Nolan's Two Tone Amboyna Burl

[Tanner]

I'm just throwing this one up to show the great wood that I just received from Nolan. It turned real nice and had everything from Burls, two tone, great color and even had some nice curl in some areas. Thanks again Nolan.

 

[LostintheWoods]

Wow! Character AND personality! Excellent job, Tim.

 

[jttheclockman]

That is one great looking pen. May I ask a couple questions?? What kit is that??? How do you finish your pens??? What would a pen such as that go for pricewise??? I am just getting into pen turning and just marvel at the quality you pen turners put out. The photograghy is great too.

 

[Stevej72]

Wow Tim, that is an awesome pen! What a great looking piece of wood.

 

[Marc Phillips]

Wow... great piece of wood, great finish, great pic!

 

[Tanner]

Thanks Guys. John, It's a Sedona Gold Titanium from Arizona Silhouette. It's a new kit from them that is similar to a Baron but with a round top. The finish is CA. Two coats thin and two coats thick, wiped on with a Viva paper towel. MM through 12,000 grit. I finished it up with White Diamond on a buffing wheel, then Hut's Ultra High Gloss Plastic Polish and as always finished it up with TSW. Sounds like a lot, but each step only takes a minute or so, with the exception of the two thick CA layers, which I waited a minute then hit it with some accelerator.

 

[rovercat]

Very nice looking pen. The Amboyna Burl is nice stuff. Might I ask what is TSW? I am kind of new at this.
Thanks

 

[jjenk02]

WOW!!!!

 

[Tanner]

Hey Brian, TSW is a special blend of waxes, polymers and even a uv inhibitor. It was invented by Lou (DCBluesman)on this site. It's sold at Arizona Silhouette for $8.99 per 1/2 ounce container. You might think 1/2 ounce is not much but, you only put just a small dab of it on a paper towel. Wipe it on, wait 45 seconds, wipe it off. It's my last step in every material I use.

John, the price for something like this is probably around $60. I don't sell pens, but the people that do say that a good number to use would be 3 times the cost of materials.

 

[johncrane]

great work Tim![]

 

[NavyDiver]

Beautiful pen! Great job on the finish.

 

[gerryr]

Originally posted by Tanner
<br />
John, the price for something like this is probably around $60. I don't sell pens, but the people that do say that a good number to use would be 3 times the cost of materials.

Even if it's a rolleball, I would say that price is too low, especially considering the wood. Amboyna burl like this is not common and is more valuable than single color Amboyna. You did an excellent job on it and it would deserve more than $60.

 

[mick]

Beautiful pen Tim...gotta love Amboyna. I gotta agree with Gerry tho. 60 too low for that pen, especially given the wood. With the formula I use determining prices it would be at around $95.00 if using Ti Gold hardware. If using upgrade gold $65.00 would be closer to the right price. Also using a wood like Amboyna adds $10.00 to my pens

 

[wudnhed]

Tim, you Nolan and the tree did a great job![]

 

[Nolan]

Tim,
Very nice[] That sure is a nice pen. I sure enjoy that Amboyna I got and I got lots more to cut up!!! Thanks for the plug also.
Nolan

 

[jedgerton]

That looks fantastic! Makes we wonder if there is any more blanks where those came from?

John

 

[jttheclockman]

Tanner

Posted - Feb 18 2007 : 4:46:56 PM US Eastern Time
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Thanks Guys. John, It's a Sedona Gold Titanium from Arizona Silhouette. It's a new kit from them that is similar to a Baron but with a round top. The finish is CA. Two coats thin and two coats thick, wiped on with a Viva paper towel. MM through 12,000 grit. I finished it up with White Diamond on a buffing wheel, then Hut's Ultra High Gloss Plastic Polish and as always finished it up with TSW. Sounds like a lot, but each step only takes a minute or so, with the exception of the two thick CA layers, which I waited a minute then hit it with some accelerator.


Thanks for the reply. I read your finish detail and all I could think of is what a mess I would have using the CA glue. I am thinking it would glue the bushings and all. How do you avoid this and how do you get it to be a level finish with out lumps. How fast do you run the lathe???

 

[Nolan]

That looks fantastic! Makes we wonder if there is any more blanks where those came from?

John

Yes John I list stuff regularly.
Nolan

 

[Jim15]

Beautiful pen and wood.

 

[Tanner]

Hey John, it's basically Fangars way of finishing with the DNA left out. I don't think he uses DNA anymore either. Believe me I'm no expert here. I just listen to what the experts on this site have said. When I get the pen down to almost even with the bushings with a skew, I sand it a little further with 400 or 600 grit sand paper, then on to Micro mesh up to 12,000 grit. This will take it down right to the bushing. Then I just take a paper towel that I have cut in fourths and fold it in about 1/2 inch width. Then I just put 6 - 8 drops of thin CA in one spot then quickly run it along both pen barrels. Let it sit and cure for a minute or so, then put the second layer of thin on. Some woods will suck more in, then I just keep up with the thin until it looks like it's shiny all around. Then I just move to the thick CA layers. This will leave you above the bushings. Try not to put the thick on too thick, just a nice even thin layer of thick CA. You're going to be sanding some of these layers away. Here is where I take a 1/8" wide parting tool and take the CA off of the bushings right up to the end of the wood barrels. Some people will put car wax or Renaissance Wax on the bushing to keep the CA from sticking. Some people will make their own bushings out of Delrin to match the bushings they are using. Others will take wax paper and put between the bushing and the wood before the CA application, some here even use milk carton caps as a separator during the CA application. Sometimes I will put a little Renaissance Wax on mine. I just part the CA off, then start sanding again, starting at 400 or 600 depending on how rough the CA went on. By the time I'm done sanding I'll be just barely above the bushing. When I started I was way too concerned with getting it perfectly even with the bushing. Believe me, if you're a hair above the bushing, you'll never notice. Just read through the finishing posts and you will see what everyone does. A lot of different ways to skin a cat here, this is just the way I do it.