Photos of some test designs.

Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad
See more from smik

smik

Member
Joined
Apr 12, 2013
Messages
234
Location
Ohio
Some blanks and pens I've been working on, test designs, some finished and others only sanded. Not where I want the quality to be but working on improving.
 

Attachments

  • blanks and pen reduced to 800 pixel.jpg
    blanks and pen reduced to 800 pixel.jpg
    135.7 KB · Views: 458
  • p2-reduced pixel to 800.jpg
    p2-reduced pixel to 800.jpg
    201.6 KB · Views: 497
  • upbright blanks reduced to 800 pixel.jpg
    upbright blanks reduced to 800 pixel.jpg
    145.5 KB · Views: 414
Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad

smik

Member
Joined
Apr 12, 2013
Messages
234
Location
Ohio
Thanks for input. I agree plan on doing undercuts but like the raised appearance.
 

smik

Member
Joined
Apr 12, 2013
Messages
234
Location
Ohio
JT using a cnc router with a 4th axis to cut rotational work. Took a bit to refine the process to make it somewhat reasonable timewise. Longest time so far is the 50 gold piece, ran a bit over an hour.
 

OZturner

Member
Joined
Aug 5, 2013
Messages
6,663
Location
Sydney. NSW. Australia
A Great Assembly of Pens and Blanks, Stan.
The CNC 4th Axis, certainly opens up a Wide Field of Opportunity for Fantastic Designs, with both Cutters and Laser.
Excellent Work.
Congratulations,
Brian.
 

magpens

Member
Joined
Feb 2, 2011
Messages
15,913
Location
Canada
Those are fantastic, Stan !!!!! . What CNC machine are you using, and what software, pls ?
 

smik

Member
Joined
Apr 12, 2013
Messages
234
Location
Ohio
Thanks for the comments appreciated. Machine is from plans from fineline automation and cncrouter parts. I purchased some items from them and others I sourced out.
The 4th axis is of my own design but basic concept is same as all.
Software is Vectric Aspire and Vcarve Pro. Relief image from vectorart 3d and vectorclip3d. I also use image and designs from Dover arts.
 

smik

Member
Joined
Apr 12, 2013
Messages
234
Location
Ohio
Herb these are for you. Bottom made mistake and didnt center so cut is offcenter. The design and or cutting parameters need further adjusting to get top part of violin strings to cut. Bottom piece has .015 doc and top .025. Top lemonwood bottom maple.
 

Attachments

  • violins 2-500 pixel.jpg
    violins 2-500 pixel.jpg
    91.8 KB · Views: 223

Gin N' Tonic

Member
Joined
Oct 30, 2009
Messages
285
Location
Waterbury Ct. USA
Very nice work.

I have a Taig CNC mill with a 4th axis that I bought a few years ago and never really found the time to really give it a workout. It is on my list of things to accomplish and I hope to get the shop all cleaned out and back in operation this summer. I'm beginning to really miss turning and I need to get off my butt and get back into it.
 

stuckinohio

Member
Joined
May 3, 2015
Messages
1,695
Location
Columbus Ohio
Oh boy. These are awesome. I just saw them on Facebook too.

Where do you live in Ohio if you don't mind me asking. If you don't want to say, maybe a general section of Ohio?

Lewis
 

swcrawford

Member
Joined
Jul 2, 2013
Messages
31
These are very cool. I'm using a self built a plywood cnc with a very basic 4th axis built just for trying out carving on pens. It's just a 1/4" rod coupled directly to a stepper with a tailstock holder for a mandrel saver. I've done some basic vcarving but nothing like this. Also using vectric aspire.

I'd love to try something similar. Any chance of hearing more about your workflow with these blanks? Bits you are using, etc?
 

smik

Member
Joined
Apr 12, 2013
Messages
234
Location
Ohio
Thanks.

Taig makes a nice and tight machine. I'm looking to travel the 50 states in couple years or less and was interested in taking my turning with me.
Was looking into the idea of using the Taig traveling being smaller and lighter.



Very nice work.

I have a Taig CNC mill with a 4th axis that I bought a few years ago and never really found the time to really give it a workout. It is on my list of things to accomplish and I hope to get the shop all cleaned out and back in operation this summer. I'm beginning to really miss turning and I need to get off my butt and get back into it.
 

smik

Member
Joined
Apr 12, 2013
Messages
234
Location
Ohio
Oh boy. These are awesome. I just saw them on Facebook too.

