A Simple Silver, Opal and PR Pen

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mredburn

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First I would like thank all of you that voted for my pen in the Freestyle contest.
I thought I would share with all of you the making of the pen.

Like most of my pens its starts as a doodle. I draw it a couple or more times tweaking it, changing it back. redrawing it, until I have the concept down to where I want it. I then take and draw it in my cad program. I draw it flat and then have the program wrap it around the diameter tube I want to make.
rhino%2520drawing%2520of%2520pen.jpg


The drawing is then ran through a Cad Program and then cut on a cnc mill in wax. Now if you were to think I dont have a failures you would be wrong. The first wax was cut off axis. I didnt get it pathed right in the program. Back to the computer and do it again. The second wax I tried to drill out after it was properly cut.
OOPS!
broken%2520wax.JPG


I had to pre drill the wax and put a brass tube in it to support the wax before I cut the pattern onto it with the mill. I thought I had taken a picture of the completed waxes but if I did I cant find them. I then remove the brass tube and cast the waxes in to silver. IF the casting fails I have to start all over and the waxes take a full day to cut.
Fortunatly I have a bit of practice casting and we have no problems with the casting. Here is the cap cast in silver
Iap%2520competition%2520pen%25205.JPG


and the bottom
iap%25202013%2520comp%2520pen%25201.JPG


Next I make the cap Finials and front section and make sure everything fits

wip2.JPG
Wip1.JPG


I then start cutting the red flowers on the cnc mill out of synthetic opal. I have to cut the chunks of material into the proper thickness slabs about 1.5mm (.060) thick
I took the first one and with a jewelers saw cut the slit to fit her hand into. THe one that she is holding. I was originally going to use a blue opal for the flowers on the rest of the pen but they were designed to small and didnt tie in to the one she is holding so I made them all red flowers. As I cut them I started epoxying them in place. I made the blue end pieces and glue them in. WHile Im cutting the small squares for the halo and the rest of the pieces I mix up some resin and apply it with toothpick to the body of the girl. I used antique white rather than a pure white and let it cure.
wip4.JPG
wip5.JPG

Next I start the meticulous job of fitting all the small pieces into the hallo. They all need just a little trimming to fit. Next I make and fit all the blue opal into the rings at the center band and ends of the silver tubes.
I owe the next step to Ed (Parkland Turner and BradG) their discussion on applying the resin while rotating allowed me to figure out how to get the resin on. However I ran into a problem. I intended to have a dark green base at the bottom and have it transform into blue as it went up the pen and then finally to a lighter blue at the cap top. Well this was my first attempt ever at rotary applications of PR. The rotary apparatus I built evidently wasnt quite level. All the green ran from the bottom to the other end mixing in with the blue and making it the ugliest combo of almost black blue-green yo have ever seen.
Pictures of the disaster.
DSC_0002.JPG
DSC_0003.JPG


I had to take a ball burr and cut all the resin back off the pen. Sorry for the blurred picture of the blank after I removed all the resin.
DSC_0006.JPG

I then re applied the resin using a dark blue. There is a technique to the application that helps if you can vary the rotational speed of the piece. I globbed the resin on let it dry and then mounted them and turned them down to size. The opal matrix will dull a HSS cutter in nothing flat. I used a carbide cutter to trim it to size. It is then sanded and polished along normal lines using MM and Novus scratch polish. I made a delrin Insert for the cap that you cant see and threaded it m10x.75. I finished the pen up in record time for me and actually had 3 hours left before the entry time would expire. The red opal shows red or gold depending on the angle you look at it.

Some pretty pictures of the pen.
fs2013-1.JPG
2013%2520Freestyle%25201.JPG


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fs2013-10.JPG


I realize I should have taken a few more pictures to help illustrate the processes but I was pretty busy at the time I had to get it done. I had good intentions.

Comments, Questions ? All are welcome.
 
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thats it? you mean we gave you credit for nothing but about 100 hours of work that 99.9% would never dream of even trying much less doing anywhere near this??? ...What the saying..."I could do that if I wanted to...I just dont want to"

You sir are amazing what you can produce.
 

RichF

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Mount Laurel, NJ
The title says it all...simple.:biggrin: Simple only in terms of matching the pen with the maker. You do have a way of makining it look and sound easy. But this is a masterpiece. Absolutely astounding work. You continue to push the bar higher each year.
 

healeydays

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So you do all that is an afternoon right?

