Another cartridge pen????

[jttheclockman]

You all are probably tired of reading my questions but the more I get into this pen turning stuff the more questions come up. For those that do cartridge pens and use real bullets for nibs, the safety thing came up. Do you use bullets with lead in them or do you use all copper bullets??? Is there a safety element to me the maker and /or to the consumer who buys them.??? I plan on just drilling them to the specs of the refills.

If you use solid copper bullets where do you get them and what cat. number are they for a 308??? Do they have a boattail and is there more of a learning curve with them???

Thanks all for the replys and I really mean it. You all have been a great help.

 

[gwilki]

John: I use lead bullets and I used to drill them out. Now, I melt the lead out so that there is almost nothing left in there. I started melting when a potential customer balked at having any lead in the bullet. The lead does not get hot enough when melting to produce the fumes that are toxic. I do wear a mask though, just in case.

 

[fbiv1]

How do you repolish the bullets after you melt the lead out. I used bullets with a lead tip and boat tail. the lead melted out well but I did oxidize some of the copper casing. I used 4-0 steel wool which polished the bullet well but holding the bullet with out scratching the bullet I could not do. Appreciate the info.

 

[Packrat]

Barnes make a solid copper bullet, the X bullet and can be found in midway usa catlog in 308 cal.

 

[jttheclockman]

Thanks for that info and I have just ordered some.

 

[rherrell]

How do you repolish the bullets after you melt the lead out. I used bullets with a lead tip and boat tail. the lead melted out well but I did oxidize some of the copper casing. I used 4-0 steel wool which polished the bullet well but holding the bullet with out scratching the bullet I could not do. Appreciate the info.

I melt the lead out also. After I melt I put the bullet in my Beall chuck and sand it with 600 grit W/D paper used dry. Then I polish it on the same buffing wheel that I use to polish the casings.

 

[jttheclockman]

Rick

I have been following your tutorials as you know because they are well done. Can you explain your method of melting the lead and also do you make a holding device for polishing the bullets or do you do this after they are inserted in the cartridge. Thanks for all your help.

I am still confused why people would worry about the lead in the bullet because nowhere is it exposed to them. It is not going to eat through the copper. I think we as makers would have to worry more because we are handling them and drilling and melting. I guess I am missing something.

The ones that use the all copper bullets do you see any major difference in appearance between all copper and copper jacketed bullets???

 

[Daniel]

John, I simply held the bullet with a pair of channel lock pliers, keeps the fingers farther from the flame. sat the torch on the bench so it stood on it's own and held the bullet in the flame until the lead melted and poured out. I had a metal can to catch the lead. watch for splattering hot lead (don't let it fall farther than necessary) usually the lead would melt in two steps. first the lead in direct contact with the copper jacket would melt but a chunk of unmelted lead would still be in the bullet. a second or so later the heat would catch up with that and it would all melt. I polished the bullet while holding it in my collet chuck.

 

[rherrell]

John, I basically do the same as Daniel. Hold the bullet with pliers and melt with a propane torch into a metal can. I use hollow points but I don't melt it out from there. I drill a 5/64" hole in the tip first, turn it around and drill a hole with a #2 center bit big enough for the refill and then melt it out the back. I use a 1/4" collet(I use 25 cal. bullets) in my Beall chuck and put the bullet in, back first, just far enough to hold it. Then I sand it with 600 WD paper and then buff. I buff the casings and bullets separate and after I assemble them I buff again lightly. I use a clean rag and acetone to remove all the buffing residue prior to powdercoating.

 

[jttheclockman]

Thanks guys. That is pretty much what I had envisioned. Rick your last statement was a good one about cleaning with acetone before powdercoating. I just about got all the parts together to try this process and hopefully I can find some time this weekend to make a lazy susan and try this. I will need to practice on a few cartridges and figure out some racks and some holding things. I started polishing some cartridges on the buffing wheel and it sure does turn the wheel black. I guess that one will be disignated just for brass from now on.

 

[Sylvanite]

I use jacketed bullets (copper jacket over lead core) and drill them. After spending some time learning how, I can drill one out in as little as 2 minutes. I'm currently experimenting with solid copper bullets. Right now, they are more difficult for me to drill than lead, but I'm working on my technique.

Personally, I don't think there's a real hazard to drilling lead, nor to handling drilled-out jacketed bullets. I researched lead toxicity when I was casting lead bullets, and even went to the trouble to get my blood lead level tested. I was touching a lot more lead then than I ever will just drilling and never saw increased blood lead levels.

Nevertheless, some people are lead-shy. It should be much easier to sell a solid copper bullet (100% lead free) than one with lead inside (even traces after melting) to those customers.

Regards,
Eric