Metal pen in the making...*UPDATED*

Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad
See more from BradG

BradG

Member
Joined
Jul 10, 2011
Messages
1,733
Location
Blackpool -UK
I thought i would post a basic walkthrough of an Americana twist pen made out of aluminium which i plan on finishing by Saturday. As i progress, i will add more pictures to this thread.

For tonight, i have made the bottom half of the pen :) , Il turn the top half tomorrow night and glue the brass tubes, and leave them overnight to give the glue a chance to settle. On saturday when i get home from work, i will finish the pen off

284586_122387667852908_117699231655085_168767_1161561_n.jpg

And so it begins... With a section of 25mm aluminium bar as that's what i had laying around. I add a good inch extra to the length than what i need, which gives me a good base to grip in the chuck. it also gives me a handy offcut to work with on other projects

Once i have turned it down to 10mm, i have run a knurling tool up and down the length advancing 0.1mm as i go, to a total depth of 0.5mm

Be sure to use a dead centre when knurling. you are applying alot of force to the side of the piece. I use a live centre (which revolves with the work) which you really shouldnt use for knurling... but aluminium is a soft metal and can be done. i certainly wouldnt be trying it with mild steel etc.

When using a dead centre, be sure to add a little lube to the center drilled hole... youl get alot of friction otherwise and melt the tip off.


267516_122387901186218_117699231655085_168768_4029447_n.jpg

I then drill the piece slowly, using plenty of cutting fluid with a 4mm bit all the way to the length of the brass tube, with a few mm extra to give me room to cut it with a clean hole later on. Take this step slow. the swarf from the metal will choke up, it will get extremely hot and your likely to jam the drill bit into the piece of work. To help avoid this, take little cuts and back out the drill bit to clear the swarf frequently. Generally, 5mm max at a time. naturally this applies more the deeper you go into the piece of metal.
WD40 is a popular choice as a cutting lube when working with Ali.. I find it a little too thin for this process and to be honest usually give it a good shot of 3 in 1 oil down the hole and coat the drill bit.

If the drill bit does get stuck, you may have an issue here as its unlikely you will be able to pull it out just using force alone. I remove the piece from the chuck with the drill bit still lodged obviously, and mount the drillbit in a collet in my mill. I position the vice so that its barely touching the static side, and turn the mill on to around 2200RPM. i then quickly close the vice jamming the piece of work thus stopping it spinning. and with more torque being available on my mill it frees the drill bit instantly and i am able to back out the bit.
Another tip would be to keep touching the part to see how hot is it. if it provokes the "argh" reaction.. let it cool down before continuing.

Once you have done this, swap to the actual diameter drill bit you need for the insertion of your brass tube. This americana requires an 8mm hole. I now find it alot easier to drill all the way through with an 8mm, as its only skimming off as it goes, and will give you very long sharp swarf. be careful.. its like razor wire and the last thing you want is it snagging on a moving part. Dont try and drill the piece out with just an 8mm bit... treat the 4mm as your pilot hole so to speak to take the strain out of your machine.


262206_122388224519519_117699231655085_168769_6171981_n.jpg

I decided to take an ST turning tool, and cut some 0.5mm deep grooves (The depth of the knurling) spaced 10mm apart, to add some decoration to the pen.


283401_122388577852817_117699231655085_168770_4529630_n.jpg

A parting off tool is used to seperate the part from the base in the chuck, and the edges are deburred.


282646_122388911186117_117699231655085_168771_1824693_n.jpg

And one finished bottom half of the pen, ready to have the brass tubes inserted. Pretty rough looking at the moment, but on the final phase it will be lightly sanded down.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Friday's work

271006_122850544473287_117699231655085_170422_32440_n.jpg

And so begins the top piece.. again, a generous length is cut to give me a nice piece to grasp in the chuck


282462_122850861139922_117699231655085_170424_4657453_n.jpg

I have turned it down to 12.5mm, and the tip to 10mm diameter to a length of 5mm to accomodate the gold ring.


281553_122851167806558_117699231655085_170426_1307366_n.jpg

A quick test with the ring to make sure its a good fit. later it will be secured with a dab of CA


270374_122851521139856_117699231655085_170427_5044240_n.jpg

Time to Knurl...........


281597_122851794473162_117699231655085_170430_5676723_n.jpg

The first pass taking 0.1mm, and then the carriage feed reversed to take another 0.1mm, and back and forth to a total of 0.5mm of knurling.


267792_122852154473126_117699231655085_170437_4249879_n.jpg

Once knurled i have used an ST turning tool to cut a groove 0.5mm deep, spaced at 10mm intervals.



269849_122852417806433_117699231655085_170439_3950709_n.jpg

I decided that the last groove i cut would be nicer if it was wider, so i switched to a parting off tool, and cut 0.5mm deep with that, and then again 10mm along towards the top of the pen.



