My first commissioned fountain pen!

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Chrisjan

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Joined
Mar 23, 2012
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111
Location
Pretoria, South Africa
Good day folks - it's been a long time since I posted anything... Here's pics of an order for a client. He wanted a pink ladies' and a green gents' pen... Here's my pickings: Chrome Comfort with lavender acrylic reverse painted neon pink & Gold Jr Gentleman Fountain with Crushed green acrylic... I was nervous about the fountain pen - I have messed up previous nib-ends in the assembly process, but this one turned out good!
 

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TonyL

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Mar 9, 2014
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Georgia
Beautiful! Stunning. Is there a technique that you practice that prevents or eliminates doesn't micro scratches left behind by the circular finishing tool. No matter how lightly I make contact, I get very fine scratches. Tried dry sanding, wet sanding, BG products etc. Thank you!
 

Joe S.

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Jan 11, 2012
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Location
South Lyon, MI
Back when I made my first fountain, I thought I had to assemble it with the section screwed in. I knew that clear plastic tube had to be used for something!

Great pens!
 

OZturner

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Joined
Aug 5, 2013
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6,663
Location
Sydney. NSW. Australia
Beautiful! Stunning. Is there a technique that you practice that prevents or eliminates doesn't micro scratches left behind by the circular finishing tool. No matter how lightly I make contact, I get very fine scratches. Tried dry sanding, wet sanding, BG products etc. Thank you!

Tony, If you are experiencing circular scratches, it sounds that your sanding practice may need some changes.
Firstly with any material, but particular cast blanks, you will seldom get an off the tool finish that doesn't need sanding.
I suggest that you look at the off tool finish quality, and select your starting grit based on that finish quality, probably say 320 grit, use clean paper and move the paper over the total length of the blank while it is turning.
Don't hold it in one place, when finishing with the lathe turned off lightly move the paper lengthways over the entire blank.
Then wipe with a piece of paper towel soaked with DNA.
Repeat this through every grit till you get a satisfactory finish. probably 1200 or 2400.
I would then use Micro Mesh and repeat the process through all grades.
You can then use a Plastic polish if needed.

Most important use clean paper, and always keep it moving don't hold it stationary in one position.
Brian.
 
Joined
Feb 24, 2012
Messages
4,368
Location
Claremont NH
My acrylic finishing got better once I learned to always wet sand on all grits. Some of the great guys here on the forum told me about that early on. Works like a charm.
 

TonyL

Member
Joined
Mar 9, 2014
Messages
8,915
Location
Georgia
Thank you Brian; I saved your advice.

Beautiful! Stunning. Is there a technique that you practice that prevents or eliminates doesn't micro scratches left behind by the circular finishing tool. No matter how lightly I make contact, I get very fine scratches. Tried dry sanding, wet sanding, BG products etc. Thank you!

Tony, If you are experiencing circular scratches, it sounds that your sanding practice may need some changes.
Firstly with any material, but particular cast blanks, you will seldom get an off the tool finish that doesn't need sanding.
I suggest that you look at the off tool finish quality, and select your starting grit based on that finish quality, probably say 320 grit, use clean paper and move the paper over the total length of the blank while it is turning.
Don't hold it in one place, when finishing with the lathe turned off lightly move the paper lengthways over the entire blank.
Then wipe with a piece of paper towel soaked with DNA.
Repeat this through every grit till you get a satisfactory finish. probably 1200 or 2400.
I would then use Micro Mesh and repeat the process through all grades.
You can then use a Plastic polish if needed.

Most important use clean paper, and always keep it moving don't hold it stationary in one position.
Brian.

I did do that and wet sanded with the micro mesh. I also started with 2200 and worked-up to 600 (twice), then wet sanded twice, with reverse lathe speed around 1200 to 1600. I did clean the finished blanks with a dry paper tower in between with no rotation. I have been getting better results, but not "perfect.

I was wondering if there is such a thing a achieving a scratch-free finish with the circular-blade, finishing tool? I barely touch it the blank with it, but make several dozen passes.

I can use DNA on acrylic?

Thank you both!
 
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TonyL

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Joined
Mar 9, 2014
Messages
8,915
Location
Georgia
I agree!

Best way to remove the final scratches is with a buffing wheel.

I own the Barry Gross kit. I did it twice. I even used his scratch remover twice. That's why I am asking...I am thinking that I am using the rounded finishing tool with too many scratches. Remember, I have been turning pens for only two weeks, and since Monday on my own lathe. This could be a skills/experience issue. :)

Thank you!
 

Chrisjan

Member
Joined
Mar 23, 2012
Messages
111
Location
Pretoria, South Africa
Thanks for all the comments guys...

On the sanding bit - I use Micromesh but i stop the lathe on every second grit to do some longitudinal polishing... especially on the last two and then apply some HUTs Gloss with tissue paper - Hop it helps
 
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