Accrylic Shame

[Wooden_Pen_Turner_11]

Every time I turn accrylic, I get one or two deep lines that I just can't sand out. I use HSS cheapies, usually around 800 RPM. I found that from some other guy with the same lathe. Should I turn faster? Invest in some carbides? I'm not sure.

 

[Pens By Scott]

I've found with acrylics and PR blanks that carbides tend to leave a chippy surface. I use HSS, turning about 2800 rpm, and really light cuts works for me.

When you sand, do you use MM, and wet sand?

 

[Wooden_Pen_Turner_11]

This internet source I found said the max on my Grizzly is 2100.

I start sanding with something like 180 grit, then 280, then 400, and then I use the pads. After that, I just slap on a coat of HUT or some other plastic polish.

I haven't quite grasped the concept of CA finishing.

 

[Pens By Scott]

Ok, i've tried what you described with my first acrylics. I find that the 180 and 280 grits are too course for acrylics.

If you keep your tool sharp enough, you might find that you may only need to sand with 400, then on to MM (400 is pretty close to the 1500MM I believe)

 

[Pens By Scott]

Sorry, slight correction on my last post, 800 grit is closest to the 1500MM

 

[GrantH]

Can you tell a difference in how it turns where it chips out at? Quite frequently I get blanks for that go from a smooth ribbon cutting to a almost it just turns to dust particles. I haven't figure that out yet. I'm thinking it is trapped air, but these are production blanks, not home made.

Thats the only problem I find with acrylic.

 

[Wooden_Pen_Turner_11]

Alright, thanks.

So umm.. Not to sound like the 14 year old I am (for 5 more days), can you go into depth on wet sanding?

 

[hunter-27]

This internet source I found said the max on my Grizzly is 2100.

I start sanding with something like 180 grit, then 280, then 400, and then I use the pads. After that, I just slap on a coat of HUT or some other plastic polish.

I haven't quite grasped the concept of CA finishing.

180?

 

[Pens By Scott]

Ryan, just shot you a PM.

Grant,
I find Acrylics typically will ribbon, Poly Resin blanks will power, and ribbon a bit.

As for air pockets, i'm not so sure that this is the cause, why I say this, i've turned numerous clear cast resins with embedded objects, crystal clear, and no signs of air pockets.

The chip outs if find happen if you get too aggressive with the tools. Even the little bubbly ones.

 

[Brooks803]

Definitely avoid the heavier grit papers. I usually start with 320, then 400 and go up to 600. Then start wet sanding with MM. For that I get a little cup of cold water with a drop of dish soap in it. Lay something down to keep water from getting on your lathe to prevent rust. Sand through all the colored pads (In order!) and then hit it with some plastic polish. Remember to cross sand after each grit and you should see some improvements.

Oh and as far as turning speed....My lathe has 2 speeds. ON & OFF :biggrin: That's around 2800rpm. Drilling and sanding I slow way down.

 

[corian king]

It's really a matter of personal preference.But I have been turning a very long time and the best tool out there is a carbide tip.I have the "Rotondo" Made by a member on here.(Wood-Of-One-Kind) I think thats right but it's close.I even use it to turn aluminum and I can turn any material down to where there is very little sanding if any.But It's like I said it's really up to you on what works best.
JIM

 

[Haynie]

All I turn these days is acrylic with HSS cheapies. I sloppy wet sand starting starting at 320. Put a paper towel on your lathe bed and use wet dry sand paper. ALWAYS wipe off the previous paper's slurry before going to the next and sand at a very low speed with LOTS of water on the paper. Before the micro mesh I hit it with a rubbing compound and buff it off the see what I got. Then I go through all the colors and rubbing compound again followed by 3M finesse it.

