Acrylester - Thoughts on this product?

[putnamm]

I typically buy my acrylic blanks from Woodcraft, just because their store is closer to my home. However, I was recently in a Rockler store and picked up what I thought were just another couple of acrylic pen blanks.

When I got home I noticed they had labels that said "Acrylester." Again, I didn't think anything of it; just assumed it's a different acrylic product.

I drilled both of these blanks like I have drilled every other acrylic blank previously. Note that I have never had an acrylic blank "blow out" on me; I'm batting 1.000 on drilling acrylic.

Both of these "Acrylester" blanks blew out on me, one of them pretty severely. It ended up with about a 3/4" divot in the bottom end.

I'm wondering what the prevailing wisdom is on this product. Is it considered better/worse than other products? Do you have any tips on how to work with it--not just drilling but also turning, sanding and finishing?

Thanks.
Mark

 

[TonyL]

Love it, but didn't start to enjoying consistent success until I started using HSS instead of carbide and ditched the barrel trimmer for a sanding jig, A third of my blanks are acrylace/inlace. Regardless of how opaque some may appear/be, I always paint the inside of the barrel. I als take mt time drilling the holes with high quality bits.

However, many do fine using carbide, barrel trimmers, etc...I just couldn't get consistent results (about 50% blew out while trimming or turning)

I think it is one of the best deals out there if one can turn it.

 

[putnamm]

By HSS vs. carbide you are referring to your turning tools, yes? In that case I've got it covered, as HSS is all I have!

Sounds like I'll need to invest in some paint, though...

 

[keithbyrd]

Drill using sharp bits and go slow- SLOW especially the last 1/2 inch!

 

[TonyL]

Some don't paint the barrels, some don't paint the tubes, some don't paint anything. Unless it is wood, I paint it. That is just me. Naturally the HSS has to be very sharp. I may sharpen by gouges and skews 4 to 6 times per barrel. Again...some turners may not doing any of this. What I am saying is you will probable get other very good advice. I am just one person. I finish it the same way I do AA blanks. It finishes beautifully. I am making an off white/pearl pen for a female client.

 

[TonyL]

Yes! as Keith states.

 

[Edgar]

+1 on Tony's advice re tools, technique & painting

I will say that I do use my carbide tools on Inlace Acrylester blanks, even thought that is not generally recommended. I use a different approach to the blank than for other types of acrylic or wood though & it works for me.

There are a number of threads on painting blanks & tubes. I simply use Krylon acrylic spray paints - about a 2 sec squirt into the drilled tube from each end and let it cure at least a day or two before gluing in the tube.

Here's a link to the Inlace Acrylester pen blank page at Woodturningz. There is a clickable link on that page to download a pdf with their recommended instructions for working with these blanks.

Inlace Acrylester Blanks - Woodturningz

 

[jjjaworski]

Just a note on the paint procedure:

I usually tint my epoxy as well as painting brass tubes and inside of the blanks. It takes no time to do and gives me an added cushion.

I will use a small mdf scrap to back up the end of the blank if I am concerned with chip-out as the drill bit exits. I drill on my lathe and take it easy and use soapy water to cool and lubricate on blanks like this.

It may take a bit extra time but my time isn't worth much, just ask a customer *G*

 

[putnamm]

use soapy water to cool and lubricate on blanks like this.

I'm curious how this works. Can you tell me how you do this?

 

[TonyL]

I use this instead of soapy water...not that soapy water is no good. I have the same can for two years and I spray it often:

http://www.amazon.com/10-75-Oz-Blad...d=1456429074&sr=8-5&keywords=bostik+bladecote

I think I paid $22 for it. Soapy water is less expensive.

 

[jjjaworski]

I add a little liquid soap to water in a spray bottle. I spray as I drill the hole.

I have seen some duck call makers use automatic transmission fluid as a lubricant when drilling the hole in an acrylic call blank.