Where do you live in Ohio if you don't mind me asking. If you don't want to say, maybe a general section of Ohio?

Lewis

Thanks Lewis.

I border Cleveland in Euclid couple miles from the lake.
 

eharri446

Member
Joined
Mar 17, 2016
Messages
1,035
Location
Marietta, GA
Stan, the last one with the violin would look super if it was cast in either Alumilite or PR. Then the engraving would not have a chance to wear off due to handling and usage.
 

smik

Member
Joined
Apr 12, 2013
Messages
234
Location
Ohio
These are very cool. I'm using a self built a plywood cnc with a very basic 4th axis built just for trying out carving on pens. It's just a 1/4" rod coupled directly to a stepper with a tailstock holder for a mandrel saver. I've done some basic vcarving but nothing like this. Also using vectric aspire.

I'd love to try something similar. Any chance of hearing more about your workflow with these blanks? Bits you are using, etc?

I use engraving bits. Can get from bits&bits or precise bits or others that sell them. Workflow keeping proprietary for now. I'd like to recoup some of my investment if possible. After that I'm open to share.
 

smik

Member
Joined
Apr 12, 2013
Messages
234
Location
Ohio
Are you going to the Ohio get together February 25th or the MPG in April?

Lewis

Oh boy. These are awesome. I just saw them on Facebook too.

Where do you live in Ohio if you don't mind me asking. If you don't want to say, maybe a general section of Ohio?

Lewis

Thanks Lewis.

I border Cleveland in Euclid couple miles from the lake.

I am planning on going to the Feb 25th get together depending on weather.
My beater car is not capable of long distance travel and my other car will depend on snow. I picked up a Smart car with intent to haul behind rv. Not sure how it will take the snow.

Thanks Stan
 

smik

Member
Joined
Apr 12, 2013
Messages
234
Location
Ohio
Stan, the last one with the violin would look super if it was cast in either Alumilite or PR. Then the engraving would not have a chance to wear off due to handling and usage.

Elwin

I am looking into the idea. When working with the blanks I have a limited amount of wall to work with. If I do a recess cut I could cut to the tube enhance the cut to stand out then cast. Currently I do not do any casting. I do have some Alumilite on hand thats over 2-3 yrs old. For a 3d cut many of the patterns would lose their resolution. Each design has a sweet spot where the minimum depth of cut is needed for an acceptable image. I may experiment with one today see if I can come up with anything.

Thanks Stan
 

smik

Member
Joined
Apr 12, 2013
Messages
234
Location
Ohio
These are very cool. I'm using a self built a plywood cnc with a very basic 4th axis built just for trying out carving on pens. It's just a 1/4" rod coupled directly to a stepper with a tailstock holder for a mandrel saver. I've done some basic vcarving but nothing like this. Also using vectric aspire.

I'd love to try something similar. Any chance of hearing more about your workflow with these blanks? Bits you are using, etc?

Let me add about the workflow. Workholding similar if turning a blank on wood lathe but only 1 blank at a time. Indicate shaft to .001 - .002 over work length and maintain concentricity. I also use the mach 3 digitize function to set cutter c/l. You can either use a endmill and rough and finish turn the blank or turn on the wood lathe. This way engraving cutter will not have to deal with interrupted cuts and hog too much material. I highly recommend using proximity switches, will make your life easier in setup. You also need to have a ridgid setup, my first build i made from 2x4's and now the 8020 aluminum structure. The artwork is a big factor. Aspire has a really good collection, also checkout vectorart3d and vectorclip3d. When I cut a new design I usually tweak the size, position and depth until it looks good to me. Some designs get lost in certain woods and need some form of enhancing. When using acrylics the images get lost and I dont find that material good for use when doing the 3d images. If doing pocket or vcarve designs that lends to using other media to enhance the design and can allow for acrylic blank use.
Checkout the vectric training videos. Also legacy cnc has good videos on youtube. Get some nice ideas from there. Show us some of your work.

http://support.vectric.com/tutorials/V8/Rotary25D/Rotary25D_PRO.html
 

swcrawford

Member
Joined
Jul 2, 2013
Messages
31
Thanks very much for the extra information!

My work holding strategy definitely needs work with my (admittedly low rent) setup.