 

[Wooden_Pen_Turner_11]

I feel like a fool. I guess wet sanding prevents the occasional burns of the pads that leave their color on the blank. Thanks for all of your help. I've dry sanded with MM on wood, and they've never been cleaned. :0

 

[hunter-27]

I feel like a fool. I guess wet sanding prevents the occasional burns of the pads that leave their color on the blank. Thanks for all of your help. I've dry sanded with MM on wood, and they've never been cleaned. :0

I do not wet sand with my MM, I also do not sand bare wood. Just an FYI. YMMV

 

[Jjartwood]

I couldn"t help adding my 2 cents I apologize in advance,when I turn plastic I usually
knock the corners down on my belt sander first,it tends not to beat my tool edge so much.
Turn at full speed with light touches,stop about 3/4 done and check the blank,if it's beat up
use a sanding block and aggressive paper to clean it up,then get a sponge and water,hold the wet sponge on the back side of the blank while you turn with a light touch,the water will cool and lube the blank and give you clean cuts,then wet sand with a block,a small piece of wood will do,320/400/600 than go to the MM series
good luck
Mark

 

[Pens By Scott]

I feel like a fool. I guess wet sanding prevents the occasional burns of the pads that leave their color on the blank. Thanks for all of your help. I've dry sanded with MM on wood, and they've never been cleaned. :0

Don't feel this way, as i'm sure, almost all of the turners on this forum would agree, there are many different ways to arrive at a great finished product! And that we've all had to "feel our way" to our own personal techniques.

Wet/Dry, too course/too fine - just different ways. It's great you're here asking the questions.

 

[PTsideshow]

I feel like a fool. I guess wet sanding prevents the occasional burns of the pads that leave their color on the blank. Thanks for all of your help. I've dry sanded with MM on wood, and they've never been cleaned. :0

Do not feel like a fool or anything else as Cicero said
"I am not ashamed to confess, I am ignorant of what I do not know"


You have to remember some of the most important things in life is,
"There is also no stupid question if you don't know"

"Knowledge is power"

"Learn at least one new thing each day and never stop learning"
:clown:

 

[gingerwood]

I'm going to echo what the others have said about not worrying about asking questions. None of us had these things implanted in our brains at birth. We all had to either ask or work it out by trial and error.

That said, I want to add that if you speed your lathe up for turning, be sure to slow it back down for sanding.

 

[InvisibleMan]

I've done the wet sanding with MM the past few after being shown the light, and I love it. Works great.

I usually try to finish cutting with a light pass with the skew to even things out. Then I hit the blank lightly with 400 grit paper until the entire blank is white, which means it is even with no ripples or dents. Cross sand, then hit it lightly with 600 paper, then cross sand again.

Then on to the wet MM series, cross sanding between every grit. So far, so good:biggrin:

I do the same with a CA finish.

 

[seamus7227]

Can you tell a difference in how it turns where it chips out at? Quite frequently I get blanks for that go from a smooth ribbon cutting to a almost it just turns to dust particles. I haven't figure that out yet. I'm thinking it is trapped air, but these are production blanks, not home made.

Thats the only problem I find with acrylic.

I too experience this issue with any plastics when i either dont have a good sharp edge on my tool or I'm trying to cut more aggressively.

Ryan, just shot you a PM.

Grant,
I find Acrylics typically will ribbon, Poly Resin blanks will power, and ribbon a bit.

As for air pockets, i'm not so sure that this is the cause, why I say this, i've turned numerous clear cast resins with embedded objects, crystal clear, and no signs of air pockets.

The chip outs if find happen if you get too aggressive with the tools. Even the little bubbly ones.

 

[Haynie]

We can't beat you up and call you silly names if you don't ask the questions. So please ask :biggrin:

Actually everything I know about pen turning is because of this place. Read the articles, explore the forums and when you have a question do an advanced search. In my case 90% of the questions were already answered which was great and when I still had questions I asked. People stepped up and helped. Unlike many forums where, when a newbie asks a question, some jackass old timer tells them to do a search and the rest of the respondents agree with the jackass old timer.

This is a friendly place.

 

[Robert111]

I always stop a little short of the final surface and finish up with a 1" square scraper that I've sharpened on the wheel so that I've got a burr. Just push it into the wheel for about 4 seconds, make sure you don't leave it there any longer or you burn it Check for a burr with your thumb..

So I take it down to my final surface with the scaper and then start with 400 wet and go right up to 2000 wet (auto body store for the finest grits). Then use the MicroMesh up to 12,000, also wet. Then polish with plastic polish or buff on a wheel.

