Trying Aluminum- Tough stuff

Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad
See more from nilsatcraft

Status
Not open for further replies.

nilsatcraft

Member
Joined
Feb 4, 2005
Messages
503
Location
Provo, UT, USA.
2005525173456_AluminumExecutiveFountain1.jpg


200552517359_AluminumExecutiveFountain2.jpg


Here are pics of my first attempt with Aluminum. I've been wanting to do this for months and I've seen a lot of cool aluminum pens on the group here and thought I'd give it a go. I bought a 33" rod of 5/8" round aluminum from a local welding shop for $5. Being overly excited, I forgot to pick up the instructions and bushings (I pick my own orders here at Craft Supplies) but I felt like I could do it without those. I was half right [:I].

The kit calls for a 27/64" bit but I thought I'd try a 13/32" since I expected a little looseness in the hole. That turned out to be perfect. THE DRILLING WAS THE WORST PART! It took an hour and a half on my cheap benchtop drill press with a 2" stroke! The shavings clogged the channels of the drill bit easily and I had to keep a bowl of water close by to put the blank in after each little bit of drilling. My homemade pen blank vise was really struggling to hold onto the blank- it kept spinning. Next time I'll use the $40 Pen Blank Drilling Vise and I'll use a full size drill press. For decoration, I thought I'd drill some holes and use a copper filler. I acquired some copper dust and I mixed it with thick CA and filled the holes. Once that was done I glued in the tubes and barrel trimmed them. They trimmed really well- even better than most woods. I didn't have the right bushings so I took the smaller bushing from my Havana Ballpoint Bushing set and used those to mount it to the mandrel. I decided to use my adjustable mandrel to minimize the flex on the rod. I did them one at a time. I figured since it was metal I would turn it at the slowest speed (500 RPM) on my Jet mini. I tried the roughing gouge, the scraper and the spindle gouge and I found that the roughing gouge worked the best.

The inlay kept chipping out so I eventually used black CA glue on the cap section. It wasn't what I wanted to use but it was fine. I had already invested three and half hours into the pen at that point and I wanted to enjoy my Saturday night with my family so I left the shop. The next day my son and I went back out to the shop and I put the longer (bottom) tube on the mandrel. This time I thought I'd have better luck at a higher speed so I cranked it up to 4,000 RPM and wow- what a difference. Metal, plastic, wood- whatever- turn it fast! The copper inlay didn't chip out because I had it spinning fast enough and I plowed through the metal, producing long thin ribbons of 'tin foil'. I sanded to 600 grit to keep a bit of a Satin finish to it and I then put Renaissance Wax on it. It turned out OK for my first one but I need a few days to recover before I try another!

So what I learned was- turn fast, use a good drill press, think twice before trying decorative inlay on your first run and get some MicroMesh or higher grit paper if you want a highly reflective surface like chrome. I had fun and I'll try another before too long. Please feel free to make fun of my mismatched pen or complain about this long post. [:p]
 
Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad

JimGo

Member
Joined
Jan 24, 2005
Messages
6,498
Location
North Wales, PA
Nils, that came out great! Nicely done all around. As you can tell from most of my posts, I tend to favor longer opening posts because it provides a better basis for anyone following in your footsteps, which is (IMHO) one of the great reasons for having this forum. I was especially interested in the speed issue; seems like what you struck on is a good rule of thumb. I guess I'll have to go home and dial up the speed (well, "belt up" the speed) on my TurnCrafter Pro!

Thanks for the info!


Oh, how often did you find yourself sharpening the tools?
 

nilsatcraft

Member
Joined
Feb 4, 2005
Messages
503
Location
Provo, UT, USA.
Thanks for the commments. Jim- I sharpened every few minutes or so. Just turning the aluminum made the gouge extremely hot. I dipped the tool in the water bowl every few minutes as well. Aluminum really turns quite nicely, though (once you get the speed right).
 

