Ackkkk!!!!!

[scoutharps]

OK guys, it's plese help out the newby again! I was working on a FP fro, PSI--the satin, with a tulip wood blank. As I was finishing the second tube, and of course was grinning like a possum, because this one was going to be REALLY pretty, disaster has struck. I cannot get the bushins out of the tube! AT all! This is I think the best one I've ever done, and I really don't want to mess it up! Superglue and BLO finish, 4 coats. Had the micrometer out and everything. And I've even managed to break the wood loose from the tube, Gorillia Glue no less! What do I do now?[?]

 

[rlharding]

Grip each bushing in .....pliers?.....and holding each bushing twist gently in opposite direction. Or, gently tap each bushing all the way around and then try and take them out. Gently sand each end of blank.

 

[Randy_]

Soaking in acetone should do the trick; but you will probably mess up the finish. (Pay attention to ventilation if you acetone as it is bad news for your lungs and liver.)CA will soften up at around 250° so you could try your wifes hair dryer or a propane torch. You could even turn on the kitchen stove and touch the bushing to the burner for a minute or so. Be sure to remove the hot bushing with a pair of pliers for safety.

 

[leehljp]

Get a HF punch set or a rod that is a tad smaller than the bushing's hole. Insert the rod and kind of skew it so that it does not go through the hole on the other end. Grip the blank well and tap the rod with a hammer to push one bushing out. Use a larger rod to get the other one out.

Let us know your results. I had one last winter that I had to do as Randy suggested. But usually a couple of taps with a hammer would suffice for me.

However, Since I went to the mandrelless method, I haven't used bushings during the finishing process.

 

[holmqer]

I use a utility knife in the seam between the bushing and blank to carefully cut through the CA. I sort of roll the knife edge along the seam rather then making a slice, I find that I can control the cut better this way.

Err on the side of running the knife across the bushing just slightly away from the blank if controlling the knife is a problem.

 

[randyrls]

Originally posted by scoutharps

I was working on a FP fro, PSI--the satin, with a tulip wood blank. As I was finishing the second tube, and of course was grinning like a possum, because this one was going to be REALLY pretty, disaster has struck. I cannot get the bushins out of the tube! AT all!

I had the same problem once, so my solution was to make a set of cone bushings from delrin. You could also use just scrap wood and wax the cones heavily. I used the knife blade to separate the bushing. Wax the bushings before mounting on lathe.will prevent recurrence.

I also found that the CA still gets on the end of the blank, and I have to scrap it smooth with an exacto.

 

[scoutharps]

Progress report: The bushings are off! And without messing up the wood! Combination of approches--cutting the ends, pushing and twisting. To prevent furthur gnashing of teeth: I do not have Ren Wax, will candle stubs work? And would that work on the metal bed of the lathe as a preventative thing against rust? Our basement is not just damp, sometimes it is a small creek in the rainy season. We keep appliances, etc on small platforms several inches high for this reason.

Next is to reglue the tube. I'm going to put masking tape over the finished wood first, this still has wonderful potential.

Thanks again guys!

 

[jcollazo]

candle wax or Johnson's Paste wax will work fine for the bushings and the bed.

 

[Fred]

Lightly sanding the lathe's bed and then waxing them will go a LONG ways to making things move much easier.

Glad to see you got the bushings removed and saved the wood. Good job!

 

[Draken]

I use light 3-in-1 oil and scotch bright pads to treat my lathe bed, especially after turning wet wood. I then use some bowling alley wax on them. Oh, and I also have a large dehumidifier in my basement shop that runs 24/7 to keep the humidity in check. I have it set to 35%.

 

[rincewind03060]

I have found that acetone fumes by themselves will work to remove most glues. Just put the glued object in a jar with something to raise it off the bottom and add a little acetone. Screw on the lid and wait a day or two. I've removed epoxied tool blades from handles with this technique and even freed up a pen transmission that had gotten a little CA dribbled into it. It seems, to me, less likely to cause collateral damage than soaking something in the stuff directly.

Be aware that the acetone fumes will probably darken the wood (which isn't necessarily a bad thing - the Arts & Crafts movement practically made a religion out of fumed oak).