Advice needed on what I'm doing wrong

[ossaguy]

Hi All,

I tried turning a stabilzed Beech blank that looked really cool,but as I was turning it,it got real "wavy".In some places it's like the wood was so soft,and other places it was harder,so it looked awful.I turned it from square to round OK,but turning the blank down I failed on it.

I was taking light cuts.This same eaxct thing happened when I was turning a segmented blank I bought made up with about 6 different woods,all at like a 15% angle.That one was understandable,since the woods were all different in hardnesses,and at that angle,it seemed to me.

I see all you guys making great looking pens out of materials like this,so it must be do-able,I'd just like to know what I goofed up on.

I immediately turned a normal wood blank just right,so it's got to be my not knowing how to work with these types of woods.

Thanks for any thoughts!

Steve

 

[Timebandit]

Was it light and dark wood?I have several spalted Beech blanks (un-stabalized)and all the dark wood is super hard and all of the lighter spalted wood is real soft and will explode if you are not careful.Even if it was stabalized,beech is normally a really dense,hard wood,so the lighter wood will still be softer than the lighter wood.Same with spalted Maple.

Hope this helps.

 

[1080Wayne]

Sounds like the beech wasn`t totally stabilised . Be prepared to treat soft areas with thin CA whenever you encounter them , including the softer woods in a segmented blank .

 

[ed4copies]

Turn up the speed on your lathe, if possible.

What RPM are you using and what tool are you cutting with?

 

[ossaguy]

I was turning at #7,center sheave on my 46-460,which I'm guessing is around the 1700 rpm area?

I was using my roughing gouge,then the Spindlemaster.They were both sharp,and I used them both to turn the plain-wood pen afterwards no problem.

It was pretty much all 1 color,but I was shocked at how fast it turned down,and how soft it was.

So next time if it does it should I soak the low spots in CA,or is that once the low spots appear it's all over?

How about on the segmented blank? I'd sure like to try another one of those.

Thanks again,
Steve

 

[nativewooder]

Have turned very few "stabilized" blanks, but I have always been told that a properly "stabilized" blank will be of consistent hardness throughout the blank because the "stabilizer" is, in effect, what you are turning after the blank cures. This may not be correct, but if I were you, I would ask some questions, (diplomatically), of your supplier. And remember, anyone can make a mistake or have a bad day at any time.:wink:

 

[hunter-27]

I pretty much turn all pens no matter the material at about 3000. Works great most of the time and make sure there are no "small" blowouts on the rest. :biggrin:

 

[thewishman]

When I turn a blank that has those different densities, I find that sandpaper is my friend. Holding the strip of sandpaper by the ends and sanding with the middle almost always evens out those waves when no other tool works.

 

[ed4copies]

Turning speed is always "subjective".

The faster you spin the blank, the less effect different densities will have, BUT if you do apply too much pressure, the blank flies farther and hurts more when it hits you!!! (I am told, I would NEVER do such a thing)

And, yes stabilized wood should be uniform. But some wood will only get uniform with commercial stabilization.