 

[WoodAcrylicSupply]

Inlace Acrylester

This product is actually patented by WoodTurningz (WoodTurningz) and they are the only producer of that formulae. We are a reseller for them and carry all sizes from 5/8" shorts to 1"x1"x6".

It is a more brittle product than normal acrylic and does require a different turning approach. My grandson does all of my acrylester turning and using a bit faster speed on the lathe has no issue with the barrel trimmers except for the 7mm which is a design issue with any type of blank. He also drills using a lathe and not a drill press. I don't believe he has ever blown one by drilling or barrel turning. When turning he uses carbide only and sets the speed at least at 2400 rpm and never starts a cut from either end of the blank. Always start inbound of the end and work outwards. We have never had to use a lubricant and his turning blowout rate is approximately 10%.

These are the prettiest translucent blanks on the market and we sell 100's of them a week

Mike Kelly

Wood & Acrylic Supply – Wood & Acrylic Supply

 

[mecompco]

Very good advice above. I blew up a few before figuring them out.

Drill slow, keeping bit and blank cool. Don't even think about drilling all the way through the blank--drill just a bit long, then cut the blank off with the band saw.

I, too, paint blank, tube, and epoxy.

I turn everything at full speed, seems to work better.

Keep tools really sharp.

Sand at slow speed, polish at full speed.

That's my method, FWIW.

Regards,
Michael

 

[Wood Butcher]

All of the responses are good and worthy of your consideration. I live close to WoodTurningz and use a lot of the Inlace/Acrelester material. I suggest you call WoodTurningz (its toll free) and discuss the process with Fritz, Patrick or Ryan, the owner. They are super helpful and willing to assist.
WB

 

[TonyL]

If you have a Skype account, I will turn and finish one with you watching. In fact, I have to make an Atrax out of Acrylester/inlace.

 

[Ted iin Michigan]

Love the product. Gives an amazing finish when polished properly.
Agree with above advice, esp the comments on sharp bits. Want to add that it made a big change for me when I started drilling exclusively with twist drill bits (absolutely no Brad point bits).
I whined so much about this last year that LOML bought me a Drill Dr for Christmas :smile-big: which makes it EASY to keep those bits sharp.

 

[vakmere]

For me it wasn't the drilling it was the turning. Successful on a couple and fractured on the others. A little too much effort for something that brittle. Stopped buying them. IMO they don't really add anything looks wise to what I make so I opted out.

 

[WriteON]

Note that I have never had an acrylic blank "blow out" on me; I'm batting 1.000 on drilling acrylic.

Both of these "Acrylester" blanks blew out on me, one of them pretty severely. It ended up with about a 3/4" divot in the bottom end.

Once you get by the drilling it's the turning that bites you. I had these blow out repeatedly until I developed a touch and learned how to move like a snail with airbrakes and take gentle strikes. They are beautiful when finished. Not my favorite to work with.

 

[Pat Keefe]

I've had no problem with Acrylester. For all Acrylic pen blanks, I hand drill one end for a few millimeters (1/8") and then drill from the other end at about 300-400 rpm, clearing the hole every 10mm (3/8"). Yes it is slow, but I try to minimise any heat build up in any Acrylics, as I find the swarf can ream the opening to grossly oversized, if it melts to the drill bit upon extraction.

Turning wise, I run at 3900rpm for pens and bottle stoppers, sharp tools and light hands. Rough using a 32mm (1 1/4) spindle gouge and finish with 10mm (3/8) spindle gouge or either a 32mm or 12mm skew. Sanding is done with Abranet from 120 - 800 at 300rpm, then wet micro mesh to 12000 at 3900rpm.

You are trying to sculpt a flower petal, not build a bridge. :laugh:

 

[WriteON]

I've had no problem with Acrylester.

Nice pieces.

 

[Houtkop]

I have only turned 2 off cut pieces that I combined with some African Blackwood. I was lucky that I had all the chipping right at the start of the turn, and could get them turned out by the time I got down to size. I can only echo the other advice here, round the edges on a sander first, start turning in the middle and slow shallow cuts on the ends. The finished product is worth the extra effort.