Well, I would like also to add something in here, we sometimes develop certain techniques that, regardless if "orthodox" or "normal", seems to work for us 99% of the time. Sometimes we don't mind to talk about it, other times we do, some because they think they have discovered the "wheel" and want to keep it for themselves, which I call "greediness", and others, are most happy to share it around, and as much you may not agreed with, both options have its merits...!
I find it hilarious that, some people have so much trouble in admitting the use of something else to get the job done, apart from what we all would consider "normal" and within the "parameters/guidelines" of old workmanship tooling rules.
Particularly when it comes to the use of non-cutting tools to handle pen blanks, of any material and or nature. Removing the square corners prior to mounting the blank/barrel on the lathe as a precaution (well conceived one) to "sand" the blank to the final size to avoid catches, shattering, etc., etc., I've seen often people referring 'it' as the, 80 grit, coarse sanding, block sanding, rasp sanding, file sanding and another half a dozen of other names people use.
The principal of all these "ways" to get things done without risking to lose the blanks, are the same, some a little more effective than others but, they are all used for the very same reason/intention/purpose, need and I have no problem with, if that is what allows them to get the result they want.
While I have made this thought known, for a long time, I have also brought the attention to some of the problems using such techniques, not only the amount of time require, with some of them but, the inconsistent and in more times than not, the inevitable results of some of those approaches so, what are those problems...!
Sanding produces heat, the finer the grit, the worse it gets, some materials don't react too well with that sort of heat, some brass tubes glue-ups will not hold its adhesion, as the heat destroys it and off-course, it results in all the problems that follow.
And, the worse of all these results is, the out of round the barrel gets as a result. Even if you have a perfectly round and centered blank, but the time you get to final size, it will be all over the place, more noticeable at the bushing ends but also, throughout the entire barrel body. Again, some people think that is good enough and if you are making $20.00 pens, those buying them may not notice a thing but, somewhere in the handling/inspecting/admiring of that pen by others, the chances are, someone will point out the flaws and the poor workmanship.
Now, here is when things get "tricky", there is nothing wrong about people making $20 pens nor I am to criticise the reason why they make the $20 pens, and this is what I want to make very clear to everyone however, most of the time (as far as I'm aware of), they need to find a way to make them fast, and not spend all day working to make a $20 pen, right...???
So, you will find that, most of the turners using this "hand sanding" method, are the ones working with expensive and sometimes fragile blanks that, they simply can't afford to wrack/destroy the blank so, sure, they can spend all day taking their time the sand it bit by bit and adjust any out of rounds with some, "with the length" sanding on the high spots.
They may have the time and be most happy to take their time, to make sure a finished pen is what they endup with, and nothing else. Now, is anything wrong with this...??? absolutely not, they have made that choice based upon expensive failures from trying to be "technically correct" and within the "normal protocols" that some other turners, prefer to follow, and that is OK to me, also.
So, what in the hell, am I trying to say here...???
It is OK to use "sanding" to get your pens done however, if that is your choice (for whatever the reasons...!), you could achieve much faster, more accurate results, using the "Flap disc system"
http://www.penturners.org/forum/f30/blowouts-my-solution-110460/ in one of its fews variations.
Unsupported drilling can, very easily create very small cracks that are invisible to the naked eye, particularly on acrylics and Resifills, any blanks that has wood and resin (PR, Polyester, mainly) combinations, are very susceptible to these cracks or even separation of the resin to the wood, the results can be catastrophic when the blank is put in the lathe for turning...!.
Sure, alumalite is a much softer material to turn, PR by nature is a much harder and brittle material that makes turning a much more trickier job however, the PR hardness/brittleness, can be considerably controlled by the "maker" however, as a blank maker myself, I would be interested in create PR blanks that are as soft as any Alumilite ones.
There is not much to it, really, if you use 1/4 or less of Catalyst as per the MINIMUM factory recommendation, allow the molds to stay in the pressure pot for 4 days, allow the molds to be put aside in a cool place (never exposed to the sun) for at least 4 weeks, before you touch them, you wouldn't believe they were made with PR. Yes, I have done this as a test to make sure my thoughts were correct.
Now, is this a safe way to make soft PR pen blanks...??? think carefully, what would you think that would happen if the easy to turn pen you made, was all of a certain exposed to the hot sun...??? Yep, not a good result...!
OK so, and to wrap this up, I have nothing against normal cutting/turning tool, hell, I use them almost everyday however, if you experiencing problems turning a particular type of blank(s), use the alternative flap disk system as your best friend, if you prefer to learn out to handle those same blanks using traditional turning tools, get yourself some inexpensive pieces of the material you are having problems with, and practise, practise, if other can do it, so do you...!
Sometimes in life, is better to take a step back, use an alternative solution to get the situation resolved for the time been, regroup and try again...!
Did I mention that you need "sharp tools"...????:wink::biggrin:
Good luck,
Cheers
George
