Adhesives for metal to wood laminates???

[Jim Smith]

I would like to make a couple of segmented pens with laminated metal (either brass or aluminum) and wood. Can any of you who have done this susessfully please share what adhesive you find to be the most effective - metal to wood and metal to metal.

Thank you in advance for your assistance with this.

Jim Smith

 

[GouletPens]

Epoxy is a pretty save bet. Just make sure you rough up the metal with some steel wool or sandpaper prior to gluing to get a good mechanical bond.

 

[TellicoTurning]

Jim,
I've only done a couple of laminates..one with wood and one with antler and the metal was an aluminum 7-up can... I roughed the aluminum with a coarse grit sandpaper and used thick CA to glue the pieces together... haven't run into any problems on them YET.

 

[kirkfranks]

I have used epoxy on mine.
I was using aluminum but thicker that soda can.
Still would have trouble once in a while if drilling through the layers perpendicular to the aluminum because the pressure of the drill bit would push too hard to get through. Was still able to make it work by just gluing it back on after drilling.

 

[TribalRR]

I've used all viscosities of CA without a bit of trouble. I didn't even rough the surface of the aluminum on one blank, though I do recomend it.

 

[Tim'sTurnings]

I did some celtic crosses with wood and, copper, aluminum and brass. I also roughed up the surfaces of the metals. I started using thick CA but I didn't think I had enough time for assembly the way I was doing it. So I read on the forums about using 5 min. epoxy. I tried it and it came unglued in at least two joints from the heat of the drilling. I went back to CA and have made three more and have had no more problems with them coming apart. Just make sure you have a very sharp drill bit.

 

[rherrell]

I do alot of brass and wood and I use epoxy. I rough up both surfaces REAL GOOD with sandpaper AND a Dremel tool. I clamp with even pressure and let it sit overnight. One tip.... don't overheat the piece while sanding or turning or you could break the bond.

 

[leehljp]

I use epoxy also. But heat will take a toll on it if it gets too hot. A little patience is a virtue when drilling. If they are straight across laminates, drill the holes before adding them in as in this picture.

The advantage of epoxy is time for setting and clamping. CA did well for me early on, but if one spot suddenly latches on, I was stuck with no adjustment. I hated that when I had done one or two good laminates and then the third one messed it up by bonding too quickly.

 

[OldWrangler]

I have done several laminates using Gorilla Glue. Make sure to rough the metal parts. I have been using a cut up Altoids can. It is a good bit thicker than a coke can, cuts easy and makes a wider kerf. I sand it on my belt sander to get rid of any paint or coating.

To avoid heat when drilling, start with a smaller bit like 5 mm and work up to the size you need to drill. Once the brass tube is glued in it won't have any tendancy to separate but sharp tools and light cuts as always but more so with laminates or segmenting.

 

[VisExp]

I'm partial to 5 minute epoxy. I use the Devcon 5 minute epoxy from Wally World as it dries clear. Cures to full strength in an hour.

 

[Draken]

I use Weldbond with good success. If using soda cans, make sure you sand off all the paint on the outside and the plastic liner on the inside or you won't get a good bond. I use thin sheet aluminum that I got from a hobby store, bit thicker than soda cans and no paint/liner to worry about. I do still rough it up with some sand paper and let it sit in the vise overnight after gluing. I use Weldbond to glue in the tubes as well.

 

[Larry Gottlieb]

I have used polyurethane for the few metal to wood laminates that I have done.
Light sanding and clamp overnight.

Larry