Slimline - feedback welcome

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ReverendThom

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This is my 5th Slimline I believe.

1 thing that always seems to happen is the grain fills with dust from sanding. I have been wiping with alcohol between grits but still happens.

Any other feedback and tips welcome, too

*Oh also I seem to get discoloration on the ends too. I did my best and was certain I did not touch the bushings with my tools or sandpaper , but I suppose that's the only explanation?

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fernhills

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Everybody goes to the slimline when they first start. But they are one of the hardest kits to get right. Try some other kits and the go back to the slim and you will be surprised at how easy other kits are. Your pen looks good. Good Luck. Carl
 

chartle

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Pick non open grain wood, but if you must totally fill the grain with sanding sealer or CA before final sanding. Thick enough that its above the level of the grain.
 

magpens

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I agree with Carl about the slimline being the most difficult for beginners.

Everybody goes to the slimline when they first start. But they are one of the hardest kits to get right. Try some other kits and the go back to the slim and you will be surprised at how easy other kits are. Your pen looks good. Good Luck. Carl

The ends of the slimline pens have the thinnest material and experience the highest pressure from sanding ... this can distort the color, depending on the particular wood involved

As far as discoloration from sanding dust, I recommend you try some woods with lighter overall coloration like olivewood, and also woods with a tighter grain pattern like desert iron wood (somewhat difficult to get - try private vendors who advertise on IAP).
 

magpens

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I agree with Carl about the slimline being the most difficult for beginners.

Everybody goes to the slimline when they first start. But they are one of the hardest kits to get right. Try some other kits and the go back to the slim and you will be surprised at how easy other kits are. Your pen looks good. Good Luck. Carl

The ends of the slimline pens have the thinnest material and experience the highest pressure from sanding ... this can distort the color, depending on the particular wood involved

As far as discoloration from sanding dust, I recommend you try some woods with lighter overall coloration like olivewood, and also woods with a tighter grain pattern like desert iron wood (somewhat difficult to get - try private vendors who advertise on IAP). . Turkish wood is available from a vendor who is listed in Vendor Forums. . Some of the better woods tend to be a little expensive.
 

ReverendThom

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I agree with Carl about the slimline being the most difficult for beginners.

Everybody goes to the slimline when they first start. But they are one of the hardest kits to get right. Try some other kits and the go back to the slim and you will be surprised at how easy other kits are. Your pen looks good. Good Luck. Carl

The ends of the slimline pens have the thinnest material and experience the highest pressure from sanding ... this can distort the color, depending on the particular wood involved

As far as discoloration from sanding dust, I recommend you try some woods with lighter overall coloration like olivewood, and also woods with a tighter grain pattern like desert iron wood (somewhat difficult to get - try private vendors who advertise on IAP). . Turkish wood is available from a vendor who is listed in Vendor Forums. . Some of the better woods tend to be a little expensive.
There's an olive and maple burl I've done. You're right on the colour. Helpful tip. Thanks
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dogcatcher

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I think the Slimline is a good kit to start with because most of the potential problems and solutions are learned at the lowest cost. After a few Slimlines, there are a lot of turners that move on their first kitless pen, using just the tubes and transmission. In other words it is a good teaching aide.
 

Woodchipper

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I keep a couple of cans of the dust remover for computers, etc. by the workbench and lathe. I use them to blow off dust from the mandrel and the blank. I keep the Shop Vac hose near the turning to catch the. Tried wiping with various cloths but found they left fuzzies which made it worse.
BTW, Santa came early and brought an air compressor and some attachments. Don't need the cans.
 

its_virgil

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The problems you are having are not inherent with the slimline. They are not even related to the pen kit choice.

The sanding dust filling the open grain is NOT a slimline problem but a wood choice problem. Two solutions: do not use open grain wood or catch sanding dust on a piece of sandpaper. With the blank spinning slowly hold the dust collected on the paper under the blank and drizzle CA on top allowing the CA to pick up the dust forming a slurry. Let the slurry coat the blank filling the open grain . I do this on ALL wood blanks. I use thin but you may want to use medium until you get the technique down.

The dark smears on the end are a result of sanding into the bushings and spreading metal dust onto the end of the blanks. The solution is obvious..stay off the bushings. Sand between centers or use special non metal bushing for sanding and finishing. Not sanding the bushings is not difficult to learn. Turn down your aggressiviness.

Do a good turn daily!
Don
 

ReverendThom

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I keep a couple of cans of the dust remover for computers, etc. by the workbench and lathe. I use them to blow off dust from the mandrel and the blank. I keep the Shop Vac hose near the turning to catch the. Tried wiping with various cloths but found they left fuzzies which made it worse.
BTW, Santa came early and brought an air compressor and some attachments. Don't need the cans.
Oh I have an air compressor!

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ReverendThom

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With the blank spinning slowly hold the dust collected on the paper under the blank and drizzle CA on top allowing the CA to pick up the dust forming a slurry. Let the slurry coat the blank filling the open grain . I do this on ALL wood blanks. I use thin but you may want to use medium until you get the technique down.

Don

Thanks for your tips, Don. I might give this one a shot.

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Dehn0045

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Pretty frequently I'll sand thru the CA on the ends and it will cause a faded look. If there's a sheen, then it's a different problem, but hard to tell from the pic. Is that purpleheart? If so, you can try heating with a small torch to bring out the purple (prior to finishing). Nice looking pens, you're off to a good start!
 

Lucky2

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Thom, I had problems with the ends of my blanks, being black when finished turning also. All I did to solve the problem, was use a bit of CA glue on the ends of the blanks before turning them. Doing that, solved the problem. So now right after squaring the blank ends, I coat them with CA glue. Just be cautious to not get any of the glue inside the brass tube, that makes it difficult to assemble the pen afterwards.
Len
 

leehljp

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One thing not mentioned or asked yet: Do you wipe down the blanks with alcohol or a wet cloth? If you are touching the bushings as Don Ward and others said, that is the problem. But if you are using a wet wipe on cleaning, that will leach the dust into the ends.

Next, get a pair of good calipers from Harbor Freight and learn to turn by measuring instead of using bushings. There are a couple of places that sells TBC (turning between centers) centers and this will prevent the bushing sanding dust.
 
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ReverendThom

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One thing not mentioned or asked yet: Do you wipe down the blanks with alcohol or a wet cloth? If you are touching the bushings as Don Ward and others said, that is the problem. But if you are using a wet wipe on cleaning, that will leach the dust into the ends.

Next, get a pair of good calipers from Harbor Freight and learn to turn by measuring instead of using bushings. There are a couple of places that sells TBC (turning between centers) centers and this will prevent the bushing sanding dust.

Yes, I have been using alcohol the past couple pens between grits. So I need to be more careful not only with my tools and sandpaper but with my wiping I suppose. Thanks!
 

Dehn0045

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I'm with Hank, TBC is a great technique. The only downside I've observed is that I forget about some of these problems and how I overcame them, lol
 

Lucky2

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Tohm, instead of alcohol, you should try using pre-paint. It's a product that auto body workers use to wipe down a car just before painting it. It's great for this type of work, especially, if your working with oily wood. It removes all dirt and oil from your hands, and it evaporates away. Wear vinyl or plastic gloves, it will remove all the oil from your fingers. It isn't very expensive, and make sure you put the lid back on tight asap. Otherwise, you'll be allowing it evaporate away. I use a fair amount of this stuff in a year, it's great for removing grease from an exhaust vent, or anything else that is greasy or oily.
Len
 
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