Traditional cigar

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Dale Allen

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Traditional as in the kit type.
This is another prototype. Not too difficult to make but there are some things I'd do different. The band is a little crooked. Didn't notice that until I was cropping the picture. The clip is really tight and I need to move the centerhole some so it is less so. The wood is not my usual burl type but this was just a test pen. I'll wear it to work and see if I get any comments.
 

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plantman

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Dale ; Very unique pen. What does it look like when posted? If I let the point out when I put it in my pocket, would it mark my shirt? Jim S
 

Dale Allen

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Dale ; Very unique pen. What does it look like when posted? If I let the point out when I put it in my pocket, would it mark my shirt? Jim S

Jim, you misunderstand. As with a Traditional or Americana pen, it is a twist type pen. And the cheaper single twist at that!:biggrin:
 
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Dale Allen

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Very nice. The ash looks fantastic and the alignment is pretty close. Is there a reason you underturned the nib end?

I didn't turn the nib end down to the size of the hardware because I wanted to see how it would look and feel this way. It shows too much of the grain end and the next one will be turned to a sharper tapper and mate closer to the hardware. This hardware usually has an additional ring on that end that I decided would detract from the look.
 

SDB777

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Bet someone's gonna tell you your shirt is gonna be burnt!


Wonderful ash, even if it isn't the 'normal' stuff you use for it....nice texture!









Scott (make a cigar out of a cigar) B
 

joefyffe

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Dale: I too like the Ash look and would like to know how this was accomplished. Now, not to be finding fault, but TO be finding fault, (isn't that how we learn, it is for me) unless it is just in the angle of the photograph, I would take a serious look at lathe allignment, or get rid of bushings about .015 above finished size and go to between centers, IF you are using bushings. It looks to me like a very serious OOR of one piece or the other. If I'm doing wood, I take it to "bushing close" go between centers and skew/sand to about .008 under final size (measured fittings) CA back to final size, MM it, loupe it, pour a Kentucky Bourbon, and look up and say "Thank You Lord"!:biggrin:
 

Dale Allen

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Joe, I see what you are referring to and let me explain the process a bit.
First, it isn't OOC(out of concentricity) as I call it. I use TBC bushings, some purchased and some custom made by me. Usually I make a special insert bushing that will allow me to hold the blank from just one end after the tube is glued in. This is because the tube is usually not exactly in the middle of the hole and the hole may have been drilled slightly skewed from the round blank I started with. By holding it from the end I can then mark the dead center, re-drill with the centering drill and proceed to turn the piece. Being as this was a prototype I did not make that insert bushing from aluminum or brass. I used a piece of renshape plastic, which I have plenty of, and it flexes a little. Apparently it did so and the center of the closed end was off and then when I parted off the ash it exposed the other end of the tube and well, things got ugly from there on. The upper section is not perfectly in line with the lower section. I knew this was going to happen but I was too far along to scrap it so I just finished it anyway. I need to change some of the steps and processes but that is what the first run is all about.
Ah yes, the ash and how that is done. It is very much a learned process but basically I start with some wenge that is glued onto the end of the blank. That gives me the dark base that shows through the white. I previously used a black marker but kept getting purple when it mixed with the white.
 

joefyffe

Passed Away Aug 19, 2018
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Location
Indianapolis (almost Zionsville) Indiana
Joe, I see what you are referring to and let me explain the process a bit.
First, it isn't OOC(out of concentricity) as I call it. I use TBC bushings, some purchased and some custom made by me. Usually I make a special insert bushing that will allow me to hold the blank from just one end after the tube is glued in. This is because the tube is usually not exactly in the middle of the hole and the hole may have been drilled slightly skewed from the round blank I started with. By holding it from the end I can then mark the dead center, re-drill with the centering drill and proceed to turn the piece. Being as this was a prototype I did not make that insert bushing from aluminum or brass. I used a piece of renshape plastic, which I have plenty of, and it flexes a little. Apparently it did so and the center of the closed end was off and then when I parted off the ash it exposed the other end of the tube and well, things got ugly from there on. The upper section is not perfectly in line with the lower section. I knew this was going to happen but I was too far along to scrap it so I just finished it anyway. I need to change some of the steps and processes but that is what the first run is all about.
Ah yes, the ash and how that is done. It is very much a learned process but basically I start with some wenge that is glued onto the end of the blank. That gives me the dark base that shows through the white. I previously used a black marker but kept getting purple when it mixed with the white.

10-4 ! Thanks for the explanation. The ash is certainly a nice effect!
 
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