60 degree Live and Dead Centers

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magpens

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Feb 2, 2011
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Am I correct in thinking that this post is a follow-up to your previous post and that you want to turn "between centers" ?
The previous post I am referring to is this one:

http://www.penturners.org/forum/f14/turning-centers-question-142796/

The LC-21 is cheaper and will do just fine as the live center to go in your tailstock.

For the dead center, you don't need the carbide tip of the H7967. It's too expensive, for another thing.

I assume the dead center is for your headstock, and if so make sure the Morse taper end of it matches the Morse taper of the headstock spindle of your lathe. . Going with this idea, the dead center will fit into your headstock spindle.

If you are buying these accessories in order to turn your pen blanks "between centers" then you need to give this plan some careful thought.

If I were in your position, I would buy a proper headstock chuck for your lathe (~$75 or more) and mount a straight-sided dead center in this chuck, not a dead center with a Morse taper back-end. . You will find this headstock chuck extremely useful to have. . If you don't want to go to this expense right now there are other options which I, or someone else, can tell you about.
 
Last edited:
Joined
Nov 29, 2010
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Buena Park, California, USA
A 60 degree live center I understand - fits the dimple on a mandrel. I have used that PSI one for years for TBC and occasionally with the mandrel (although I use a mandrel saver more often than not), with no complaints.

Are you looking for a 60 degree dead center? If so, I am not clear on the need for your application - they are not for use in the mandrel dimple. So as a drive center for TBC, any standard dead center should work. Here's what I use for a dead center: Enco - Guaranteed Lowest Prices on Machinery, Tools and Shop Supplies
 

wfsteadman

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Aug 10, 2016
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Colorado
I currently have a Nova G3 Chuck if that is what you are referring to for a Headstock Chuck.

I plan on turning pens TBC with no mandrel using TBC Bushings with the 60 Degree notchings.

Am I correct in thinking that this post is a follow-up to your previous post and that you want to turn "between centers" ?
The previous post I am referring to is this one:

http://www.penturners.org/forum/f14/turning-centers-question-142796/

The LC-21 is cheaper and will do just fine as the live center to go in your tailstock.

For the dead center, you don't need the carbide tip of the H7967. It's too expensive, for another thing.

I assume the dead center is for your headstock, and if so make sure the Morse taper end of it matches the Morse taper of the headstock spindle of your lathe. . Going with this idea, the dead center will fit into your headstock spindle.

If you are buying these accessories in order to turn your pen blanks "between centers" then you need to give this plan some careful thought.

If I were in your position, I would buy a proper headstock chuck for your lathe (~$75 or more) and mount a straight-sided dead center in this chuck, not a dead center with a Morse taper back-end. . You will find this headstock chuck extremely useful to have. . If you don't want to go to this expense right now there are other options which I, or someone else, can tell you about.
 

leehljp

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Feb 6, 2005
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Tunica, Mississippi,
All three would be fine, IMO. I have two live centers and 2 dead centers. Similar to each you posted.

I think that 3 have come from Grizzly and one from "The Little Machine Shop". I also have TBC bushings with 60° dimples.
 
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KenV

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Oct 28, 2005
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Juneau, Alaska.
It may be worth a thought or two about where you might be headed in your future pen making.

Penmakers live in two worlds. wood lathes and metal lathes amd much of penmaking lies between.

Precision is the difference. Precision provides greater consistency and comes with a cost.

The opposite of precision is slop. Techniques and skill can substitute to reduce the effect of slop.

The art is figuring out the balance.

A bore site laser in my headstock makes a circle a bit less than 3/16 diameter at 3 feet. Translating the measurements the inherent precision is a bit less than 0.003

That suggests to me that paying a high price for a drill chuck and arbor with a lower precision is not likely to make the outcome more precise, but purchase and use of a cheap one with 25 thousands precision will add slop.

There are places for cheap high slop tooling, but for the work I am doing andcplan on doing in the future, not on my lathe.

So I buy more from Little Machine Shop than PSI and ask about precision of the tooling along the way.
 

jttheclockman

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Feb 22, 2005
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19,140
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NJ, USA.
I too have a couple of each. I have the first one you linked to and it works great. I also have one that has interchangeable points which makes if a more versatile tool. Not sure where I got it. Had it a long time. Dead centers, no need for carbide but as with all tools buy once if you can so can't hurt.
 

magpens

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Feb 2, 2011
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Canada
Hi Wally,

It seems that you have a wealth of info above.

I am pleased to know that you have a Nova chuck already.

So all you need is a straight-sided dead center to fit in the chuck. . This center will act as the drive point for your turning between centers. . These straight-sided dead centers are not sold by very many places because they are so easy to make from a piece of steel rod. . You can get them as part of a set in a multi-point live center kit.

There are other solutions to get a drive point so somebody might make a suggestion.

What I use is a 60 degree cone coated with diamond dust as shown in the link below. . It's actually meant for sharpening mortise chisels but it works well for me as the drive for turning between centers. . The diamond dust is not really necessary but it does increase the friction ... just don't let your lathe cutting tools contact the cone !

Premium Hollow Mortise Chisels & Bits - Lee Valley Tools
 
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edstreet

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Aug 12, 2007
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No longer confused....
Keep in mind to that not all 'live centers' are good.

Personally I love the one on the right side :)


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