TN Gold Jr. Gent Acrylic

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Bree

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I thought I would try a nice acrylic as my first pen of the year. I got the blank got over at Woodcraft. I wet sanded to MM-12000 and then hit it with Ren Wax. I had a problem with the black plastic coupler and had to disassemble the end cap and punch the plastic back into place. Somehow it came loose as I was testing alignment before pressing in the nib coupler.

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:biggrin::biggrin::biggrin:
 
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ed4copies

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Bree,

In my OPINION!!! If you put the nib in first (you can control the position of the best pattern, relative to the fountain pen nib, but also with a RB, the second step is easier), THEN position the pattern for the cap. The screw threads won't change position and the cap will line up right.

Last, screw the back (top) of the pen body onto the cap and line up the pattern as much as possible. Obviously, this end was never mated in the first place, so there will NOT be a perfect position.
Then, put the back on the body. When you press this in, the threads will actually go down a little too far and the pattern is changed. After a while, you will learn about how much, and make an allowance for it.

But, the important match between the cap and body, when the cap is over the nib, should be perfect. (Except for the material removed in the "facing" and cutting processes).

Just a FWIW--ignore, if you like.
 

jleiwig

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Jan 10, 2007
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1,860
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Monroe, Ohio, USA.
Bree,

In my OPINION!!! If you put the nib in first (you can control the position of the best pattern, relative to the fountain pen nib, but also with a RB, the second step is easier), THEN position the pattern for the cap. The screw threads won't change position and the cap will line up right.

Last, screw the back (top) of the pen body onto the cap and line up the pattern as much as possible. Obviously, this end was never mated in the first place, so there will NOT be a perfect position.
Then, put the back on the body. When you press this in, the threads will actually go down a little too far and the pattern is changed. After a while, you will learn about how much, and make an allowance for it.

But, the important match between the cap and body, when the cap is over the nib, should be perfect. (Except for the material removed in the "facing" and cutting processes).

Just a FWIW--ignore, if you like.

English please? :confused::biggrin:

All kidding aside, that's a nice looking pen!
 

PaulSF

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Oct 9, 2009
Messages
286
Location
San Francisco
That's beautiful!! I'm going to have to scour Woodcraft for that. Did you paint the inside of the blanks with black paint?
 

Bree

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Jun 19, 2009
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That's beautiful!! I'm going to have to scour Woodcraft for that. Did you paint the inside of the blanks with black paint?
No but I definitely recommend it. In certain orientations of light this pen has an underlying brass tone. It works well because it coordinates with the TN gold. But I have two more similar blanks... one yellow and one lovely purple one. They are getting painted tubes for sure.
:wink::wink::wink:
 

Bree

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Jun 19, 2009
Messages
1,736
Location
Buffalo, NY
Bree,

In my OPINION!!! If you put the nib in first (you can control the position of the best pattern, relative to the fountain pen nib, but also with a RB, the second step is easier), THEN position the pattern for the cap. The screw threads won't change position and the cap will line up right.

Last, screw the back (top) of the pen body onto the cap and line up the pattern as much as possible. Obviously, this end was never mated in the first place, so there will NOT be a perfect position.
Then, put the back on the body. When you press this in, the threads will actually go down a little too far and the pattern is changed. After a while, you will learn about how much, and make an allowance for it.

But, the important match between the cap and body, when the cap is over the nib, should be perfect. (Except for the material removed in the "facing" and cutting processes).

Just a FWIW--ignore, if you like.

Ed... I think you are spot on! By pressing in the nib coupler, the issue of the motion of the trim ring and the adjustment for rotation is made moot. I am going to try your method on the next one.

What annoys me is that pressing in the black plastic coupler seems to always cause shearing of some of the plastic. I am going got chamfer the inner edge of the tube next time and give it a light smoothing and see if that will stop the tearing of the plastic.

Also, When I lightly screwed in the nib coupler to test alignment, the plastic threads moved into the top tube... somehow the plastic separated from the coupler. I got it back into place with my Harbor Freight transfer punches. I am thinking that maybe I should epoxy that plastic when I press it in. Any comments??
:confused::confused::confused:
 

JimMc7

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May 12, 2009
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Location
NE Oklahoma
<snip> I am thinking that maybe I should epoxy that plastic when I press it in. Any comments??
:confused::confused::confused:

I don't use epoxy but do use red loc-tite on a lot of kits with "loose" fit (Baron and Sierra clicks always). You can still remove the coupler if you need to -- even with the red stuff. Not sure this would be easy with epoxy. Does take a few minutes to set up though.
 

Bree

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Jun 19, 2009
Messages
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Location
Buffalo, NY
I don't use epoxy but do use red loc-tite on a lot of kits with "loose" fit (Baron and Sierra clicks always). You can still remove the coupler if you need to -- even with the red stuff. Not sure this would be easy with epoxy. Does take a few minutes to set up though.

That's a good idea! I never thought about Loctite. I have a lot of it too.

You never know what the penturners are going to come up with when you ask a question around here! This forum is a terrific resource.
:biggrin::biggrin::biggrin:
 

ed4copies

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Location
Racine, WI, USA.
Ed... I think you are spot on! By pressing in the nib coupler, the issue of the motion of the trim ring and the adjustment for rotation is made moot. I am going to try your method on the next one.

What annoys me is that pressing in the black plastic coupler seems to always cause shearing of some of the plastic. I am going got chamfer the inner edge of the tube next time and give it a light smoothing and see if that will stop the tearing of the plastic.

Also, When I lightly screwed in the nib coupler to test alignment, the plastic threads moved into the top tube... somehow the plastic separated from the coupler. I got it back into place with my Harbor Freight transfer punches. I am thinking that maybe I should epoxy that plastic when I press it in. Any comments??
:confused::confused::confused:

Yes, the plastic is "peeled" a little. When the plastic is all in the top, you can stop and take off the "peels" with a razor knife, BEFORE you seat the last eighth inch. Then the little black pieces will be removed, instead of sticking out around the centerband.

The plastic threads move independently of the centerband. I don't glue them, but I AM aware of it as I seat the plastic section into the cap. No rotation allowed!!

Hope this helps.
 

Bree

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Joined
Jun 19, 2009
Messages
1,736
Location
Buffalo, NY
Yes, the plastic is "peeled" a little. When the plastic is all in the top, you can stop and take off the "peels" with a razor knife, BEFORE you seat the last eighth inch. Then the little black pieces will be removed, instead of sticking out around the centerband.

The plastic threads move independently of the centerband. I don't glue them, but I AM aware of it as I seat the plastic section into the cap. No rotation allowed!!

Hope this helps.
My thread section pushed back a quarter inch or more into to top of the pen cap. I had to disassemble the end cap to jam it back in. Why did it do that? How can I make certain that it doesn;t happen again on the next pen?
:confused::confused::confused:
 
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