Aluminum blank

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Hello. I would like to try and make an all aluminum pen. For that I am in the market for aluminum rod of about 5/8" diameter. I have searched Amazon and several other places, and yes, there are a lot of options for that.
Now, while having a lot of options may be a good thing for somebody, it's totally confusing for me. What should I look for in the aluminum specs that indicate me I am purchasing a proper material? Or more specific, how do I know which is the hard and which the soft material?

Any input will be greatly appreciated.
TIA
 
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LagniappeRob

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Another vote for onlinemetals.com Great people. Never thought I'd be using them for penmaking though! They also sell Make! magazine subscriptions at discount. The only place I've ever seen it discounted.
 

jd99

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Yep what Haynie says.

Look for an industrial metal supply in your area, and go there and look throug the rem or drop pile.

Unless it's a production order for the machine shop, I always buy my material that way. (drops or rems)
 
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OK. I purchased 3 Aluminum 6061-T6 Round Rod, ASTM B221, 7/8" OD, 12" Length.

Now can somebody give me some guidelines about how to proceed with aluminum drilling, gluing and turning, please?
Do I need to take care of anything different than with turning hardwoods for example? What about finishing? Special drills or tools? Most appropriate glue? etc etc?

Appreciate all comments. Thanks in advance
 

PenMan1

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Why not try the $4 3 foot 5/8 round stock at your local Home Depot or Lowe's. I know, first hand, that this stock makes a pen just as pretty as the "pricey" stuff. You don't need "structural integrity" for a pen blank, so WHY pay extra for something that adds no benefit, is harder to cut and MUCH harder to polish to a mirror finish.

The aluminum and brass rods are in a small stand up bin with the 3 foot threaded rods, near the fasteners

Edit:
I think I remember the "cheap stuff" being much more accepting of clear, gloss powder coat, also.
 
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2011 from mcmaster carr. It turns better than 6061 imo.

Well... everyone above mentioned the 6061, not the 2011. I didn't have this info

Why not try the $4 3 foot 5/8 round stock at your local Home Depot or Lowe's. I know, first hand, that this stock makes a pen just as pretty as the "pricey" stuff. You don't need "structural integrity" for a pen blank, so WHY pay extra for something that adds no benefit, is harder to cut and MUCH harder to polish to a mirror finish.

The aluminum and brass rods are in a small stand up bin with the 3 foot threaded rods, near the fasteners

Edit:
I think I remember the "cheap stuff" being much more accepting of clear, gloss powder coat, also.

Because I did not have this information when I made my purchase. Will try this next time

Thank you both!
 
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Rick P

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The only thing I do diferently with aluminum so far is drill it on the lathe.......but then I am moving to doing most of my drilling on the lathe. Go slow use sharp tools and have fun.

Honestly I was rather surprised by how eaily it turns.
 

RSidetrack

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I actually make my own blanks out of aluminum cans. Melt them down, pour them, turn em. Good stuff and a great way to recycle the cans, just don't breathe the fumes :wink:


As for turning them - easy, very easy - as long as you keep your tools sharp. You will be able to tell a difference between sharp and dull.

Cutting sucks though, be very careful! I made the mistake of rushing one time and used my band saw instead of changing out my blade on my meiter. Nearly lost a finger and totally destroyed the blade. Wood saws work but you can dull them quickly and it is also not safe. Can also burn your fingers, the stuff heats up very quickly The best thing to use is a cut off blade, you can pick them up for like 10 bucks from your local hardware store for a table saw or meiter saw.
 

rherrell

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You bought the right stuff, 6061 is the way to go. The "cheap" stuff may polish up just fine but it's "gummy" and will give you fits when you thread it.
 

jzerger

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Now can somebody give me some guidelines about how to proceed with aluminum drilling, gluing and turning, please?
Do I need to take care of anything different than with turning hardwoods for example? What about finishing? Special drills or tools? Most appropriate glue? etc etc?

Appreciate all comments. Thanks in advance

Can someone offer some answers/suggestions for these questions from 07/03...I have the same ones.
Thanks,
john
 
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biednick

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If you can, avoid tubes. You can drill the hole to the same id as your tube and press parts straight in. As far a s drills, i recomend twist drills, brad point, ext. dont work. I drill pn the lathe, just easyer. You can use hss gouges and other tools, but sharpen a lot. I use carbide. For polish, I use autosol. It brings it to a nice, high polish after micro mesh. If you want a brushed finish, stop at about 3600 mm. If you need tubes, i rocomend epoxy. Your going to have a lot of razor sharp, hot strings of metal, so I wear a pair of leather gloves and hold the tool as far from the lathe as possible until the last few passes I take without gloves just like normal. Its not too difficult, just different from wood and acrylic.
 

Rick P

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I got a carbide tool and I just cant get the hang of turning with that little square bit.

I think the older fossil walrus ivory is actually harder on tools.
 
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JasonJ

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Has anybody tried to do a CA finish on aluminum? I've only done one aluminum pen and I wasn't pleased with the accumulation of scratches and surface blemishes after a month or so. Just curious.
 
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