Alabaster??

[doddman70]

I got some alabaster a few weeks ago and i'm getting anxious to turn it. I have read about using thin CA as you turn to help stabalize the cracks as you go. but i thought i had read somewhere here on the forum that someone said either epoxy or ca was better for gluing in the tube but can not find the post where i read that. does anyone know if it makes any difference when gluing in the tube if it is epoxy or ca? Thanks

 

[Chasper]

I've turned a few alabaster pens recently. Alabaster comes in various pale shades, the most common is white. No matter what the color but especially if it is white, it is transparent in small cross sections. That means that the tube needs to be painted. I don't have much success with painted tubes and CA so I use epoxy. I paint both tube and inside of blank with Testors, then I put a few drops of white paint in the epoxy mix. I haven't had any trouble with the painting, gluing or turning, but the finished turning is prone to chipping easily. I've finished them with several coats of thick CA and they still crumble a little at the ends of the turnings. At best they are desk pens, not pants pocket carrying pens. Just last night I disassembled an alabaster El Grande, saved the kit for another blank, and threw the alabaster tubes into the Lessons Learned box/

 

[follow3]

Hey Shane,

I have turned several Alabaster pens, I also have some blanks for sale. Here are the recommendations I usually send along with blanks when I ship them to someone. These are just my recommendations, based on what I have learned turning the blanks I sell, your blanks and turning experience may differ, but I hope this helps:

The blanks are $5.00 each + shipping. 4.60 for up to 6 blanks, or 8.95 for over 6 maybe 7 if I can squeeze them in.
They require extra cushion to keep them from breaking. Look in my photo album to see the colors of my blanks, they are pretty nice, I think.

As far as turning tips go:
1. They are softer than you think! Probably softer than anything you have ever turned. So, they require a light touch.

2. Drill them slow and carefully. Make sure to clear the flutes of the bit often. Use a spray bottle of water to cool the bit if you have to. If the Alabaster gets too hot they will crack.

3. Glue the tubes in with epoxy for a good hold. I don,t trust CA on this material because it soaks it up too much.

4. Stop turning proud of the bushings and finish bringing them down to size with sand paper. They turn sooo quick that you can zip down past the bushings in the blink of an eye.

5. Finish with CA. At least that is what I used. The first coat should be a heavy soaking coat of thin with the lathe off, to sort of stabilize it. The blank will soak that up and seal it so the next coats of medium will start to build.

6. Ream out the ends of the tubes a bit. When you press the parts into the tubes, they are so tight that they expand the tubes slightly. Wood and Acrylic can expand to make up for this, Alabaster cannot expand and will get hairline cracks that show up as white lines.

7. Wear a dust mask or use a dust collector. The dust that comes off the blanks when turning is very fine, almost like Talc. And… there is a good bit of it.

That's about it. It sounds pretty bad, but it really isn't hard. I try to list all the problems I know of, that doesn't mean you will experience every one of them. I messed up my first attempt, but nailed my second try and have made a few more since then.

Let me know if you want any. I do accept Paypal.