281482_122852657806409_117699231655085_170441_1661726_n.jpg

With the piece turned, The parting off tool is used to seperate the piece from the stock in the chuck.



281990_122852971139711_117699231655085_170442_161858_n.jpg

And the final product.. well kinda :)



281215_122853577806317_117699231655085_170445_5150086_n.jpg

And all of the parts loosely assembled.
Note that no brass tubes have been glued in place at this point, so i can easily slot the pieces together to get a preview of how the pen will look.
I will glue the tubes in tonight, and tomorrow they will be spun on a mandrel and sanded a little to finish them off, before being pressed together. more on that however, then.
 
Last edited:
Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad

Rounder

Member
Joined
Jan 16, 2011
Messages
753
Location
Marlin, TX
Just out of curiosity, why put a brass tube in? Just drill to the I.D. of the brass tube and use the aluminum as the tube.
 

BradG

Member
Joined
Jul 10, 2011
Messages
1,733
Location
Blackpool -UK
Hi Randy
I make the ID 7.35mm, thats a little precise for a good fit with standard drill bits and you would be better off with reamers to get close to that which i dont have.

Using the brass tubes gives you a good tolerance margin
 

randyrls

Member
Joined
Feb 2, 2006
Messages
4,821
Location
Harrisburg, PA 17112
Once i have turned it down to 10mm, i have run a knurling tool up and down the length advancing 0.1mm as i go, to a total depth of 0.5mm

Be sure to use a dead centre when knurling. you are applying alot of force to the side of the piece. I use a live centre (which revolves with the work) which you really shouldnt use for knurling... but aluminium is a soft metal and can be done. i certainly wouldnt be trying it with mild steel etc.


Brad; I have a "scissors knurler" that just squeezes the work piece between two knurls. It puts little load on the tail stock center, so you can just run the knurl from end to end.
http://www.littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=1911&category=
 
Last edited:

djpnevans

Member
Joined
Feb 5, 2009
Messages
112
Location
Perth Aust
So far so good Brad. I did a long wood click pen a few weeks age, I was hopeing the guy would turn around and say he didn't want it so I could keep it. I have a brass one to do up yet.
David
 

Attachments

  • DSC02190.JPG
    DSC02190.JPG
    47.8 KB · Views: 207

BradG

Member
Joined
Jul 10, 2011
Messages
1,733
Location
Blackpool -UK
Once i have turned it down to 10mm, i have run a knurling tool up and down the length advancing 0.1mm as i go, to a total depth of 0.5mm

Be sure to use a dead centre when knurling. you are applying alot of force to the side of the piece. I use a live centre (which revolves with the work) which you really shouldnt use for knurling... but aluminium is a soft metal and can be done. i certainly wouldnt be trying it with mild steel etc.


Brad; I have a "scissors knurler" that just squeezes the work piece between two knurls. It puts little load on the tail stock center, so you can just run the knurl from end to end.
http://www.littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=1911&category=

Ah thanks for that, i've not come across those before. I see it comes with a selection of wheels to. Think il have to give one a go :)
 

BradG

Member
Joined
Jul 10, 2011
Messages
1,733
Location
Blackpool -UK
Very nice David
I have been considering brass myself, although before i try that i want to experiment with plating & anodising as you know. Be sure to send me a picture or two of the brass one when you get around to turning it
 

workinforwood

Member
Joined
Mar 1, 2007
Messages
8,173
Location
Eaton Rapids, Michigan, USA.
Now you edited your post can I rescind my comments? I thought the little pic under was the final pen, the long single barrel clicker pen. Now I'm not crazy about this pen. The gold and black kit with the knurled aluminum is not a good match and worse than that is the centerband way proud of the barrel. You should have tapered the upper barrel if using kit parts. Just one mans opinion, but this pen is not for me.
 

PenPal

Member
Joined
Nov 29, 2006
Messages
2,708
Location
Canberra, A.C.T., Australia.
Brad,

I have followed with great interest your pen making using Alumium and I fully appreciate how you have succeeded so far your design is unusual however the way you went. I can tell you by happenstance how I came up with my brass knurled pen made from three competition Darts and with your approval enclose a pic as I dont know how to do this on a pm. I also fitted two brass tubes for accuracy of fit since yes I do not have a set of reamers. I made this for a Dart player to mark his score cards. To follow up9 please show a brass knurled one) and yes the coincidence re spacing etc is uncanny.

Kind regards Peter.
 

Attachments

  • DSCF0003.JPG
    DSCF0003.JPG
    87.8 KB · Views: 122
  • 3 Dart bodies 10-9-2008 6-17-26 PM 292x420.JPG
    3 Dart bodies 10-9-2008 6-17-26 PM 292x420.JPG
    57.5 KB · Views: 169
Last edited:

BradG

Member
Joined
Jul 10, 2011
Messages
1,733
Location
Blackpool -UK
Jeff,
Many thanks for taking the time to post, constructive critisism is always welcome :) I'm inclined to agree with you, with regards to the black & gold + the aluminium, prehaps this would look alot nicer if i were to anodise the aluminium black to tie the colours in? Everyone's thoughts on this would be most welcome.

