acrylic help needed

Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad
Status
Not open for further replies.

nwcatman

Member
Joined
Sep 30, 2007
Messages
298
Location
south texas
i'm tired of losing blanks! i use s roughing gouge for the whole turning operation. i get it sharp but still have to go super slow to avoid a catch or overheating or little "holes" in the blank. takes frikking forever to get it to size. and i dip the gouge in water frequently to cool the blank. seems to produce smoother shavings too. a wood pen goes fast and smooth but i (she) like the look of acrylics better. i would appreciate any suggestions! and yes, occassionally i use a skew but usually wind taking off too much w/it. thanks
 
Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad

wolftat

Product Reviews Manager
Joined
Aug 19, 2007
Messages
5,377
Location
Fairfield, CT, USA.
I use a gouge for everything and just keep the lathe fast and the tools sharp. The part that was the hardest for me was developing the ultralight touch that is needed for acrylics. If you have the chance, try working with alumalite, same finish but a lot easier to work with. I have found that I can get the same finish with my gouge or skew if I use a light steady touch. Good luck
 

DaveM

Member
Joined
Mar 2, 2007
Messages
136
Location
Houghton Lake, Michigan
I agree, I often use the skew, or a shallow spindle gouge. When I use the spindle gouge, I have it halfway on edge, tipped at 45 deg, and I am coming off of the beve, in a planing style cut. I try not to use a scraping cut with acrylics unless I am just touching down a corner at the edge of the bushing or something like that. I use to turn them slowly, now I crank the lathe speed way up and take very light cuts. Either way can work. Sometimes different plastics respond to different techniques. I usually knock the corners off with a file before I ever get to the lathe. This saves me from cracking a blank unexpectedly.

My most used tool with acrylics is the BIG Allan Lacer skew. I keep it sharp and happy, and it treats me right. I use the smaller one when space gets a bit tight, near the bushings. I usually turn between centers when possible, so sometimes the big one is like trying to turn a semi truck around in a driveway.


The main thing I have learned about the skew is to keep it wicked sharp, and take very light cuts. I usually hone them every blank. (I turn one at a time too, so this is two honings per pen. I use the big one for the main shaping, after bringing it to round with the gouge, and then I finish it with the smaller skew. If it is a tougher material, or I am making a small pen from a large blank, then I touch the tools to the hone again halfway through. If I am only using one skew, I will touch it once or twice during the turning.

The real trick for me, is to take light cuts, and use the bevel of the tool. If I get the edge of the tool too far down on the face of the blank, I start taking more off than I want to, and the tool wants to wander deeper into the blank. Then I have a low spot, and that usually means the end of the pen, and the start of the nasty language. For me, the skew needs to move across the tool rest, and blank smoothly. If I stop moving across, or if it takes more pressure than normal to move across the blank, that means I am starting to dig INTO the blank more than I want to, and that's where my low spots come from.


It takes some practice with the skew to get the hang of the planing cut, and how to ride the bevel. Then it takes a bit more practice to do that on an acrylic pen blank, but the end result is worth it. I had to go through a period where I resigned myself to the fact that I was going to spend more time per pen than I wanted to, but I was going to get it right, and not try to go too fast. Now, I am much quicker,but I still go pretty slowly for the last few passes.

Good luck.
Dave

(I hope my descriptions of the angles can help out a bit. If not, just look at Ed Davison's downloadable videos. He gets it right.)
 

nwcatman

Member
Joined
Sep 30, 2007
Messages
298
Location
south texas
thanks guys. thats not what i wanted to hear but since theres no fast easy way i guess i better get busy and learn to use a skew. thanks again!
 

follow3

Member
Joined
May 30, 2006
Messages
358
Location
Hampton, VA
Hey catman,

I turn 95% acrylic and about 5% wood, and I have never used a skew!

Like most people have stated, crank the speed up as high as possible.

My favorite tool is a cheap "continental" style spindle gouge that came in an 8 piece set from Harbor Freight for about 38.00 for the whole set. The set has 2 spindle gouges, a 3/4" and a 1". They are made from flat stock that has been forged, instead of most other gouges that are milled from round bar stock. I grind them to about 30 to 35 degrees. I re-sharpen for each pen. (i turn both halves at once)

Another thing to keep in mind is to turn between centers. If the blank is not stable, the cut will be rough. I use a mandrel from Woodcrafts ($9.99) that fits into my MT2 headstock, and bring the live center up to the tail end fairly tight.

After it is turned to shape, I start sanding "wet" with 120 all the way up through 12000 grit micro mesh.

Another tool to try if you are not comfortable with a skew is the Sorby, "spindle master" It will leave a skew quality finish without all the fuss of a skew.

The best thing to do is to just try different tools until you find the one that works for you. You wil know you have it right when you get long ribbons comming off the stock, and little or no chatter. (after it is round... of course)

Good luck,
Steve
 

ahoiberg

Member
Joined
Apr 10, 2007
Messages
1,763
Location
Ames, IA, USA.
i've successfully used a gouge to rough turn acrylics but always switch to a skew to do the finish detail. i'm not all that good with the skew, but like stated earlier, you can use it pretty easily as a scraper and that will get rid of those little holes that the gouge creates.

i'm starting to get to the point where all i'll use on acrylic is a skew. it seems to give you less chance of getting a nasty chunk with a gouge.
 

wdcav1952

Activities Manager Emeritus
Joined
Mar 18, 2004
Messages
8,955
Location
Montgomery, Pennsylvania, USA.
Our mantra in dental school was that you used what worked best in your hands. My experience has been that most new turners start off with the gouge. Then, through an often aggravating learning curve, they turn to the skew and learn how to use it for the smoother finish a skew will give the turner who "knows" his/her skew.
 

nwcatman

Member
Joined
Sep 30, 2007
Messages
298
Location
south texas
i watched the ed davidsons video on turning the sierra pen and that looks like the way to go. what kind of skew is he using? it looks like the RAFFAN KYRO SKEW CHISEL 1" that CSUS sells for $63.99, the rounded edge one. i believe in good quality tools but.............!!! is that the same or a similiar chisel?
 

barrels

Member
Joined
Apr 4, 2007
Messages
233
Location
Clarks Summit, PA, USA.
two things I have learned in turning acrylics is #1 hand and bory position on the tool is ery important. Hold the tool as close the the blank as possible and keep the handle very close to your body. #2 as stated I use a spindlemaster 3/4 (spinlde gouge)

good luck
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top Bottom