Acrylic Buffing System after Novus?

[TattooedTurner]

Like many newbies, when I first got into making pens I bought a bunch of stuff I thought I needed but quickly learned I didn't. On a CA finish, is there any benefit to using PSI's acrylic buffing system (blue rouge) after Novus fine scratch remover? I haven't noticed a difference myself but I haven't exactly done a scientific study either. For that matter, does it make a difference on acrylic pens? My understanding is a CA finish is basically an acrylic finish on wood, so I would think the results would be the same for both. I've seen very few videos on YouTube where the maker does any additional buffing after using a plastic polish. I'm going to skip this final step if the consensus is nay.

 

[magpens]

I never apply anything on CA or acrylics after the Novus #2.
I am pretty fussy with the Novus ... 3 applications of #3 followed by 3 of #2.
Each application is hand-rubbed lengthwise with about 80-100 strokes of my hand and then 30-50 strokes of a soft cloth.

 

[qquake]

I use Meguiar's PlastX after Novus 3 and 2. It looks like it makes it a tiny bit shinier to me, but it may just be my imagination.

 

[TonyL]

You may try this....it is just another method..there are many:



There is also a copy in the IAP library.

 

[lhowell]

I use Meguiar's PlastX after Novus 3 and 2. It looks like it makes it a tiny bit shinier to me, but it may just be my imagination.

I second this because this is the method that has given me the best results! That is until I break down and get me a Beale Buffing System with Tripoli polish!

 

[TattooedTurner]

Thanks for the replies. I'm going to try PlastX after the Novus to see if it makes a difference.

 

[mecompco]

I gave up on polish after I got the buffing wheels. I don't even bother with the 12,000 MM any longer. Tripoli followed by White Diamond leaves a finish I think is really nice. Just what I do.

Regards,
Michael

 

[efrulla]

I use Dr. Kirks 3 step system on both my Acrylic pens and my CA finished pens. Am more than satisfied with the results.

 

[Ted iin Michigan]

It took me a couple years but I sand (wet) to 2000 then Novus 3 and 2 then I do the Beall wheels with Tripoli and white diamond. I'm thinking going from Novus 2 to Tripoli is backing up a bit but it seems to work and work well. I'm never tied down to one system and I'd switch in a minute to something better - just haven't been able to find anything better.

 

[TattooedTurner]

So now I'm thinking of dropping the blue and going from Novus 2 to White Diamond on the wheel. Or maybe two stage, blue rouge then WD. Or drop the blue in favor of Tripoli then WD. Decisions decisions... I think I'm more lost now than when I started this thread!

Seriously though, thanks everyone. This is exactly the info I was seeking.

 

[edstreet]

If you are using novus #3, or #2 for that matter, correctly then nothing is needed afterwards.

FYI plastX is a greatly weaker concentration than novus #3. You are wasting your time using it when you have novus #3 or #2. Also wasting time if you are using any product after it.

I have denominated many times how effective novus #3 is, how it can remove 400 grit scratches with ease in some cases.

There is a concept, it's called selective pressure. This works extremely effective, efficient and good with highly abrasive products such as novus and Abranet. Variation in the pressure makes a huge difference.

 

[edstreet]

Also I will go further and re-state that if you are using micromesh, liquids like novus and buffing then you are indeed over processingthe problem. What you have is a product problem and you need to settle one one, never two and definately never three systems.

 

[farmer]

Like many newbies, when I first got into making pens I bought a bunch of stuff I thought I needed but quickly learned I didn't. On a CA finish, is there any benefit to using PSI's acrylic buffing system (blue rouge) after Novus fine scratch remover? I haven't noticed a difference myself but I haven't exactly done a scientific study either. For that matter, does it make a difference on acrylic pens? My understanding is a CA finish is basically an acrylic finish on wood, so I would think the results would be the same for both. I've seen very few videos on YouTube where the maker does any additional buffing after using a plastic polish. I'm going to skip this final step if the consensus is nay.