With regards to the prominant centre band, I prefer that on the americana pen, due to the top piece being significantly larger than the bottom, with the centre band over lapping the bottom. I guess thats down to personal preference. one of the good things with pens, it would take quite a few million pens to cater for all


Peter
Now thats an impressive set of darts and a very nice pen :) , again, it leads me with more temptation to anodise mine, so thanks for sharing the images they are most welcome.
I must admit i am intrigued as to:
design is unusual however the way you went.
I am still on a very sharp learning curve so if there's anything you would like to suggest on how i could do things differently i would certainly appreciate the comments
 

azamiryou

Member
Joined
Aug 14, 2010
Messages
1,015
Location
Silver Spring, MD USA
Thanks for sharing your process. Unfortunately, I have to agree with workinforwood, the CB end of the upper barrel looks overturned. Even though it is what you designed and intended, it gives the impression of an error. If (and this is a big if) you decide you don't like it, either, you could always machine a new CB to fit the barrel.

I look forward to seeing the anodizing effects you come up with.
 

BradG

Member
Joined
Jul 10, 2011
Messages
1,733
Location
Blackpool -UK
Hi Ben
It was just an offcut which had been sitting there for quite a while

Thanks for the feedback Matthew. I will certainly take a look at it, and if i feel the same way on another look i will just return a new top :)

The dimensions is the same as this one

261763_1979695726085_1053908681_32096044_5902634_n.jpg


Do you feel that looks over turned also?
 

BradG

Member
Joined
Jul 10, 2011
Messages
1,733
Location
Blackpool -UK
ok....... now you have drawn my eyes to it... its over turned. And now the previous one i made in the post before is bugging me. ah well, i'l make that piece again. Thanks for the constructive feedback!
 

azamiryou

Member
Joined
Aug 14, 2010
Messages
1,015
Location
Silver Spring, MD USA
Do you feel that looks over turned also?

I hadn't noticed it at first due to the grey background (low contrast right there at the top of the CB), but yes, on second look, it has the same "issue".

Since you're planning to turn a new upper barrel, please share a side-by-side comparison with us - who knows, some of us might find we prefer the "overturned" design! :)
 

BradG

Member
Joined
Jul 10, 2011
Messages
1,733
Location
Blackpool -UK
Thanks for sharing your process. Unfortunately, I have to agree with workinforwood, the CB end of the upper barrel looks overturned. Even though it is what you designed and intended, it gives the impression of an error. If (and this is a big if) you decide you don't like it, either, you could always machine a new CB to fit the barrel.

I look forward to seeing the anodizing effects you come up with.

Matthew you can see the progress of the pen and the anodising here.
http://www.penturners.org/forum/showthread.php?t=83515

once ive anodised the top piece i am re-turning this evening and assembled the pen, il post the finished product on this thread
 

azamiryou

Member
Joined
Aug 14, 2010
Messages
1,015
Location
Silver Spring, MD USA
Since you're planning to turn a new upper barrel, please share a side-by-side comparison with us - who knows, some of us might find we prefer the "overturned" design! :)

Well, well, well, guess what? I was just taking a look at my wife's lovely Sailor Yu-Bi Maki-e pen. Its design is vaguely similar: longer, thinner lower barrel and shorter, thicker upper barrel... and the CB stands proud of both. So it has exactly the same "overturned" look I was complaining about in your pen's original design.

I think the Sailor would look better with the CB flush to the upper barrel, but I wanted to share that at least one recognized powerhouse in top-flight pen design has a model with a raised center band.

This page has some photos of pens in the Yu-Bi Maki-e line:
http://www.andys-pens.co.uk/yubi.shtml
 

BradG

Member
Joined
Jul 10, 2011
Messages
1,733
Location
Blackpool -UK
Since you're planning to turn a new upper barrel, please share a side-by-side comparison with us - who knows, some of us might find we prefer the "overturned" design! :)

Well, well, well, guess what? I was just taking a look at my wife's lovely Sailor Yu-Bi Maki-e pen. Its design is vaguely similar: longer, thinner lower barrel and shorter, thicker upper barrel... and the CB stands proud of both. So it has exactly the same "overturned" look I was complaining about in your pen's original design.

I think the Sailor would look better with the CB flush to the upper barrel, but I wanted to share that at least one recognized powerhouse in top-flight pen design has a model with a raised center band.

This page has some photos of pens in the Yu-Bi Maki-e line:
http://www.andys-pens.co.uk/yubi.shtml

Well found Matthew! prehaps they overlooked the detail too! :biggrin:

Either way, I don't feel as bad about one of my pens which has that effect now. Although i must agree with you - all other pens i turn in the future of this style, the CB will certainly be flush to the upper barrel. Just alot more pleasing to the eye
 
Top Bottom