Old Griz

Passed Away Oct 4, 2013
In Memoriam
Joined
Mar 17, 2004
Messages
1,977
Location
Hagerstown, MD, USA.
Very nice Nils... that's a 10K Executive if my eyes are working right... I like that kit... it has sold well for me for people looking for a less expensive alternative in a RB or FP than the Jr Gent...
Please let us know more about the aluminum you turned.. what grade... I know that there are different hardness grades and that can definately affect the turning and finishing..
As Fred stated, I think you would have an easier time putting the blank into a set of 1" jaws and drilling and trimming on the lathe... in fact if you can find the right size drill, you might not even need the tubes. Just a thought from my somewhat feeble mind.. [;)]
 

jdavis

Member
Joined
Jan 27, 2005
Messages
1,260
Location
longview, texas, USA.
Very nice Nils. We drill alum on the lathe. Our big lathe not mini. Works well for us. The advantage of having a full woodshop makes many of our chores easier.
 

rtjw

Member
Joined
Feb 26, 2005
Messages
2,227
Location
Glen Rose, Texas, USA.
Looks great. I am scared of the metals. I look at it as if I can screw up wood and shatter it into a million pieces, I dont want metal flying around my shop.
 

Rudy Vey

Member
Joined
Jan 26, 2004
Messages
2,032
Location
South Plainfield, NJ, USA.
Someone asked for the best grade for our purposes, I recommend the 6061 and 6063 alloys. They both work well when machined. The aluminum one can buy at HD, Lowes or Sears Hardware is not good for maching, it smears and may color things dark. I have several Flattops and El Grande's in Al and about 14-16 Barons and Flattops in Titanium - here you talking about a tough material....
 

nilsatcraft

Member
Joined
Feb 4, 2005
Messages
503
Location
Provo, UT, USA.
I have no idea what grade of aluminum it is. It was the only type available. I can't imagine turning Titanium or one of the harder metals. It sounds like I'll have to drill on the lathe next time. I've got everything I need to do it, I just need to try it next time.
 

Paul in OKC

Member
Joined
Jul 26, 2004
Messages
3,089
Location
Oklahoma City, OK, USA.
Very nice, Nils. I agree with Rudy on the grades of aluminum. As a machinist, even in the shop, lessor grades are gummy to work with when machinied, and harder to get a good finish.
 

btboone

Member
Joined
Dec 5, 2004
Messages
2,421
Location
Roswell, GA, USA.
Very true Paul. Even with the harder grades like 6061 or 7075, the pen will easily get scratched when it contacts other metals. This is just something that will happen with any aluminum. It can also easily get oxidized with acidic fingers or other chemicals too. Fortunately, it's very easy to refinish and can be done to a nice brush finish anytime with a ScotchBrite pad, the green plastic scruffy pads normally used on pots and pans.
 

JimGo

Member
Joined
Jan 24, 2005
Messages
6,498
Location
North Wales, PA
Bruce, can aluminum be easily plated with another metal, like gold, silver, or even a chrome finish?

Nils, one thing that might help protect the finish is to put a coat of poly or laquor (sp?) on there. Someone else can probably make a more definitive recommendation.
 

hobby_dale

Member
Joined
May 8, 2005
Messages
162
Location
Plano, TX, USA.
Nils, great looking pen! Actually I like the longer upper body and the smaller lower body. Personal preference, of course. I think it turned out great, considering it was your first time and helped ease your pain [:D] for the next one. Maybe not pain, but time for sure! Thanks for the blow-by-blow description. It helps those who haven't tried it fear it not!
 

btboone

Member
Joined
Dec 5, 2004
Messages
2,421
Location
Roswell, GA, USA.
Jim, the problem with plating aluminum is that it's relatively soft, so if it gets hit the underlying metal deforms and the coating can flake. It would take having it sent to a professional plater since the chemicals involved are very deadly. Anodizing is something else normally done to aluminum. This is a super hard oxide layer that gets dye impregnated in it. There are different types of anodizing including hard anodizing which could work OK. It loses the mirror finish though, and anodizers are likely to charge a high minimum order just like platers might. Lacquer can be done, but it scratches relatively easily.
 

JimGo

Member
Joined
Jan 24, 2005
Messages
6,498
Location
North Wales, PA
Hmmmm...thanks Bruce! I'd like to take a shot at a metal pen, but I'd like to try something I can get plated when done. Not that Nils' pen doesn't look great like it is!
 

Fangar

Member
Joined
Apr 27, 2005
Messages
1,837
Location
Wilton, CA, USA.
Nils,

Looks Great!

