.

Good luck with the antler. I think they come out really great.
 

PenWorks

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Have a good drill jig when drilling, because these baby's are not to straight. Drill slow and cool your bit as they have a tendancy to heat up and crack. I use gorilla glue for all the tube gluing and CA glue for putting on the bands. I like to turn mine lumpy if the antler lets you rather than completely round and smooth. It gives it the antler look. Good Luck
 
G

Guest

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From experience I have found it is best to get at least a right angle on one side of the blank.
Most of the antlers have a curve or a taper to them.I lay the horn down and with a tube from the kit I try to get a straight line long enough for each section of the pen I am going to make.I mark a line on the antler with a pencil with a 90 * to what I want the end to be in reference to the center of the antler ,not necessarily right angle to the side of the antler itself.
If the antler has a curve, this is the side I hit with the sander first to get a flat surface.I rotate it 90 * and hit another side giving me a right angle.From here it goes to the bandsaw and I square up and end, rip it, then cut to length.
Repeat the same for the other blank.
If the antlers are big enough around I will see if I can rip it into two lengths to get another blank from it.
I use a home made drilling jig in a machinists vice.Sometimes it helps to position the bushing of the kit on the end to get an idea where the center will be.
I have had no trouble drilling white tail dear antlers both sheds and from the processor.
I have done some pens from half decomposed antlers and the colors were outstanding!
It helps to run some thin CA in the hole after drilling then clean it out with the drill bit after it hardens.
I glue the tubes in with thick CA and no problems.
The larger diameter horns don't pose a problem but when I get to the smaller ones I call it diamond cutting.
It's amazing how much gets wasted while turning.
The antler turns easily I enjoy turning and finishing it more than some woods.(easier than corn cob)
send me an e-mail if you have any questions.
 

Scott

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The worst problem I have with antler is drilling. But I've found a way to make that better. I mount the section of antler I want to turn between centers - you know, a drive center and a live center! Then I turn the antler at slow speed. As it rotates you can see where the solid part will be, the part you want to drill through and not come out the side of the blank. You can adjust the blank between centers until you see this solid part as you want it. Then use a gouge or a skew to turn the blank kind of round. Turning it round like this will make it easier for the drilling jig to hold onto it while you drill, will hold it straight, and you know where to start drilling because the mark from the point of the center is still there.

Scott.
 
G

Guest

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Scott-
I have thought of that,how long are the antlers you are turning?
What size drive center/live center?All I have is what came with my JET mini lathe and have not done too much with them.
Also using the method you described wouldn't you have to turn a perfect cylinder?Just wondering.
 

Chips n dust

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I recommend soaking the antler in water for 12 to 15 hrs before you turn it. I have never had a problem drilling or turning after soaking them. Dry finished to 6000 grit and the antler looked like marble, sold it two days later.[:D]
Trevor

A day without sawdust is like a day without sunshine.
 

Scott

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Eagle - My cylinders are anything but perfect! ;-) Often times when I pre-turn antler this way it is just to knock the worst corners off. Often you want to leave a little "bark" on the antler. So no it doesn't end up being a perfect cylinder. It just rounds it a bit so it is easier to hold in the drilling vise. The drives that come with your Jet are just fine for this. This is considered rough turning, so don't get too worried about it!

Trevor - Soaking the antler is an interesting idea! I bet that would make it little easier to deal with.

Scott.
 
G

Guest

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I've seen where water buffalo antler are reccomended for soaking but I have never even thought of a need to for white tail deer
 
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