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Old 01-13-2019, 09:00 AM   #1 (permalink)
 
Join Date: Jan 2019
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Default Lesson Learned

This is my first attempt at a segmented pen using metal (aluminum from a beer can).

I was making this as a gift, and thought it would be neat to have a segment near the tip of curly maple. I cut it so that the end-grain would show, not realizing that I would get tearout near the thin transition sections.
I tried to repair using wood dust mixed with glue, but was unhappy with the result. The wood also had some coloration that made it look "dirty".

I ended up cutting that section off and adding a segment of red burl.

Overall, I think the end result turned out nice and I'm sure they'll be happy to receive as a free pen.
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Old 01-13-2019, 10:57 AM   #2 (permalink)
 
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Yup. You've got a knife edge with wood without a solid grain structure. Next time you do that, don't try to turn it down so far, but go with some coarse sandpaper to take it to the final diameter.

-gary
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Old 01-15-2019, 09:22 AM   #3 (permalink)
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vtgaryw View Post
Yup. You've got a knife edge with wood without a solid grain structure. Next time you do that, don't try to turn it down so far, but go with some coarse sandpaper to take it to the final diameter.

-gary
Thanks Gary, I'll try that next time.
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Old 01-15-2019, 10:10 AM   #4 (permalink)
 
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Gary, thanks for the tip; no pun intended.
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Old 01-15-2019, 10:37 AM   #5 (permalink)
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vtgaryw View Post
Yup. You've got a knife edge with wood without a solid grain structure. Next time you do that, don't try to turn it down so far, but go with some coarse sandpaper to take it to the final diameter.

-gary
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Old 01-15-2019, 11:17 AM   #6 (permalink)
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No disrespect to the others on the use of sandpaper, but with metal/wood, I do not use sandpaper at all.

The dirty end that you mentioned . . .
Quote:
The wood also had some coloration that made it look "dirty".
That "dirty look" is sanded metal deposits on the wood. Sandpaper does that.

Look at this photo: http://www.penturners.org/photos/ima..._of_Silver.jpg

Brass, aluminum (and the sliver dots in the photo) SMEAR with sanding. Some people accept a minuscule amount of sanding dust but I could not. Those two pens were turned smooth as a baby's cheek with a well sharpened scraper, NO sandpaper. Sandpaper smears metal sanding dust into the wood.

The key is a freshly sharpened (not "good enough" but the "best"; Good enough is the enemy of Best) and using it for about 20 to 30 seconds, swipe it on a hone and turn 20 - 30 seconds, swipe again, and so on. I use HSS which dulls quicker than carbide inserts but I can sharpen HSS better than the best of carbide inserts. Metal and wood is a case of using the sharpest of the sharp, and HSS give it. Learning to sharpen HSS like that is a good experience that brings on a great feeling. I use carbide inserts often, but when it comes to the final sizing, I turn to HSS, even on metal and wood segments/laminates.
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