Ultra Cartridge Mistake

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stoneman

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I was working on a couple cartridge pens today to try out some solid copper Barnes Bullet nibs from Midway. Unfortunately, when I soldered a tube into a nickel 30-06 case, I dribbled solder on the wall of the case. In removing the solder, I also removed the nickel plating. So... I decided to sand the plating off the brass of the case wall but leave it on the shoulder, neck and rim of the case (a la Ultra Cigar). The result is kind of goofy, but I thgought I'd post it anyway. It also sports closed end deer antler turned on a new 7MM closed end mandrel from Bill at Arizona Silhouette. The second pen is a brass 30-06 with the Barnes bullet and another closed end deer antler. Though more expensive and more work to drill out and chamfer, the solid copper Barnes bullet makes a very nice nib (and is lead-free).
 

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jttheclockman

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That is a different approach. Looks good. Question do you crimp your bullets in or just pressure fit??? What do you do with your tubes, solder or glue???
 

rherrell

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Though more expensive and more work to drill out and chamfer, the solid copper Barnes bullet makes a very nice nib (and is lead-free).[/quote]

I tell customers not to eat my casing pens so the lead is not an issue for me.:wink:
Using something that is more expensive and is harder to work with doesn't make any sense TO ME.
 

Sylvanite

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Did you try melting the solder off? I think that if you touched the dribble with a hot soldering iron, that most of it would wick away. I am a bit surprised that the nickel plating came off. I would have expected it to be much more durable than the solder.

But, good save. I'd have tossed it and started over.

Regards,
Eric
 

jttheclockman

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I just have not figured out how the lead in the bullet would be a problem when it is encased in copper. The person drilling would be the person that is suspect. The lead can not touch any part of the pen when done is the way I see it. I still do not get the fear.
 

bitshird

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I just have not figured out how the lead in the bullet would be a problem when it is encased in copper. The person drilling would be the person that is suspect. The lead can not touch any part of the pen when done is the way I see it. I still do not get the fear.

I'm not sure, but some folks might be selling their pens to customers in Europe, suddenly they have an aversion to lead bearing good, I don't know how far it's indexed in their marketing policies, but no lead bearing solder permitted in electronics boards.
But what kind of fool sticks a pen like that in their mouth, and it does seem like more expense ans harder to work with seem counter productive to me. but the pens look nice other than the missing plating, but even that was a good save.
 

stoneman

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That is a different approach. Looks good. Question do you crimp your bullets in or just pressure fit??? What do you do with your tubes, solder or glue???

John,
As I am a reloder, I resize the cases and seat them just as I would in a live cartridge. It is plenty tight without adding a crimp. And I solder the tubes in.
 

stoneman

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No fear of lead here (I'm already brain dead). I made my own lead shot for shotshells for years with a homemade shotmaker. I do like several things about the Barnes though. The tip is very fine and you get a very neat point where the refill protrudes instead of the more common blunt point. However, this look can also be accomplished with lead core bullets that have fine tip hollow points. The solid copper bullet also drills cleaner (though I suspect those of you who melt out the lead don't have that issue). Finally, in my part of the country there are growing numbers of people petrified of old houses with lead based paint, old buildings with possible asbestos, hay dust, wood stoves, and on and on. So, "no lead" avoids a pile of follow up concerns. As for me, I've written notes to hunting buddies using the actual tip of a loaded bullet before - now that's real pencil lead. Anyway, I just make these pens as a hobby and the extra $.40 per pen it costs me is not a big deal (to me).
 
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