Moose Antler & Cartridge

[stoneman]

Recently I asked members to help me decipher a good way to do my own cartridges for pens, including the bullet nib. Received several great tips and especially want to thank Sylvanite & rherrell for their assistance and advice. Rick's tutorial was also very helpful. Anyway, I managed to finish a few. The first two were scarffed up quickly by my best friend & my younger son. I managed to get a photo of the third one.
Moose Antler/30-06/Gold Titanium Hardware.

Thanks to all who made it possible

 

[Sylvanite]

Looks sharp; good job; and you're welcome. I'm happy to help.

Regards,
Eric

 

[PaulDoug]

Very, very nice job. First moose I have seen.

I am in the process of making my first. Haven't finished yet. Did you solder the tube in or glue? That is my next step and I haven't decided which to do. I have also considered using JB Weld to hold the tube. If a person uses solder can you use a butane torch? Most tutorials I've read use a soldering iron, I don't have one.

 

[Ligget]

Great work on the pen!

 

[dkarcher]

Good looking Pen. Nice work!

 

[louisbry]

Great looking pen. I would hang on to this pen before it slips away.

 

[bitshird]

great way to start, I think the pens look much better with bullets for the nibs

 

[stoneman]

Very, very nice job. First moose I have seen.

I am in the process of making my first. Haven't finished yet. Did you solder the tube in or glue? That is my next step and I haven't decided which to do. I have also considered using JB Weld to hold the tube. If a person uses solder can you use a butane torch? Most tutorials I've read use a soldering iron, I don't have one.

Paul -

The first one I epoxied in, but am unsure about the strength. The actual contact area is not all that large compared to a typical tube installation. I have a friend using the epoxied one - we'll see. The next ones I soldered (seems the choice of those who've done a lot more than I have). I picked up a Weller 40W soldering iron at the local hardware store. The soldering tip was too big to fit down the 7mm pen tube. But...the tip was removable and I replaced it with a piece of 1/4" steel rod of the same length after sanding the rod down slightly so it just fits in the 7mm brass tube. By leaving the tube a bit longer than the casing to start out with, you can solder the joint without getting solder on the steel rod (probably that would NOT work so well). So far it has worked quite well for me. I don't know what effect a torch might have on the brass case or the brass tube.

Steve

 

[rherrell]

Great job, Steve! Like you I've started leaving the brass tube a little proud for soldering. I countrsink the hole just a little so the solder has somewhere to go. This method keeps the solder from getting inside the tube so I no longer have to drill it out. I've also taken to melting the lead out of the bullet, it's ALOT faster than drilling and the copper shines up just fine. A propane torch like the one's used for soldering copper water pipes works great, just make sure to do it in a well ventilated area. I do it outside and let the lead fall into a metal can.
I'm really glad I could help out a little, keep up the good work!

 

[hehndc]

Just my two cents worth: I have used urathane glue. Swab the inside of the cartridge with the glue and carfully slide the tube in. Sometimes some of the glue foams up around the end of the cartridge around the tube but, it is easily removed with a square file and razor blade.

Have not had one fail.

Steve

 

[PaulDoug]

Great job, Steve! I've also taken to melting the lead out of the bullet, it's ALOT faster than drilling and the copper shines up just fine.

rherrell, Could you explain the a little more. How do you do this and how big of a hole does it leave? Is this what you say you do outside and let the lead fall into a bucket?

 

[rherrell]

Paul, I use hollow point bullets and the first thing I do is drill the tip with a 5/64" drill until it just hits lead. Then I turn it around and do the same thing with a 9/64" bit, just removing the copper and stopping when I hit lead. Then I hold it with needle nose pliers, big hole facing down and heat it until the lead falls out into the can, about 5 seconds. Then I put the drill bits in a small hand held pin vise and make sure the holes are still clean, that's it!

 

[stoneman]

Great job, Steve! Like you I've started leaving the brass tube a little proud for soldering. I countrsink the hole just a little so the solder has somewhere to go. This method keeps the solder from getting inside the tube so I no longer have to drill it out. I've also taken to melting the lead out of the bullet, it's ALOT faster than drilling and the copper shines up just fine. A propane torch like the one's used for soldering copper water pipes works great, just make sure to do it in a well ventilated area. I do it outside and let the lead fall into a metal can.
I'm really glad I could help out a little, keep up the good work!

Rick,
When you melt the lead out, do you just let it run out the tip of the bullet? Does the "hollow" shell still seat in the cartridge mouth without collapsing on the now hollow shoulder? Do you still drill two size holes or just let the refill stabilize itself just on the very tip of the bullet?

Sorry - I just realized you had answered part of the question in a later post - does the bullet still seat in reloading dies without problems?

 

[toolcrazy]

Very nice. Nice work.

 

[rherrell]

Steve, whether you drill or melt the lead out, it's out. I have one of those Lee hand held reloading dies and the bullet seats just fine.