Advice Wood Fountain Pen

[chemfun]

I love the lathe. It has been about 2.5 years since I discovered the wood lathe.

I started with making a shaving brush. I then discovered I only needed one shaving brush and pens seemed like a logical way to support my habit.

I have made a few magnetic vertex and vertex supreme. I like them, but upon talking with Matt at penhabit, I would rather not waste my time on kits and make something more desirable (regardless of giving them away or just selling them at the same price as my vertex). I am, after all only trying to support the habit at the moment.

I started searching for wood kitless fountain pens, but mainly found acrylic kitless fountain pens. I like the look of acrylic when it's turned, but I don't like the smell or how it turns compared to wood. I LOVE the look and variation of the natural product.

Any advice on how to make a high quality wood fountain pen from "scratch?" I wouldn't mind using inserts for the barrel, cap and section if needed.

I don't currently have a metal lathe to make my own parts (nor do I yet have that skill). I have discovered the joy of fountain pens, and a small handful (three thus far) have enjoyed the fountain pens. I would like to learn how to make a stunning, high quality wood fountain pen.

 

[plantman]

My advice to you would be to try a few acrylic pens first !!! Acrylic is more forgiving than wood when it comes to running threads. In wood, you need to have a very tight grain, sharp tools, and some prier knowledge in taping woods. Practice a little first before moving on. The same taps and dies can be used on wood, acrlic or metal. Only didderence is skill of the craftsman. I have inclosed a few photos of a pen I had made out of a Banksia Pod blank and Ebonite, that has been stableized by casting in resin by one of our members. George Valentine (robutacion) from Australia. I would suggest a good stabelized blank to work with. Jim S

 

[chemfun]

Thank you Jim.

Not that I think your advice is bad, I really don't like turning acrylic. I don't ever foresee my competing with the acrylic experts on the forum. I would, rather practice quite some time just making wood threads if that is what is needed. I'm concerned that the threads wouldn't hold up to daily use, and thus wouldn't be considered a high quality pen.

 

[plantman]

Practice, practice, practice !!! Most people want to make a perfect pen the first time, it's not going to happen !! One tip I can pass on to you, would be, once you thread your wood add a coat of thin CA glue to the threads and retap. This will add some to the threads and make them last longer. Also when you buy your dies, purchase adjustable ones in order to make your fits better. If you are willing to put in the time, you will be justly rewarded. Good luck !!! Jim S

 

[Brooks803]

The type of wood you want to use will play a huge factor as well. I personally prefer a wood like Lignum Vitae for this type of work. I've made a few custom FP's with it so far. You want a wood that's very dense with a tight grain. With FP's you have to think about ink absorption if there's a leak. The density also helps with threading.

The biggest area of concern for an all wood pen would the be cap/body threads. That's where the wall thickness is the thinnest and where you put the most stress. I use either acrylic or ebonite for these threads just so I don't have to worry about it.