I posted some aluminum stuff a while back. If you are planing on doing much more of it, I made a tool that cost less than 10 bucks, that is much heavier than a standard scraper. Take a look here:

http://www.penturners.org/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=6371&whichpage=1

Page 3 shows the tool.


Also, I have been carrying around both the brushed and polished aluminum bodies for a while now. They seem to be holding up great. The polished shows a few light scrathces, but it is easily buffed out. The brushed has hel up well too. No signs of tranish or discoloration.


James
 

btboone

Member
Joined
Dec 5, 2004
Messages
2,421
Location
Roswell, GA, USA.
Titanium sounds like it is just what you're looking for Jim. It doesn't scratch as easily or oxidize. The trick is drilling it. [:D] Aluminum pens do work fine as long as they are wiped down periodically or just handled. If they are left in a drawer for a year, they sometimes get white oxidation. This is accelerated if they get wet or salty, like from sweat and left that way. Different chemicals, like OxiClean will play havoc on them. The best thing is to keep them waxed.
 

boxguy

Member
Joined
Apr 18, 2005
Messages
34
Location
Stoneham, MA, USA.
Nice pen Nils. I drill all my blanks on the lathe . I grab the blank with a nova chuck w/ # 1 jaws, I find this to be the best way to do the job. I dont understand why people do it any other way. A chuck system can cost anywhere from ruffly $140 to $300 depending on brand. Sill less than a good drill press and has many other funtions on the lathe.
Has anyone tried anodizing (sp) or having aluminum barrels powder coted ?
 

Old Griz

Passed Away Oct 4, 2013
In Memoriam
Joined
Mar 17, 2004
Messages
1,977
Location
Hagerstown, MD, USA.
OK, so what I am hearing is not to buy the aluminum rod I can get at HD or Lowes.. so does anyone have a suggestion for a good source... that will not break my wallet... I want to experiment with one or three before I decide if this is a good thing for me...
 

nilsatcraft

Member
Joined
Feb 4, 2005
Messages
503
Location
Provo, UT, USA.
Thanks for the kinds words, everyone. I think I may need to try a different type of aluminum as well. The stuff I had is fine but if there's something better out there I'd love to give it a go. I just got an order for our new Crush Grinder so I'll be working on that this weekend and maybe another fun pen or two. These three day weekends are the best!
 

Paul in OKC

Member
Joined
Jul 26, 2004
Messages
3,089
Location
Oklahoma City, OK, USA.
Originally posted by Old Griz
<br />OK, so what I am hearing is not to buy the aluminum rod I can get at HD or Lowes.. so does anyone have a suggestion for a good source... that will not break my wallet... I want to experiment with one or three before I decide if this is a good thing for me...

Tom, there are a couple of online metal suppliers. I think one of them is onlinemetals.com , if you don't find anything, let me know and I can hook you up with a short piece of 5/8 or 3/4 diameter 6061 material reasonable. You can also go to mscdirect.com , they sell material, only thing is it comes in 6 foot lengths.
 

DCBluesman

Passed Away Mar 3, 2016
In Memoriam
Joined
Aug 22, 2004
Messages
7,679
Location
WOODBRIDGE, VIRGINIA
Originally posted by Paul in OKC
You can also go to mscdirect.com , they sell material, only thing is it comes in 6 foot lengths.
Fortunately MSC also sells in 2 foot lengths. http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/NNLMK32?PARTPG=NNSRAR2&PMPROD=2&PMK0NO=488784 [8D]
 

Fangar

Member
Joined
Apr 27, 2005
Messages
1,837
Location
Wilton, CA, USA.
Originally posted by Old Griz
<br />Here is the link to the 6061 Rod in 3/4" diameter 24" long
http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/NNSRIT?PMAKA=32000556

Tom,

You might take a look in your local area for a fabrication or welding shop. I get 12 feet of the 6061 in 5/8" rod for about 15 bucks. I have a truck, but they also cut in half for me to make it easier to tranpsort. Also, the 3/4" is a bit large. Even the Cigar pens have enough for a fat body with 5/8" since it is already round. 3/4" is just a lot of extra cutting.

Cheers,

James
 

rtgleck

Member
Joined
Nov 8, 2004
Messages
414
Location
loveland, CO, USA.
Wonderful looking pen there Nils. I love the grain and figure of wood, but every once and a while those Aluminum pens are just amazing to look at. Wonderful job there.
 
Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top Bottom