So Mal are you going to tell us why you need the tubes or is it a secret project and we would be killed if you told us?
Sure, Pete !! ... and I won't kill you !! .... get a coffee, put your feet up !
I read an article in the Library about how to make a single barrel Cigar pen.
I made one, and I like it so much that I am going to modify the method and make thousands of them. Please get Marla set up to make feather blanks for single barrel Cigars ... 27/64" diameter tube by 4 3/8" long !!!!
You see, the method described in the Library article uses the two Cigar tubes, plus one Sierra twist tube. One of the Cigar tubes (the longer) rotates inside the Sierra twist tube when you extend/retract the refill.
One of the problems with the author's (rhossack) modification is there is a short distance in the middle of the pen where there is no brass tube support for the blank material.
It helps a little bit to use a Sierra click tube instead of a Sierra twist tube.
But I want to use an even longer 27/64" tube which runs the full length of the pen so that the blank material is fully reinforced because even with the Sierra click tube, there is a weak spot near the center of the blank. One such pen that I made using Amboyna burl actually broke at that point.
The article by R. Hossack is here:
http://content.penturners.org/library/pens/onepiececigar.pdf
I will post pictures of my modified Cigars in due course. . Suffice it to say, for now, that they are (potentially) gorgeous, IMHO, and really show off a beautiful long blank like those made by Joe Schneider, Donald Fontaine, James Crabcreekindustries, and (hopefully) Marla.
I have always liked the length of the Dayacom Long Clicker but I absolutely hate its loud click, ugly design and rough operation so I avoid using it.
The single-barrel Cigar design is just a little longer and has smooth operation. . Drilling the long hole is no problem if you do it on the lathe. . One slight "gotcha" is the thinness of the blank material at the ends (about 0.033" at the finial end and about 0.024" at the nib end). I work to a finished blank diameter of 0.550" at the middle (which leaves 0.071" wall there) and tapering (not symmetrically) towards the ends with a 2-inch "flat" portion near the middle.
You will note that the wall thickness at the ends can be problematic for burls like Amboyna and for cast feather blanks, for example. . A specially made feather blank will be necessary with non-feather ends (perhaps Australian burl or resin sections). . I might be talking myself into learning to do my own casting !!
Anything is possible though. 