Threaded PR and Stainless Steel

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skiprat

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This is the completed pen that I used in my threading topic. I wasn't planning on making a pen from the examples I used, but hey, waste not want not:biggrin:. The cap seems a little oversized for the body, but not too badly. The stainless bands support the weaker threaded areas. The cap finial is screwed in with M8 x 0.75, the cap to body is M10 x 0.75 and the body finial ( to change refill ) is M8 x 1.25. I remove some of the first threads in the cap so that it takes about three turns to get it on or off.
PR may not be the most practical for threading but I think it looks better than epoxy or Alumilite. Although the pic doesn't seem like it, it actually shines pretty nicely
Any comments or criticisms welcome:biggrin:
 

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RAdams

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I am guessing the nib section is (was) a bolt? What i wouldnt give for that kind of skill. That is an amazing pen! Right now i am feeling pretty defeated. Maybe i will just go back to slims for a while. See if i can get those right.
 

LEAP

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The bands on the cap overwhelm the PR a little but other than that another hit for the rat.
I just got access to a big old Clausing Metal Lathe and a verticle mill. Now to learn how to use them. In about ten years or so I might start catching up with you Skip.
 

cnirenberg

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Steven,
She's a sweetheart. I like the threaded PR/ss Nib, it really adds a nice touch, and a fantastic contrast. Have you experienced a difference in threading solid/semi solid colors vs. say an Alchemy type of blank, which has more additives, colorants etc to them? Just wondering if it was me.
 

skiprat

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I am guessing the nib section is (was) a bolt? What i wouldnt give for that kind of skill. That is an amazing pen! Right now i am feeling pretty defeated. Maybe i will just go back to slims for a while. See if i can get those right.

Yep, was a bolt. Don't give up, just remember that you can't make omlettes till you break a couple of eggs:biggrin:

The bands on the cap overwhelm the PR a little but other than that another hit for the rat.
I just got access to a big old Clausing Metal Lathe and a verticle mill. Now to learn how to use them. In about ten years or so I might start catching up with you Skip.

Phil, the cap bands were that size out of pure laziness on my part:redface:. They were 12mm nuts. I screwed them onto a headless bolt and turned down the outside, then bored them out so they were about 1mm thick, but neglected to narrow them down.
Good luck with the lathe and mill. I wish I had a mill, I've got a vertical slide for my lathe, but it's much more limited than a proper mill.

Steven,
She's a sweetheart. I like the threaded PR/ss Nib, it really adds a nice touch, and a fantastic contrast. Have you experienced a difference in threading solid/semi solid colors vs. say an Alchemy type of blank, which has more additives, colorants etc to them? Just wondering if it was me.

Cris, I had to think about that for a bit as I thought I'd threaded much more solid black than anything else, but found that I've actually threaded more Alchemy type colours, so I can't say I've had and major differences.
I don't think PR is the ideal candidate for threading and I try to design it so as not to need it. I don't mind doing it on a finial so a refill can be changed as it doesn't get used that often.


Thanks for the nice comments:biggrin:
 

Texatdurango

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Skip,
Looks nice, the darker acrylic is a good match for the stainless.

In the lower body, the steel band just below the nib threads, is that band threaded onto the acrylic blank or just glued on? Before I got my metal lathe I thought of adding such a band but didn't want to just glue it onto the blank. Now that I can thread parts, I may give it a go. Thanks for showing, it gave me an idea! :wink:
 

altaciii

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Steven, Another one hit out of the park! Great looking pen even if was just for practice. What is the weight of the pen. How much heavier is the pen in relation to say a wood or pr pen.
 

Rfturner

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Stainless steel pen

That is another pen that makes me jealous. The stainless components on the pen paired with the PR is a great combo. Skpirat your pens always seem to amaze me and makes me want to imnprove what I am doing that much more.
 

skiprat

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Thanks again:wink:

George, that part is glued on. I figured it would offer more support than screwed on. Using the theory that a 'lamination is greater than the sum of it's parts' LOL, I don't mind cheating:biggrin:

Alex, good question so I just weighed a bunch of pens..
This one is around the size of a Jr Gent RB, perhaps a tiny bit bigger.

This one; Body 34g Cap 21g
Jr Retro RB Wood; 28g / 21g
Cigar Ultra BP PR; 49g ( :eek: heavier than I thought )
Majestic RB Wood 55g / 38g
Majestic FP Wood 48g / 38g ( no ink or convertor )
Jr Gent BP Alumilite 48g
Jr Gent Pencil Alumilite 45g
Long Click Alumilite/Pinecone 33g

Not too bad:biggrin: Heck, I've got one that is around 110g !!!:eek:
 

bitshird

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Skip sure is a nice looking pen, (as usual), I think the only way you could surprise this group would be to make an average 20.00 slimline, out of some white pine or cedar.
 

altaciii

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Wow, I'm surprised that the stainless is not any heavier. I had two stainless bolts in my hand on Sunday and decided against turning them prejudging them to be way to heavy to make a pen.
Thanks for the info, Steven



Thanks again:wink:

George, that part is glued on. I figured it would offer more support than screwed on. Using the theory that a 'lamination is greater than the sum of it's parts' LOL, I don't mind cheating:biggrin:

Alex, good question so I just weighed a bunch of pens..
This one is around the size of a Jr Gent RB, perhaps a tiny bit bigger.

This one; Body 34g Cap 21g
Jr Retro RB Wood; 28g / 21g
Cigar Ultra BP PR; 49g ( :eek: heavier than I thought )
Majestic RB Wood 55g / 38g
Majestic FP Wood 48g / 38g ( no ink or convertor )
Jr Gent BP Alumilite 48g
Jr Gent Pencil Alumilite 45g
Long Click Alumilite/Pinecone 33g

Not too bad:biggrin: Heck, I've got one that is around 110g !!!:eek:
 
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