Acrylic finishing tips wanted please.

[woodscavenger]

I don't do many acrylics but when I do I seem to have problems sanding them. When I do a simple straight or curve shape I am OK. When I do a bead, cover, or other design element I am in trouble.

I use automotive to 1200 then MM to 12000. In the higher auto grades and the MM grades I end up creating a little gray streak on the blank that I usually seem to need to go back down one grit level and resand. So how to you people like Ed sand your coves and beads efficiently. Is there something like EEE for acrylic that simplifies things?

 

[JimGo]

Sorry, haven't tried beads and coves in my PR yet. I have used 0000 steel wood in some of the wood pens I've done with beads and coves.

Are you wet sanding or dry sanding the blanks when you get the streaks? I've done wet sanding (with water) exclusively, and always wipe down the blank between grits.

 

[knottyharry]

If you are picking up a gray streak, it sounds like you are burning the MM. Be sure to keep it moving all the time.
As for the EEE you can use it on Acrylics. And it does a good job. Just watch the heat buildup with the acrylics.
Then I use the Mylands friction polish to finish it.

 

[Thumbs]

I had the same problem today with Corian where the MM drags just a little too long on tighter beads and coves. Melts, leaving the striped effect; not the effect I was looking for. Some spots are also just a bit tougher to clean up then too! [B)]

Harry, do you need the Mylands on Acrylic? Does it give you a harder surface or help make it more scratch resistant?[?] Insurance?

 

[woodscavenger]

Where are you Ed? I need your input.

 

[ed4copies]

Which ed?
Plastic polish will remove the "streaks", which are really melted plastic. It takes a little time and patience. Get a rag or sponge pretty wet with polish, then move it quickly to avoid heat build up.

 

[YoYoSpin]

Ed # 2 here...There’s no question that you’re getting that micro mesh too hot, and transferring some of the abrasive material from the MM to your turning. If you insist on using MM, get it wet, slow your lathe down and apply less pressure.

My advice is ALWAYS wet sand all forms of plastic materials; dry sanding will leave very deep scratches and general nastiness. Start off with a 220 or so grit paper that’s been completely saturated in water and progressively increase the grit up to about 600. There's no need to sand further. At this point, I'll usually robustly Beall buff using the Tripoli and White Diamond wheels to remove fine scratches and polish...and that's it.

Other post-wet sanding finish methods will work as well, like wet micro mesh to 12,000 grit, the “Corian/Acrylic finishing kits, and several of the liquid scratch remover and polishing compounds like HUT’s, but my experience is that it’s very hard to maintain sharp features (like distinctive beads) using these methods.

 

[woodscavenger]

Your method sounds pretty simple. It looks like I now have an excuse to add plumbing to my shop.

 

[driften]

Originally posted by woodscavenger
<br />Your method sounds pretty simple. It looks like I now have an excuse to add plumbing to my shop.

Don't let me keep you from getting your plumbing, but all you need is a jar of water.

 

[woodscavenger]

Shhh, don't tell my wife. This gives me an excuse to rent a ditch-witch![]