Stained maple pen with case

Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad
See more from Kloss

Kloss

Member
Joined
Oct 21, 2016
Messages
24
Location
Rochester NY
I know, simple maple is boring; especially for a pen, but I am lucky enough to have a lot of maple wood and oak available from my backyard.
But you know what....not figured/simple wood can be a wonderful canvas.
 

Attachments

  • FullSizeRender.jpg
    FullSizeRender.jpg
    103.7 KB · Views: 246
Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad

bpgoldo

Member
Joined
Apr 13, 2010
Messages
340
Location
Carlsbad
Kloss, with your stain gradient and skill at the lathe and finish, you have make simple...special. And that's sumpin' to be proud of....and do a lot more of.
 

Kloss

Member
Joined
Oct 21, 2016
Messages
24
Location
Rochester NY
Thank you guys.

I have been playing with stain and dyes for a couple of months and I am still learning.
For the gradient, after properly sanding, I just started with a black stain in the airbrush. I brought it down using some 0000 steel wool.
Did the same with the red stain that, having a white background, went towards pink.

For the cases I use maple branches with a diameter larger than 1 inch; sometimes oak.
Usually I roughly turn one part of the case, bore it with a forstner bit (I think the 3/4 of inch diameter) around 7/8 cm deep (depends on the pen style). Mount the other part on the lathe, do the same (using a smaller forstner bit, I think the half inch) and make half inch tenon to have a tight fit so I can turn the case.
I finish them separately just using scrap wood pieces mounted on the scroll chuck with 2 inches tenons.
I sand the inside with a little drum mounted on the drill press, then apply some lacquer to avoid any dust to stick on the pen. After the lacquer is cured, I glue some foam inside at the bottom of the two ends of the pen case. This will avoid the pen to travel around the case.

Please excuse my English.
 

liljohn1368

Member
Joined
Jul 19, 2015
Messages
2,285
Location
Brooksville, MS
Thank you guys.

I have been playing with stain and dyes for a couple of months and I am still learning.
For the gradient, after properly sanding, I just started with a black stain in the airbrush. I brought it down using some 0000 steel wool.
Did the same with the red stain that, having a white background, went towards pink.

For the cases I use maple branches with a diameter larger than 1 inch; sometimes oak.
Usually I roughly turn one part of the case, bore it with a forstner bit (I think the 3/4 of inch diameter) around 7/8 cm deep (depends on the pen style). Mount the other part on the lathe, do the same (using a smaller forstner bit, I think the half inch) and make half inch tenon to have a tight fit so I can turn the case.
I finish them separately just using scrap wood pieces mounted on the scroll chuck with 2 inches tenons.
I sand the inside with a little drum mounted on the drill press, then apply some lacquer to avoid any dust to stick on the pen. After the lacquer is cured, I glue some foam inside at the bottom of the two ends of the pen case. This will avoid the pen to travel around the case.

Please excuse my English.

This is nice to know. I could mount this on my goose call insert mandrel. Thanks for sharing. Really nice pen by the way.
 

mark james

IAP Collection, Curator
Joined
Sep 6, 2012
Messages
12,752
Location
Medina, Ohio
Both the pen and the case are wonderful!

Thank you for sharing, the case gives may design opportunities.

And what you did with "plain wood" is wonderful. I love local woods, and feel they have their own subtle beauty.

Great set!
 
Top Bottom