Here is a answer you don't want to hear .

Personally I think you should re-evaluate the finish you are using.
To me CA finish feels like rubber or IMO soft ..

Press your thumb nail into the finish and see what happens , when I do it, you can clearly see where my thumb made a big dent because the CA finish is soft.

Really the finish just feels soft ... and scratches easy.

To be honest Pen makers are about the only group of people who normally use a CA finish...
A few cue makers use to use a CA finish but they have all died from the fumes ..... because they are that deadly ....
Other then that there is not any other group wood workers that I know of using CA as a finish .

Its really about a nice clear hard finish that will not shatter if the pen is dropped nor scratch easy and should feel non rubbery .

So my question is why use the stuff, when there are finishes on the market that are better ?

Just so everyone knows, there is a new finish on the market .
Out classes CA in every way.
Only issue is its fumes .

The finish is rock hard , clear and will not shatter .
Every cue maker that I know of is switching to it..

Then you could take your pens to a buffing wheel, $hit can the micro mesh
which no other professional wood works uses, or most has never heard of Micro mesh and get rid of a whole hand full of issue that are related to using CA.

Everyone in the wood business is switching to Solarez that is looking to get a deep glass like finish ..
https://vimeopro.com/wahoointernational/solarez/video/134341441

 

[Monty]

Really the finish just feels soft ... and scratches easy.

In over 10 years of using CA as a finish, I've never had a soft finish.

A few cue makers use to use a CA finish but they have all died from the fumes ..... because they are that deadly ....

Can you please elaborate and give your source for this statement? I've not read any MSDS that states the fumes are deadly.

Just so everyone knows, there is a new finish on the market .
Out classes CA in every way.
Only issue is its fumes .

So you're trading fumes from CA for fumes from this finish?

 

[edstreet]

CA fumes do cause allergy type reactions and it builds up over time. However I'm not aware of anyone dying from fumes. I am aware of one person falling into the cat at the manufacturing plant with an exposure suit and it ate through the suit before he was pulled out and he died but that is an Industrial accident.

Also the product mentioned is polyresin with a uv agent in it.

 

[farmer]

Deaths

CA fumes do cause allergy type reactions and it builds up over time. However I'm not aware of anyone dying from fumes. I am aware of one person falling into the cat at the manufacturing plant with an exposure suit and it ate through the suit before he was pulled out and he died but that is an Industrial accident.

Also the product mentioned is polyresin with a uv agent in it.

Terry Ziller and Kevin Varney both died from using CA ..Both well known Cue makers
Lung infections.

 

[farmer]

CA finish

Really the finish just feels soft ... and scratches easy.

In over 10 years of using CA as a finish, I've never had a soft finish.

A few cue makers use to use a CA finish but they have all died from the fumes ..... because they are that deadly ....

Can you please elaborate and give your source for this statement? I've not read any MSDS that states the fumes are deadly.

Just so everyone knows, there is a new finish on the market .
Out classes CA in every way.
Only issue is its fumes .

So you're trading fumes from CA for fumes from this finish?

Stick your thumb nail into the finish as hard as you can and see if it leaves a mark ..

Is there a chance that you just haven't worked with a hard finish yet or before like epoxy or Solarez .

I can tell the difference in the finish just by picking up the piece or touching it.
Least on the pieces I do .

The epoxy 105 207west systems doesn't have a scent or a strong scent like CA or the Solarez .
Actually the epoxy isn't noticeable in smell or scent .
Not really trading one finish for the other..
Just searching for the best hi gloss deep glass like finish, (perfection ) is what I am after.

I switched from CA because there are better products on the market.
That and the fact there isn't one wood working factory that uses CA as a finish .
Musical instrument factories , pool cue factories or pen making factories no factory uses CA as a finish ..
None of them use Micro mesh either... most have never heard of Micro mesh .

I want the best finish as possible and I warranty all my products that I make for life .
Actually I want the stuff I make handed down generations without ever having one issue .