My first pens

[ethikz]

Well I watched a quick YouTube video and talking to a friend about some tips, I decided to just try my hand at turning.

I am really enjoying it. I've learned a few things along the way. The actual first pen I tried turning was out of some scraps I found and tried to rush it and near the edges I suppose I took too much off and it just broke off.

I didn't read instructions on the 2nd attempt and ended up putting the pieces in wrong lol. I did buy a punch kit and salvaged some of it but needless to say I had to buy another kit

I bought a whole bunch of extra tubes and kits this time. One thing I didn't learn is about epoxy. My first pen, the top part spins since it isn't glued to the barrel :/

The 2nd one I epoxied and now just waiting to dry and also learned about the friction polish and doing it on the lathe instead of off. Also was given a tip about just sanding the edges and get it more flush to the spacers and it worked. Wasn't as quick as I thought it would be but definitely worth it.

1st is Tulipwood
2nd is Padauk

 

[mecompco]

Welcome. Not bad for the first couple of pens--better than I did! I think slims are pretty much the toughest pen to make perfectly. Great pens to learn on. Your fit and finish will improve with practice. I'm glad you didn't to the "pregnant" slim thing that so many newbies seem to end up with.

Regards,
Michael

 

[ethikz]

Welcome. Not bad for the first couple of pens--better than I did! I think slims are pretty much the toughest pen to make perfectly. Great pens to learn on. Your fit and finish will improve with practice. I'm glad you didn't to the "pregnant" slim thing that so many newbies seem to end up with.

Regards,
Michael

Thanks!

Why do you say they are toughest to perfect?

Well the first one definitely is bigger in the middle than on ends lol.

 

[mecompco]

Welcome. Not bad for the first couple of pens--better than I did! I think slims are pretty much the toughest pen to make perfectly. Great pens to learn on. Your fit and finish will improve with practice. I'm glad you didn't to the "pregnant" slim thing that so many newbies seem to end up with.

Regards,
Michael

Thanks!

Why do you say they are toughest to perfect?

Well the first one definitely is bigger in the middle than on ends lol.

Unlike lots of other pens (Sierras, for instance) the dimensions have to be "right on" or you will have proud metal or proud blank at the nib and end cap. There is a little wiggle room at the band. I don't do many slims these days, but when I do, I always put the digital calps on them to get those dimensions right.

Also, you've got two barrels to make and keep track of the grain so they mate up properly. A single barrel pen like a Sierra eliminates this issue. Not to mention drilling two holes and getting them perfectly square.

So, if you can make a perfect Slim, you can make most anything.

Oh, and I know there are sometimes reasons to put some "belly" into a pen, I just don't think it works on slims. If one wants a larger pen, one should make something else, IMHO.

Regards,
Michael

 

[ethikz]

Welcome. Not bad for the first couple of pens--better than I did! I think slims are pretty much the toughest pen to make perfectly. Great pens to learn on. Your fit and finish will improve with practice. I'm glad you didn't to the "pregnant" slim thing that so many newbies seem to end up with.

Regards,
Michael

Thanks!

Why do you say they are toughest to perfect?

Well the first one definitely is bigger in the middle than on ends lol.

Unlike lots of other pens (Sierras, for instance) the dimensions have to be "right on" or you will have proud metal or proud blank at the nib and end cap. There is a little wiggle room at the band. I don't do many slims these days, but when I do, I always put the digital calps on them to get those dimensions right.

Also, you've got two barrels to make and keep track of the grain so they mate up properly. A single barrel pen like a Sierra eliminates this issue. Not to mention drilling two holes and getting them perfectly square.

So, if you can make a perfect Slim, you can make most anything.

Oh, and I know there are sometimes reasons to put some "belly" into a pen, I just don't think it works on slims. If one wants a larger pen, one should make something else, IMHO.

Regards,
Michael

Ah yeah I'm sure if mine are inspected and measured they won't match lol

I've just kind of winged them which I know is bad but just want to get a feel for it.

I didn't try to put a belly on mine, just happened to be that way lol. I tried making it the same width as the band

 

[mecompco]

Welcome. Not bad for the first couple of pens--better than I did! I think slims are pretty much the toughest pen to make perfectly. Great pens to learn on. Your fit and finish will improve with practice. I'm glad you didn't to the "pregnant" slim thing that so many newbies seem to end up with.

Regards,
Michael

Thanks!

Why do you say they are toughest to perfect?

Well the first one definitely is bigger in the middle than on ends lol.

Unlike lots of other pens (Sierras, for instance) the dimensions have to be "right on" or you will have proud metal or proud blank at the nib and end cap. There is a little wiggle room at the band. I don't do many slims these days, but when I do, I always put the digital calps on them to get those dimensions right.

Also, you've got two barrels to make and keep track of the grain so they mate up properly. A single barrel pen like a Sierra eliminates this issue. Not to mention drilling two holes and getting them perfectly square.

So, if you can make a perfect Slim, you can make most anything.

Oh, and I know there are sometimes reasons to put some "belly" into a pen, I just don't think it works on slims. If one wants a larger pen, one should make something else, IMHO.

Regards,
Michael[/QUOTE]

Ah yeah I'm sure if mine are inspected and measured they won't match lol

I've just kind of winged them which I know is bad but just want to get a feel for it.

