acrylic pen turning

[owlelope]

I just turned my first acrylic pen. I turned it at a high speed and it seemed to work well at that speed. I tried using a scraper some but it didn't seem to do much. I used a skew towards the end and it worked okay but I was terribly nervous using it.

I turned the lathe speed to lowest setting and sanded it with 320, 400, 600 and 800 grit wet sandpaper using a pretty light touch. I then used the micromesh 1500 to 12000 grit.

I then did a major goof as I buffed it on my buffing wheel with diamond and I got some buffing marks. Is there any way to get rid of the buffing marks?

Another problem is that there are a couple places where there are 3 or 4 very small chips. I tried using the skew to take these out but it didn't do much. Is there anyway I can fix these chips?

owlelope

 

[ed4copies]

Welcome to the forum!!!!

Regarding the small chips, if they are small, they should have come out when you sanded. IF they are larger (deeper) than you sanded, CA will fill, but that depends on the color of the blank (looks, not mechanics - it WILL work, may not LOOK good).

Buffing wheel question has me stumped. How can you get marks from buffing with diamond?? Tripoli, maybe, which will come off when you buff with diamond.

More info please (Pic would be REAL helpful)

 

[mick]

A good sharp skew should have taken the chips right out. It's my tool of choice and If properly used I never start sanding with anything less than 600 grit. Control is a big issue with a skew. You need to get the tool rest in as close as possible and using what I guess would be called a shearing cut take the blank down to final dimensions. Proper technique and a sharp skew will produce an almost glassy appearance.
Everybody's got different ways of finishing but if you're sanding with MM to 12,000 IMO you shouldn't need buffing....especially if wet sanding.

 

[dalemcginnis]

I buff all my acrylics and never had a problem.

 

[thewishman]

Rod, some acrylic chips can be fixed. I use sanding dust to fill in the chip and add just a drop thin CA, careful not to float all of the dust out. Then I turn the rough area down and inspect. If there are still small chip holes, I sand the acrylic with 320 or 400 grit sandpaper, get some dust on the paper and put a drop of thin CA on the dust. I work the dust and CA into the blank just like a sanding sealer for wood.

This method sounds crazy, but it works on poly resins and inlace acrylester (haven't tried it on Alumilite). Usually it blends so well that I cannot find the repaired spots.

 

[ed4copies]

OF course Chris (Wishman) wears REAL T:glasses-nerdy:HICK glas:glasses-nerdy:ses.:rotfl::rotfl::rotfl:

 

[willardz]

I do furniture repair so if I have small chips on pens I use a burn in knife and lacquer stick that matches pretty close ,and fill it that way. Have done it on a couple pens and it has turned out great.

 

[thewishman]

OF course Chris (Wishman) wears REAL T:glasses-nerdy:HICK glas:glasses-nerdy:ses.:rotfl::rotfl::rotfl:

Oh no I don't. Wait, yes I do.

"All the better to see you with, my dear."

 

[ngeb528]

I wet sand through 8000mm and then just apply a plastic polish. Works great that way. Plus it helps clean the mm.

 

[GouletPens]

I need to see pics of this buffing problem. I buff hundreds of these suckers and have never had what you're describing. Also, the chips I think you're describing sound like a result of applying too much pressure while turning...a typical mistake when doing your first acrylics. Too much pressure is probably caused by dull tools, the other common mistake. Unless you have high quality HSS chisels, you will have to sharpen your tools at least once every pen that you do, if not more depending on the tool you're working with. Keep your tools sharp, take light touches, and you'll avoid those chips. You'll get better with practice.