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Sandsini

Member
Joined
May 11, 2014
Messages
437
Location
Lake Arrowhead, California
Hi Everybody,
I haven't posted much lately. I've been busy with the new house and a couple of big jobs. I received an order for 13 Statesman Rollerballs in Monoswirl Avocado for a hotel in the Cayman Islands, and put together a display for a gallery in Santa Fe. There have been some regular sales since then but I have finally been able to make some pens for the heck of it.

First up is the Gallery Order:
 

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Sandsini

Member
Joined
May 11, 2014
Messages
437
Location
Lake Arrowhead, California
Here are some of the pens I've done since:
 

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Sandsini

Member
Joined
May 11, 2014
Messages
437
Location
Lake Arrowhead, California
Thanks, the Emperors are favorites of mine as well. One was done in a black resin with pearl white stripes and the other is 7000 year old Russian Bog Oak. I applied thin CA to the bog oak and then sanded it with 400, finishing it with MM. I like a more natural finish with this wood, it gives it some presence.
 
Last edited:

Sandsini

Member
Joined
May 11, 2014
Messages
437
Location
Lake Arrowhead, California
Would you mind sharing your finishing process for the non-wood pens?

Its funny that you would ask me that as I am kind of transitioning my process. I have, up until now, finished my resins pretty fine with a skew, then use either 400 or 500 grit sandpaper on the lathe, finishing up with the lathe off and sanding across the length of the blanks. Then, I would use MicroMesh, wet, through all the steps, and finish with Stick Fast's medium and fine polishes.

Lately, however, I have replaced the MicroMesh and polish steps with a buffing wheel. I use Tripoli, and with the blanks still mounted to the mandrel, buff them diagonally, in both directions. Then I move to the White Diamond wheel, do the same thing, then finish with buffing along the length of the blanks.

Most of the pens I made in the Gallery shipment were MicroMeshed, while most of the pens after that were buffed on the wheel. I still MicroMesh some materials, I like the way that the fine sandpapers continue to level the material more evenly than the buffing wheel.

I've had my buffing system for a while and just really started using it when I did the 13 pen order as it was faster and I really liked the results.
 

TonyL

Member
Joined
Mar 9, 2014
Messages
8,915
Location
Georgia
Thank you. I don't think you can go wrong with either process - both are producing amazing results! I have not found a way to sand at less than 4k MM (wet). Since using a skew, I can start at 320 or 400, but I still need to go to 4k, followed by Meguire's 105 and 205 polish. In fact, I traded my buffing system (the BG one, not the one you are using) because I was getting better results with the meguire's. I inspect all of my work under 10x magnification until there are no visible signs of radial scratches. Some think I am "crazy" for doing so, but that is what I consider "finished" for my own work. Very, very nice and thanks for sharing!

I also own close to 10 polishes that claim no sanding after 600...they have not come close to that - at least when I apply them. It could be me :).
 

Sandsini

Member
Joined
May 11, 2014
Messages
437
Location
Lake Arrowhead, California
Thank you. I don't think you can go wrong with either process - both are producing amazing results! I have not found a way to sand at less than 4k MM (wet). Since using a skew, I can start at 320 or 400, but I still need to go to 4k, followed by Meguire's 105 and 205 polish. In fact, I traded my buffing system (the BG one, not the one you are using) because I was getting better results with the meguire's. I inspect all of my work under 10x magnification until there are no visible signs of radial scratches. Some think I am "crazy" for doing so, but that is what I consider "finished" for my own work. Very, very nice and thanks for sharing!

I also own close to 10 polishes that claim no sanding after 600...they have not come close to that - at least when I apply them. It could be me :).

Thanks Tony, its very nice to hear your input. I am a car nut and am just recently going back to Meguire's products after trying a stint with someone else. My last couple of cars were white and silver and the product that seemed to work well there, is not up to snuff on my new black car, so I switched back and the difference is night and day. I haven't tried Meguire's for penmaking other than using the ultimate detailer for a nice wipe down before I ship a sold order out. I think I'm going to have to try the polishes you are using.

By the way, I see Barry Meguire all the time, here in SoCal at the local Cars and Coffee... Great guy!
 

TonyL

Member
Joined
Mar 9, 2014
Messages
8,915
Location
Georgia
My cars have been dark colors or black for the last 20 years. I have tried many of the products out there - including the boutique products. What I really like as a "wax" is Rejex. In fact, it is what I use as the last step on all of my pens. It is just for protection and a little extra shine - there's no abrasive in it. I don't see a reason for you to switch your pen finish process. I will pm u my number and I will tell you all that I tried and (and I stopped lengthwise sanding). I am really eager to see pens sanded to 400 or 600 followed with a polish and not have fine radial scratches. I can't get there yet.
 

Sandsini

Member
Joined
May 11, 2014
Messages
437
Location
Lake Arrowhead, California
My cars have been dark colors or black for the last 20 years. I have tried many of the products out there - including the boutique products. What I really like as a "wax" is Rejex. In fact, it is what I use as the last step on all of my pens. It is just for protection and a little extra shine - there's no abrasive in it. I don't see a reason for you to switch your pen finish process. I will pm u my number and I will tell you all that I tried and (and I stopped lengthwise sanding). I am really eager to see pens sanded to 400 or 600 followed with a polish and not have fine radial scratches. I can't get there yet.

I actually enjoy the final sanding and polishing process. It allows me to actually sit down decompress after the main prep and turning. and I like seeing the material improve with every step.
 
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