Top twist slim

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Dale Allen

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Tried something different for me.
This may have already been attempted.
Many problems to work out and I think this would lend itself better to acrylics.
This uses most of the parts from a streamline in a 7mm twist. The top twists to extend the ink. I stained the wood and that gave me all kinds of strange patterns that don't seem to match the finial.:frown:
 

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ctubbs

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That looks like a great start. As SteveG asks, what holds the clip there? I really like the shape and idea.

Charles
 

Dale Allen

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Well, that is one of the areas that I'm not entirely sure about.
The clip is cut at the point opposite the tang and opened up to fit around a larger brass tube. Not sure what the tube is for but it is .312" OD.
I fashioned a flange on one end and that fits over the split ring. I also cut a tenon into the top of the tube so it would sit flush and of course a notch for the clip. Then, I epoxied the clip and tube into place. I was not comfortable with cutting the clip into the side of the blank and I could not think of any other way to maintain the tension on the clip. I'll use it for a while and see how it holds up.
 

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plantman

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Dale: Nice look to a Slimline !! I have used this method to match the cap to the pen for a smoother look. Did you turn the full length of the pen, then cut off what you needed for the cap?? This would give you the grain match you wanted. Jim S
 

Dale Allen

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Jim; The ends are oriented correctly. It's just that staining the wood created too many variations that it doesn't match the way I'd like.
If the clip says tight I'll try another with wood but not stained or with an acrylic.
I'm thinking that maybe an additional narrow piece to hold the clip may be a better method.
When I cut the blank it is done on the lathe after it is rounded. I use a very narrow parting tool to minimize the amount of wood removed.
 
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joefyffe

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Jim; The ends are oriented correctly. It's just that staining the wood created too many variations that it doesn't match the way I'd like.
If the clip says tight I'll try another with wood but not stained or with an acrylic.
I'm thinking that maybe an additional narrow piece to hold the clip may be a better method.
When I cut the blank it is done on the lathe after it is rounded. I use a very narrow parting tool to minimize the amount of wood removed.

Dale: you state a "very narrow parting tool". For a "very narrow parting tool" I use a ground down hacksaw blade. Is yours different than that, and how would yours compare to the thickness of mine? Thanks in advance!

joe
 
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Dale Allen

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joe, mine may be a bit thicker than yours. Mine is about .032" and my hacksaw blade is thinner than that. I won't tell you what I use because it is not something that I would recommend due to it being a bit dangerous. :redface::biggrin:
 

joefyffe

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:rolleyes: Yeh, I know what you mean. The hacksaw blade is probably not the safest thing. I ground it down kinda like the Robert Sorby cutoff tool and placed it into a "hacksaw blade handle" available at places like Lowes' etc. I try to keep it short in the adjustable handle. Thickness is .021 So far, So good!:biggrin:
 
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