I didn't try to put a belly on mine, just happened to be that way lol. I tried making it the same width as the band[/QUOTE]

Well, I think they look pretty good for winging it! I did Slims at first as well--proud metal, non-square blanks, you name it. As an excuse, I didn't have anywhere near the equipment I did now, but truthfully, I did just like you--watch a bunch of videos and go for it.

Like any new skill, it takes time to learn. I know I am still coming up with new and inventive ways to screw up a pen.

The best thing to do is just keep making pens and correcting mistakes.

Looking forward to seeing more of your work.

 

[OZturner]

Congratulations Josh, a Great start.

I agree with Michael's, comments, about the Slimlines, their shape and difficulties.

Firstly, I consider the Slimline to be a very difficult Pen.
They have the 7mm hole, and when turned to the Bushes you very little Meat left.
Hence if your Blank is not glued properly to the Tube, you will have problems with the Blank breaking, let alone rotating.

Secondly, new turners have a lot of trepidation, and hesitate to turn the pen to the required dimension of the bushes, and the result is a blank, that is proud of the Nose Cone, Center Band, or Clip Cap, which detracts from the appearance.

From your comments, it would appear like a lot of new Pen Turners, your enthusiasm has overtaken your knowledge bank. As you said you had not read the Instructions properly.

Fortunately, Slimline's are relatively inexpensive, so any losses are relatively low, except for your time and the damage to your confidence.

As you have found, though the Pen looks Simple and Uncomplicated, it is not an easy pen to make.
But the answer to the problems you encountered are all covered in the Instructions.

Please keep your First pen, and look at it in a couple of months time and use it as a gauge as to how much you have progressed.

Keep up your Enthusiasm, you have started on a fantastic and enjoyable journey.

Regards,
Brian.

 

[ethikz]

Thanks Brian. Yea that is why I started with slimline because they are cheaper lol.

I did just happen to turn another one just to try and get better at technique.

Used purple heart this time and added some Danish Oil to it

I definitely am a little impatient which will cost me some phenomenal work. I do need to slow down and read a bit more. I'm a hands on learner so now that I have a grasp hopefully the instructions and help in this forum will be easier to understand and make a little more sense .

Thank you all

 

[mecompco]

Thanks Brian. Yea that is why I started with slimline because they are cheaper lol.

I did just happen to turn another one just to try and get better at technique.

Used purple heart this time and added some Danish Oil to it

I definitely am a little impatient which will cost me some phenomenal work. I do need to slow down and read a bit more. I'm a hands on learner so now that I have a grasp hopefully the instructions and help in this forum will be easier to understand and make a little more sense .

Thank you all

The fitment looks better on this one. Are those radial marks in the wood, or in the finish? It is important to sand laterally as well as radially on the lathe with each grit. Stop the lathe between grits and sand out all the marks before moving up to the next grit. Lateral marks will sand out with higher grits, but radial scratches usually won't.

 

[ethikz]

The fitment looks better on this one. Are those radial marks in the wood, or in the finish? It is important to sand laterally as well as radially on the lathe with each grit. Stop the lathe between grits and sand out all the marks before moving up to the next grit. Lateral marks will sand out with higher grits, but radial scratches usually won't.

Yea I think they are. I must have not done it right. I started with 100 grit then jumped straight 600.

I just sanded vertically and did so with and edge of the folded paper which could be the cause of the marks

 

[JimB]

You are off to a good start. Those are nice first pens.

Don't start with 100 grit. That is to coarse. I usually go 220, 320, 400. Sometimes I go higher. It just depends on what I'm doing. The lowest I ever go is 150. You will never remove the scratches from 100 grit by jumping to 600. You want to increment by about 50% when going to the next grit.

 

[ethikz]

Thanks!

I'll remember that. Thank you for the information!

 

[elkhorn]

Welcome, Josh! You're off to a good start. On the sanding with wood, if you start with 100, your next grit should be 150, then 240, 320, 400, 600 (this is how I was taught when I was making furniture and wood bowls and platters. Not saying its the best or only way, but it's one way.). Increasing the grit gradually helps eliminate the sanding marks from the previous grit. As Mike pointed out, make sure you stop the lathe and sand laterally as well.

Keep up the good work and the enthusiasm!

 

[mecompco]

As you get better at turning, you'll use less and less sandpaper. I used to use a LOT of 150 grit. Now, if I have to sand at all, it's a quick hit with 400 before finishing wood or wet-sanding acrylic. So yes, if you have to sand, start with the highest grit you can, sand at slow speed with the lathe spinning, then shut it off and sand laterally. When, and only when ALL radial scratches are gone, you move up to the next higher grit and repeat. Assuming your still turning wood, and doing a CA or friction polish, 400 should be high enough (but go higher if you want). Once you get into acrylic/PR/Lucite etc., you'll be going up to 12,000 grit. If you want a nice pen, you have to be patient (and I know it's hard to be).

 

[ethikz]

Thanks everyone! I'll need to invest into higher grit sandpaper then

 

[lhowell]

Nice start! I have to agree with several on here that slimlines look easy but they are probably one of the most difficult to turn. I don't really have much to add as to why they are except the material is super thin once you finish turning. That's why a lot of people turn the blanks into ellipses but that is also difficult as you don't want them looking too fat and you also have to get two very similar ellipses on each blank so the pen looks proportional.
Yes, definitely invest in lots of sandpaper and MicroMesh for finishing.
Congrats again! You have now entered started a path down a very slippery slope that is both fun and rewarding! Happy Turning!