 

[mson]

I watched a U tube video on turning an acrylic pen blank that uses MM pads.

At about 14.37 He uses micro mesh pads with water. I did the same and got great results.

Best of luck and enjoy it.

Creating Custom Acrylic Pens - Presented by Woodcraft (condensed version) - YouTube

 

[Ambidex]

I feel like a fool. I guess wet sanding prevents the occasional burns of the pads that leave their color on the blank. Thanks for all of your help. I've dry sanded with MM on wood, and they've never been cleaned. :0

Don't feel that way..it took me three months to learn how to finish to my liking..and like some others, I don't wet sand. I found it's unnecessary and messy. Have been doing an order for 100 pens..70 being acrylics and turn as clean as I can get them. start with 400, 600 and then mm. The best way to keep the mm pads clean is to wipe them on a t-shirt. also stop after radial mming to cross mm the blank, worth every second. Make sure all the marks are gone from the previous grit before moving on. I go to 12000 and then a couple coats of huts and an insurance coat of renaissance to prevent fingerprints during assembly. Would be happy to send closeups and see if you can find a scratch...:wink:good luck and show us some pics! George

 

[leehljp]

Some other things similar to what has been said.

IF scratches - don't use the 180 sandpaper, start at a higher number. Many people do think that 220/240 grit is very fine sandpaper, and it is in flat wood, but in pen turning where the finish is very closely viewed, even 320 is course. On a similar note - some people believe that wood needs scratches of the finish will not adhere. This is a none truth. Paint sticks to glass; CA sticks to glass and they are smoother that 800 sanded wood. Don't listen to the old adages that say that. This is pen turning and in a different category of finishing.

Wet sanding - I personally will not wet sand the wood on pens. Moisture, even it allowed to dry for a few hours will often show up in the finish. The problem is that there are just enough people who manage to get by without a problem that others think they can also. It is a gamble. Do a search for cloudy finish. Look at the list of posts with that word in it. Again, it is a gamble.

I do often wet sand CA on the final 12000 pass. At this point it is the acrylic (CA) that is being wet sanded, not the wood. There are people who still get a cloudy finish doing this. As to the cloudy finish, it will usually go away after a few days of sitting in a dry place.

 

[Cherie]

On acrylics, I start with the 180 and work up to 600. Then I wet sand with the micro mesh up to 12000. I do NO use a CA finish on acrylics. I use the Hut Ultra Gloss plastic polish a few times before I am done. Maybe I am blonde (or gray) but this is what works for me. Just my 2 cents.

 

[Wooden_Pen_Turner_11]

I finally got the pictures of my creations from 2012 up. Check 'em out at http://www.penturners.org/forum/f13/wet-sanding-vs-dry-sanding-94602/ and http://www.penturners.org/forum/f13/dry-sanding-vs-wet-sanding-part-2-a-94603/.

Thanks for all of your guys' help!

 

[crabcreekind]

Every time I turn accrylic, I get one or two deep lines that I just can't sand out. I use HSS cheapies, usually around 800 RPM. I found that from some other guy with the same lathe. Should I turn faster? Invest in some carbides? I'm not sure.

1-Carbide is VERY!!!!!!!!! Useful, you willl not regret it for penturning, you can use it on just about all pens you make.
2- Turn at a high speed. I turned at my lathe's top speed, which is 3200 rpm. This makes the tool hit it more times per second so, you can turn better.
3- sand through more grits. start at 15-,180,220. Then i wet 320,400,600 MM.
4-I use mcguires 17 plastic cleaner, then mcquires 10 plastic polish. Also, if you have had your micro mesh for over 100 pens, replace it. New stuff works so much better.

Hope this helps

 

[nava1uni]

I have found that turning acrylics works best using a scraper that is very sharp or a skew. I start sanding at 320 unless there is a nick and I always wet sand. I use a piece of shower curtain that fits over my lathe so it doesn't rust. I sand up to 600 using automotive wet/dry sandpaper. Then I use plastic polish. I wouldn't do a CA finish since it is plastic and you can make it shine without it.