Knocked down snake

[DCBluesman]

Snakewood

 

[Gary Max]

Good looking pen Lou---did I just hear something crack????
Wish you luck.

 

[smoky10]

Good looking pen Lou. I've had one for about a month now and still no crack. [8D]

 

[DCBluesman]

Gary/Tom - I'm 14-0 this year against snakewood. Am I worried? Heck no! (well, maybe a little [8D])

 

[Gary Max]

So far I am 0-6---no more snakewood for me.[8D]

 

[chigdon]

I have one that is about 1 year old and I repaired the cracks with black CA and refinished it. Then about 2 months later 2 new cracks!

 

[smoky10]

I'm 1 for 1 and may just keep it that way. Maybe not if I get a really nice snakewood blank. []

 

[DCBluesman]

Thanks, folks. Chris...my oldest snakewood pen is approaching a year and, knock on (snake)wood, no cracks. [8D]

 

[alamocdc]

HAH, I just blow mine up while drilling and glue them back together. Then they never crack![:0][]

 

[OSCAR15]

Lou...beatiful pen. If you have a secret to keeping it from cracking, please share! Oscar

 

[myname1960]

So how many ppl sell these snakewood pens and what do you tell the new owner about them cracking.

If it seems to crack just by sitting there what happens when they get used?

Any negative or upset returns on them?

I would like to try some but not sure if its worth it.

 

[Ryan]

[B)][V]

 

[DCBluesman]

I'm not sure that I have any secrets to keep snakewood from cracking, but here's how I handle the blanks. First, I make sure the blanks adjust to my shop environment for a couple of weeks (six months is better). I drill at full speed but only drill far enough for the bit to get warm, then I let it cool. I sometimes have to drill over a two day period. Next, I coat the inside and ends of the blanks with thin CA and wait overnight. I redrill the blanks, then re-coat the inside and ends with thin CA. I turn very fast but take very light cuts...almost like working with polyester resin. I leave the blanks about 1/32" to 1/16" above the bushings, then coat with thin CA or sanding sealer. Wait overnight and begin sanding. Stop sanding if the blank gets warm to the touch. You may need to sand over two days. The next part is critical. Apply another coat of sanding sealer or thin CA and let the blank rest for 2-3 days. Do a final light sand and buff, then set aside for a week. Deburr all ends and assemble. Let sit for another week or two to see if any cracks develop. That's my method.

As for problems with customers, I warn anyone who is interested in snakewood about the inherent dangers. I also explain that I guarantee my pens...period. If it cracks I repair, replace or refund at my discretion. Fortunately, I've not had one come back yet.

Thanks, again, for the kind words.

 

[BigRob777]

Lou,
I have a perfect record with snakewood, I'm 0-0. Not bad for a beginner. BTW, awesome pen. I'm holding off on my one blank, until I'm better at it, also holding onto my 2 Eagle blanks.
Rob

 

[txcwboy]

So isnt the answer to this just have it stabilized ? I saw some stabilized blanks that looked awesome $12 ea. though!

Dave

 

[DCBluesman]

According to several professional stabilizing companies and Bill Baumbeck (who's been having wood stabilized for longer than I care to think), snakewwod cannot be stabilized due to its density and oiliness. Seeing as I still find something to learn just about every day, it might be worth experimenting, though.

 

[wood-of-1kind]

Lou, thanks for all the tips but how did you possibly score 14-0[?] With all the waiting time in the batters circle I estimate that it would take me 7 years to complete 14 snakewoods[)] Nice score with the snakewood pen.

-Peter-[]

 

[DCBluesman]

Thanks, Peter. Like many others who use lacquer for finishing, I've had to learn 1) patience, and 2) to keep multiple pens at all stages of the process. A couple of folks here on the site can vouch for the fact that a snakewood pen takes me over a month to make once they order it. [8D]