Another lesson learned...

[Warren White]

...so many lessons; so little time.

I had a crack in my first acrylic pen during assembly today. I learned from it, so it isn't a total waste. However, it was a beautiful acrylic and it was a bummer.

The pen is a CSUSA Apprentice Fancy Slimline, so there isn't a lot of 'meat' covering the tube once it is turned. The blank cracked when I pressed the mechanism into the bottom of the pen. I did note that it started a little out of center, but I readjusted the pen and went ahead.

Now, the lesson I learned (other than the obvious one to be more careful) was that the brass tube had a burr on it following my squaring up the blank with Rick Herrell's offset jig. This is in NO WAY a reflection on Mr. Herrell's excellent jig. I love it! However, probably because of the grit of the sanding pad I am using (180 grit), there was a burr left on the brass tube. On my next pen, I used an Exacto blade to clean that up, and the pen assembly went fine.

I have sent a PM to Mr. Herrell asking what grit he recommends. I would be interested in anyone else chiming in as well.

So, if I have saved anyone the aggravation I went through, that is another positive outcome.

Thanks again for a great forum!

 

[dtswebb]

A better way to remove any possible burr is to purchase a chamfering tool that is reloaders use. I purchased a chamfering tool several years ago and use it on all brass tubes. The chamfering tools are not expensive and I purchased mine at a local Bass Pro Shop.

 

[ChrisN]

I got a pipe deburring tool from HF that I use for all of my tube deburring needs.

Edit: a link to the tool I have.

 

[flyitfast]

I got a pipe deburring tool from HF that I use for all of my tube deburring needs.

Edit: a link to the tool I have.

I have used the same one for several years and it is one of my favorite tools. They are cheap enough that I have given many of them to fellow turners. Never had any obstructions since using it. Parts go into the tubes much easier and straighter.
Gordon

 

[Dale Allen]

180 grit is really aggressive in that application.
I use a worn out 220 or a 400 grit, by hand on a bar of aluminum with a centering peg.
Then I use a small pocket knife and chamfer the ID.

 

[TimS124]

The big box stores (as well as Amazon, etc) sell an alternate debarring tool aimed for pipe work...works great one brass, plastics, etc. Here's one example: HDX Deburring Tool-HDX090 - The Home Depot

 

[CrimsonKeel]

I also use an exacto knife to scrape out any glue that creeps into the tube. cracked a few before i figured out that little tidbit

 

[Ted iin Michigan]

CrimsonKeel beat me to a real good point. Best practice is to "seal" the ends prior to glue up to prevent glue buildup which can cause the cracking you describe. There are a number of materials used for this - I use modeling clay. Roll it out into a flat sheet (1/8") and then press the ends into it.

Couple other things - first, when you're pressing in, go with firm, steady pressure (no quick shocks). Second, know that different materials can take more "stretch" than others. Most woods have some "give", Tru-Stone doesn't. And different kits can require more care in assembly than others. A good practice is to do a light test fit before you get started.

The whole assembly thing can be a breeze or a nightmare. Some knowledge and up front work can help limit the nightmares.

Also, thanks for the tip on the deburring tool. I've been using a small pocket knife. Works ok but always looking for a better way.

 

[Chromey]

I also use a deburring tool like the ones pictured, mine is 20+ years old and I used it in HVAC for may years. The ones now have a plastic sleeve like that HF one, mine is metal and much heavier duty.

 

[Tom T]

HVAC me to. Still working. I have used a debarring tool on pipe and all. But silly me never thought to use it on a pen. Makes me wonder how sharp I am. Brass tub, is just a kind of pipe. The IAP rocks. You Guys and Gals are great.