Retrying Enduro

[malathan]

...and still not fully happy. Trying to use the beall buff, starting at white diamond, but even after 5 days of it curing, white diamond still ate into the finish, like melting it. Reapplied and this time only did the renaissance wax and buffing after enduro. I think I put too much renaissance wax on (letting dry completely before buffing) as little fibers and hairs from buff were trapped in it.

"Oh, where are you you perfect finish?! Come rescue me..."

Wood is Spalted English Birch.

 

[wdcav1952]

Clayton,

Did you use BLO on the pen at all? In my shop at least, BLO makes getting a decent Enduro finish very difficult. I follow Wayne's procedure that is archived here at the site, letting bothe the sealer and the poly cure overnight. Another consideration is the weather. If it is freezing in your shop overnight, the Enduro likely will not cure as well. Consider using a small curing rack and bring the project in at night. Use Micro mesh to smooth and polish the sealer before starting the poly. The sealer should be so smooth and shiny that the pen almost looks finished before you start the poly. After the poly has cured, use the micromesh again, and let set a few days before assembly. You might want to skip the white diamonds. I find it very easy to get too aggressive with a buff on a pen.

Good luck,

 

[wayneis]

Buffing as you found will melt the finish. The way that I do it as described in my instructions come out looking just like a good CA finish.

Wayne

 

[Mikey]

I do not have a buffing system, but have used the MM method as described by Wayne. I have not found that the finish comes off at all. I use the sealer first on every pen, then sand with MM, then finish coats.

 

[ldimick]

Mike,

On my Enduro finish the LAST thing I do is give it a 1-2 minute covering of TSW and then polish with a buffing wheel. No buffing compounds just a soft rag rotating. If you are not careful you can melt it but all you are trying to do is remove the TSW and leave some shine.

Just looking at your picture a couple of things come to mind. Maybe a thicker coat of Enduro and some lighter sanding between coats.

 

[malathan]

Applying finish, I did the following:

1) Apply Arm-r-seal (oil/urathane sealer), 1 thin coat. Let dry for 6 hours.
2) Lightly sand MM through 12000
3) Add 3 coats of Lacquer sanding sealer. Let dry 1 hour.
4) Lightly sand MM through 12000
5) Add 4 coats of Enduro. Let dry 24 hours.
6) Sand with 600 grit to smooth, then MM through 12000
7) Let cure for 5 days or so.
8) Apply Renaissance wax, let dry, buff with last wheel from beall system. 3 coats.

This was of course my last finish. I actually redid this pen 3x. First I noticed some grain tear that wasn't happy with and returned to remove (found out it wasn't tear, but grain effect), so a concaved pen became a straight cut pen. 2, I messed up on finish, using white diamond to buff and melting finish (this was at step 8 above). So last finish attempt I didn't do any wd, but just the ren wax and light buffing.

As far as doing enduro finish, are you suppose to sand between the coats? Maybe that is what my problem is as I don't sand between them.

 

[Old Griz]

Clayton, why are you trying to re-invent the wheel...
Wayne perfected the Enduro finish and was kind enough to write a tutorial that explains the best way to do it... I hve been using it for some time exactly like he recommends and get a sweet glass like finish every time.
Applying an oil finish under a water based finish is never recommended...
Just print out the tutorial that Wayne did and follow that step by step with no deviation and I am pretty sure you are going to be pleasantly surprised...

 

[malathan]

I did the oil with a lacquer sealer betwen it and enduro, trying to pop the grain more. When I ordered Enduro, they didn't mention the amber tinting and I didn't think of asking them (didn't know of such things then). The amber tinting gives the wood the same effect as popping the grain when applying oil (supposedly).

 

[wdcav1952]

Clayton,
Griz hit the nail on the head. Do NOT use any oil finishes. Print out the directions and follow them and you will get good results. Wayne spent many hours developing the process and it works when you follow the directions.

edited for spelling

 

[wayneis]

Someone around here was told that all of the Enduro comes with the tint already mixed in. I've never felt the need to do anything other than what I have already described. I have been doing woodworking for thirty or so years and the finish that I get with my method is pretty damn good.

Wayne

 

[challagan]

Where do you buy Enduro?

Thanks,
corey

 

[jwoodwright]

I was thinking the same thing and I saw that Tom said it. No oil under water based finish. Same thing painting a room that had oil based paint. Use Kilz primer and then latex of your choice.

 

[wayneis]

www.compliantspraysystems.com You have to call their eight hundred number and ask for their Wat-R-Based starter kit, if you tell them you make pens they will know what you want.

Wayne