With v-carving I have turned the blank to finished size and used regular bushings to mount the blank on the 1/4 threaded rod with two nuts either side tightened against the blank to hold it still on the rod.

I'm assuming this would not work for 3d carving since the metal bushing is right up against the blank and the bit needs to cut up to the end. I was thinking instead of using the bushings I would turn a cylindrical shim from hardwood to go between the blank and the rod then use small sacrificial wood spacers either side of the blank to tighten the nuts against.

As far as bits, I have some 15 degree .004 point engraving bits I have experimented with before. Is this in the right neighborhood for trying this out?

Again, thanks for all the info.
 

Attachments

  • rotary_web.jpg
    rotary_web.jpg
    54.1 KB · Views: 151

smik

Member
Joined
Apr 12, 2013
Messages
234
Location
Ohio
Thanks very much for the extra information!

My work holding strategy definitely needs work with my (admittedly low rent) setup.

With v-carving I have turned the blank to finished size and used regular bushings to mount the blank on the 1/4 threaded rod with two nuts either side tightened against the blank to hold it still on the rod.

I'm assuming this would not work for 3d carving since the metal bushing is right up against the blank and the bit needs to cut up to the end. I was thinking instead of using the bushings I would turn a cylindrical shim from hardwood to go between the blank and the rod then use small sacrificial wood spacers either side of the blank to tighten the nuts against.

As far as bits, I have some 15 degree .004 point engraving bits I have experimented with before. Is this in the right neighborhood for trying this out?

Again, thanks for all the info.

The cutters should be good, is that the included or per side angle. I think mine are 30 included. Another thing take a close look at the pens in the photo with the 3d design. Heres a hint "think outside the box".

Have fun.
 

smik

Member
Joined
Apr 12, 2013
Messages
234
Location
Ohio
Shawn - Here's an example of an acrylic blank and not working out so well. Not enough contrast. It's an elephant hard to tell, figured grey elephant grey blank. Camera had a hard time focusing on the image. Looks somewhat better in person.
 

Attachments

  • elephant reduced.jpg
    elephant reduced.jpg
    86.5 KB · Views: 146

smik

Member
Joined
Apr 12, 2013
Messages
234
Location
Ohio
Keep an eye on tip for breakage, at that angle tip is weaker. Gives nice detail though. Here's a blank in lemonwood same elephant off the mill and with some highlighting.
 

Attachments

  • elephant -1 -1.jpg
    elephant -1 -1.jpg
    80.2 KB · Views: 142
  • elephant -1 reduced.jpg
    elephant -1 reduced.jpg
    87.8 KB · Views: 156

smik

Member
Joined
Apr 12, 2013
Messages
234
Location
Ohio
is that the included or per side angle.

I believe they are 15 included angle, 1/8" shaft, .004" tip.

Now to find a 3d model to practice with :)

Here's what my reference to think outside the box meant. Draw your cylinder of the blank and finish dimension. Then determine where your 3d image is and what it looks like. You will need to do some calculations, actually Aspire does for you when setting up with wrapped job setup, x is determined by the blank length. Now what will z and y dimensions be and what determines those values. Same as when you did the vcarve setup slightly different thinking.
 

swcrawford

Member
Joined
Jul 2, 2013
Messages
31
That's what I need practice to get my head around. It seems as though:

1. The finished blank needs to be X inches in diameter as determined by the kit hardware.
2. The 3D carving will be at most Y height above the finished blank diameter.
3. I need to start with a blank that is X/2+Y radius (or X+[Y*2] diameter however you want to look at it). This would be the value I enter for material thickness in the wrapped job setup.

I've done very little 3D work, so I need to do a lot of playing around in Aspire to figure out how to set it up. For some reason it isn't terribly intuitive to me.
 

smik

Member
Joined
Apr 12, 2013
Messages
234
Location
Ohio
Yes correct. Your y value is (PI x blank size) I made an excel spreadsheet and let it calculatefor me. Make some cuts and verify you are getting what you expect. Tweak the numbers to either cut above or below the finish dia depending on how you want to finish blank off. You can create a o/s blank and just do straight cuts to verify accuracy and just change settings lower for next cut. Looking forward to seeing some of your finished work. Once you work with it will come easier. It took me awhile to understand the software and create a method. I'll let you figure out cutting parameters and approach, you will learn and understand the machine better that way, and you may come up with something a lot better.
 
Top Bottom