New Resins from CS

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PenWorks

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Here are some of the new resins in the new CS catalog, I cut these for the Gent Jr. pens. I like the Blue/black/gold the best. Retro 51 pen company has used that same resin for the past 2 years. It seams like the pen turners get the left overs from the pen companies after they have their run. Anthony



20041030232719_DSC00701.jpg
 
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PenWorks

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Hi Fred, it is item 050-0101 red/black/white, You can hardly tell by the photo, but at the top of the cap, there are some white/black dots, almost looks like a little patch of strawberry. Anthony
 

PenWorks

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Fred, if you are at the CS home page, click on what's new, it will show the new resins. I am finshing up the green/gold , it will be a looker. Anthony
 

wayneis

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Boy, I like them all, I have some of their new Ligero's coming and think that they might look nice with these new celluloids. This is almost like christmas[:D]

Anthony I recieved my kits today, thanks again[;)] Getting ready to do one in black died stabilized box elder burl. I think that with the rhdium and black titanium and the black BEB, it should be sweet.[8D]

Wayne
 

PenWorks

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Hi Wayne, glad the snail mail was actually fast. I mailed Thursday. Can't wait to see your Statesman pen. I am putting the finishing touches on two more. a red melle and a mausur birch. Hold off on the resins. I cut to other news ones which I think are nicer than the ones posted. I will put the pics up tomarrow. I am waiting for the Ligero's too. Still no one jumped in yet on the group order for the Statesman Jr.
 

wayneis

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I can't wait to see the next batch, I think that I may just have to have a couple of each. I desided not to wait seeing no one responding so I just made an order for some Jr. Statesman kits. You are really doing a nice job. I just love the looks of all the new kits.

Happy turning.

Wayne
 

WoodChucker

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Penworks, those are beautiful, I like them all. Are there extra steps in making this type of pen or are they made the same way as the wood pens? I'm guessing heat might be a problem, no? Anyway, they look great and thanks for sharing.

R.T.
 

wayneis

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R.T. about the only extra steps I can think of is first if the blank is translucent at all you need to paint your tubes, I use Rust-O-Liem. Next and in my opinion the most important, is to use lots of water when drilling to keep both blank and drill bit cool. I use wto thirty cc syringes and just as soon as I bring up the bit to clear it I squirt water into the hole. The next is do not drill to much at a time, I go 1/8' to 1/4" at a time and check the temp of the bit by feel every once in a while. If you get it hot, you wuill have a melt down. Then extra sharp tools and wet sand with water again, use either MM pads or even the regular MM will do the trick. Lastly, I use a plastic polish to remove the last of the fine scratches at make it glow. Then just before I assemble the pen I have some liquid that removes the static electricity, I believe the Company that makes MM also make this. But I put just a drop or two on the blank let it dry for a second or two and buff dry.

Wayne
 

WoodChucker

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Wayne, thanks for the quick lesson! Do you happen to know the name of the stuff you use for static control? Also, the last step you stated "let it dry for a second or two and buff dry" do I need a buffing wheel setup or is rubbing it with a rag what you mean? Thanks again, I almost feel like I could do it now. [:D]

R.T.
 

wayneis

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Next time I go down to my shop I'll check the name but it is not something that is imparative, I don't know if anyone else uses it but me. I only started because it came with a MM kit I bought a while ago and liked the results. If you do deside you want to use something, I think that you could use several different things including carefully wiping the blanks after you are finished with a clothes softner sheet. Another thing is if you have Home Depot near, in their section where they sell the plexi glass for windows they sell a static remover for glass, I'm sure that would work also.

Wayne
 

PenWorks

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RT, the best tip I can give you is, make sure your tools are SHARP. The brill bits brom Brea, seam to work best for drilling resins. I have a lot less breakage with thier bit. I can't recall the name of them, but they only sell one kind. After cutting just two resin pens, I have to sharpen my tools. I have best results with a large scraper, start taking material off very little at a time until you get it round, then you can be alittle more aggressive. Good Luck, Anthony
 

Rudy Vey

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Originally posted by penworks
<br />RT, the best tip I can give you is, make sure your tools are SHARP. The brill bits brom Brea, seam to work best for drilling resins. I have a lot less breakage with thier bit. I can't recall the name of them, but they only sell one kind. After cutting just two resin pens, I have to sharpen my tools. I have best results with a large scraper, start taking material off very little at a time until you get it round, then you can be alittle more aggressive. Good Luck, Anthony
They are called "Parabolic Flute" drill bits and they clear the chips very fast out.
Rudy
 
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