Snakewood Sierra

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PenWorks

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Well everthing went as planned.....
cut and oiled these Friday night....
by Saturday they had all cracked, GREAT !
Filled in the crackes and finished, hopefully that's it for the cracking [:0]



20063270514_sierra_snakewood.jpg



Oh, and some free wood from BB, Thuya burl & curly Koa


2006327061_sketcher_pen_thuya.jpg
 
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wdcav1952

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Dammit Anthony, I just drilled a piece of snake wood for a Sierra since I hadn't seen one. Not only do you trump me, yours look so good I likely won't even show mine! Nice work, as usual.
 

PenWorks

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William, hurry up and turn it, the sooner you turn it, the sooner it will crack [:D]
Then you can finish it, and show it off [:)]
This photo is kinda of lousy, a quikie, but two are real light and two are real dark.
 

woodpens

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Originally posted by PenWorks
Well everthing went as planned.....
cut and oiled these Friday night....
by Saturday they had all cracked, GREAT !
Filled in the crackes and finished, hopefully that's it for the cracking [:0]
I like your attitude, Anthony! You're experienced enough not to expect Snakewood not to crack. You accept it as a fact and keep on trucking. Your pens are beauties!
 

angboy

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I like that outlook Anthony- include cracking as part of the plan, then you aren't disappointed when it does! Although I wonder if you would have been disappointed if it didn't? [:D]

Anyway, they are very nice looking pens. They show a nice variability that snakewood comes in!
 

PenWorks

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Originally posted by angboy
<br /> Although I wonder if you would have been disappointed if it didn't? [:D]

Kinda yes, I made two closed end Statesmen in Snakewood, the tops have allready cracked, but the pen bodies being a bit thicker have not. Anyone know of the best way to INDUCE cracking [:D]

Thanks for the comments
 

its_virgil

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I think there is a pill for that![:D] Nice looking pens there, Anthony. Don't ya just love snakewood.
Do a good turn daily!
Don
[/quote]
Anyone know of the best way to INDUCE cracking [:D]
[/quote]
 

angboy

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[/quote]

Anyone know of the best way to INDUCE cracking [:D]

Thanks for the comments


[/quote]

I haven't sold any of my pens, but I would bet you induce cracking by NOT planning it into the plan, and having a looming deadline that you have to get the pens to the buyer by, and then you throw in a few hopes that it won't crack, and I bet that'd be a sure fire recipe for a crack! [:D][;)]
 

Johnathan

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Originally posted by PenWorks
<br />
Originally posted by angboy
<br /> Although I wonder if you would have been disappointed if it didn't? [:D]

Kinda yes, I made two closed end Statesmen in Snakewood, the tops have allready cracked, but the pen bodies being a bit thicker have not. Anyone know of the best way to INDUCE cracking [:D]

Thanks for the comments


Yes, find a really bad soprano and ask her to sing! [:p] That should do the trick! Anthony as always, your work looks great.
 

fiferb

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What did you do to repair the cracks? I recently turned some pens in ebony and had some crack on me. I think I was using a dull drill bit. It sure would be nice to be able to repair these but I'm not sure how.
 

fiferb

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Thanks. I'll have to let them sit awhile before finishing. These are already completed and assembled. Anything I can do at this point? I've tried using CA and clamping on one but it didn't close the entire crack.
 

PenWorks

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Trying to repair it while assembled is pretty iffy it will come out right. A suggestion that I used before on ebony is, I filled in the cracks with polymer clay in brite red. It will change the look of the pen, but looks really good.
 

Ravenbsp

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I also make wooden flutes and irish whistles, in addition to pens. Cracking is a constant danger, especially around the metal tuning slide. When I bore the blank, I let it "rest" several weeks. Then I re-bore it using the same bit, more material will be removed because the wood shrinks slightly. If i were to immediately place a tuning slide (much like a brass tube into the barrel of a pen) the blank will eventually crack because the wood will continue to contract over time whereas the metal will not.

This should translate well to pen-work involving suspect woods. I would bore out the blank, if possible rough-turn it to round, and put in a drawer for 2-3 weeks, then re-drill the bore, give it a few more days then glue your tube.

I have a whistle-making comrade that has made a number of snake-wood penny-whistles, without any cracking issues at all using this process.
 
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