Bob in SF
Member
I'd read some conflicting reviews about these - so I'd thought I'd give them a spin:
3 Tips (gathered the hard way);
1) Make a hardwood press block to safely insert the click subassembly into the top barrel: hardwood (or resin) drilled 3/4" deep with an 11/32" drill.
2) Precisely mill the ends, no tolerance for shortened tubes.
3) Fractionally widen the stylus opening to eliminate "retraction drag": I used a small cylindrical diamond bit on my Foredom flex shaft - but Dremel or other rotary tool should be fine.
I used Douglas and Sturgess clear casting polyester resin to cast the blanks in clear pvc pipe molds, injecting extra color with a 10cc syringe with 3/16"ID aquarium tubing; as explained in my earlier thread here:
http://www.penturners.org/forum/f178/spiral-clear-casting-blank-drying-motor-140035/
Warm regards, Bob
3 Tips (gathered the hard way);
1) Make a hardwood press block to safely insert the click subassembly into the top barrel: hardwood (or resin) drilled 3/4" deep with an 11/32" drill.
2) Precisely mill the ends, no tolerance for shortened tubes.
3) Fractionally widen the stylus opening to eliminate "retraction drag": I used a small cylindrical diamond bit on my Foredom flex shaft - but Dremel or other rotary tool should be fine.
I used Douglas and Sturgess clear casting polyester resin to cast the blanks in clear pvc pipe molds, injecting extra color with a 10cc syringe with 3/16"ID aquarium tubing; as explained in my earlier thread here:
http://www.penturners.org/forum/f178/spiral-clear-casting-blank-drying-motor-140035/
Warm regards, Bob