That is one of the finest pens I have seen here and the process you go thru to pull that off is mind-numbing.
 

mredburn

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So you do all that is an afternoon right?

That is one of the finest pens I have seen here and the process you go thru to pull that off is mind-numbing.

Yes if its one of Alaska's 6 month days. It took about 10 days to Make.
 

RichF

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Mike, I forgot to mention that you need to update you signature block. You definitely earned the next level of Pen Wizardry with this pen. :biggrin:
 

Russknan

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Mike, that was a very beautiful and impressive pen. Stunning, really. But then reading what you went through to make that wonderful piece of art took it to a whole new dimension. Thanks for sharing. Russ
 

seamus7227

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I am speechless, yet not surprised one bit that you could pull this off! Very well done in the execution and completion of the final pen.
 

monark88

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As Jason said, beating me to the punch, "I could do that if I wanted to...I just don't want to".

Fantastic talent, I'm gonna bet this isn't a "give away pen".
 

mredburn

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I have really enjoyed the challenges and results of this pen. I still have room for improvement. I will probably hang on to it. I am thinking of where this will lead me for future designs. The blank really opens up a lot of designs for me. I believe that BradG used a rotisserie motor. I have a 15rpm geared motor from something that I had that I made a Quick adapter for. It worked but as I said I didnt level it the first time and the pr ran toward the low end and dripped off and made a mess of the original design. I had to stuff a couple Popsicle sticks under the front to level it. I have an ac/dc low 15rpm I can put one of the router controls on and vary the speed for the next one. Different diameters seem to need different speeds for the best results. Even the straight 15 rpm worked. I did one on the 15rpm and at the same time did one tube on my lathe with variable speed and you can adjust the speed so the pr doesnt really move much as it rotates. I also used a clamp on light as a heat source to help harden the PR. Kind of like running water not freezing it doesnt set as fast as the left overs in the mixing cup.
 

Ed McDonnell

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Hi Mike - When I'm rotocasting I use Silmar 249 instead of 41. It's a better choice for the thin fills. With multi colors, I also use at least the full recommended amount of MEKP (10 drops / ounce). Waiting until closer to gel will also minimize the color mixing, but that can get dicey if you wait just a little too long. 249 with full MEKP sets pretty quick.

I use my lathe where the minimum rpm is 50. I find 80 - 90 rpm to be ideal. It allows a good amount of resin to be held, but doesn't create too much of a problem with standing waves developing.


Ed
 

mredburn

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Thanks Ed. Great information. I may have to get a faster turning motor.

I think on my lathe I was about around 65 or so. I have 249 but didnt think to try it. It may have been a better product. On the slower one I just built the stuff up thick and later turned it off. I was close on the MEKP but not that strong.
 

Turned Around

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man, how can i compete with the rest of you guys?
that thing is beautiful. i could see it looking good without the colors as well. just polished would look slick as well. the floral design on the cap is my favorite.

if you don't mind my asking, what were you planning on selling it for?
and what CNC mill did you use? i've been looking at some lately. i like the work that one does.
 

mredburn

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I have 2 cnc mills this was made on A taig Mill with a 4th axis add on. The other is a home built that I built using the Taig. I dont sell pens. but I value it at $1800.00
 

BradG

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Mike the motor I used came from a microwave. Around 5rpm I had the same issue as my pieces were tapered but I was only using clear so didnt matter. Could you of coloured the background in different colours and then cast in clear? Looks fantastic anyway as I've said in pm
 

mredburn

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Brad I thought about it but the sides of the silver and opal pieces would show through the clear resin. I wanted the continuous surface on the pen.
 

MarkD

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That's a real masterpiece Mike. You are an incredibility talented and patient man!
 

ironman123

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A Simple Silver, Opal and PR Pen

Pretty good Mike. You are right, it is a very simple pen.:biggrin::biggrin::biggrin: Just one of the Florida showoffs:biggrin::biggrin::biggrin:.

Kidding aside, it is a fabulous looking piece of Art. You are way above my talent and skill levels. Keep up the quality and keep learning.


Which CAD program do you use and do you also use Aspire?

Great stuff Mike.

Ray
 
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Triple Crown

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Jan 18, 2012
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Alexandria, Virginia
Incredible!

Hi Mike,

Wow!!!! That is so awesome!! I really liked this pen in the contest, but seeing how you did it, I have fallen in love with it! :redface: I love the silverwork, the intricate design, and the colors! It is just absolutely beautiful! Thank you so much for sharing how you made this!!

Greg
 
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