I started a thread in General Conversation about Pine Wood still saturated with sap. I received several suggestions and this is what I ended up with. Thanks again for your ideas. The insert is Olive Wood and the caps and bottom barrel are Pine. The black and white stripes are guitar pick guard. Everything is crosscut so there would be more grain showing than just a few lines if it were cut with the grain. thanks
I never saw your Pine thread so, I don't know what was said about the Pine, the title of this thread is something that I never contemplate in a wood mix whatever, that doesn't make it any better or any worse, and believe it or not, many here will validate that, those 2 wood species are indeed, 2 of my most preferred ones.
I only would like to make some annotation in relation to the "sap" that most Pine species produce, some a lot more than others and that is, one of the easiest and most efficient ways to "remove" or should I say, "cancel" the stickiness of the pine sapwood, is to "crystallize" it, and for that, you need to "roast" the wood, you need to exert sufficient temperature in the wood to make the liquid sap to dry out and solidify, which is called crystallizing.
This is also true for oily woods, if the wood is "cooked/roasted" in an oven for long enough at temperatures that will prevent burning (70 to 80C are OK), the wood cell will dry and any liquid sap/resin/oil will solidify without compromising the normal wood behaviour, allowing any type of finish to be added, without any issue.
Remember that, oily and resinated woods, will bleed easily but friction, this is the reason why, woods in this category that are not crystallized properly, any finish where a rubbing motion is required (burnishing...!) will promote bleeding (sap or oils to come to the surface)...!
Hope this helps.
Cheers
George
