Wes3328
Member
The wood is Redheart (Thanks Dario)
The finish is lacquer
Thanks for looking Comments good or bad welcome
The finish is lacquer
Thanks for looking Comments good or bad welcome
Jr. Gent
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gerryr
Member
Nice combination. Fit looks excellent. Hard to tell about the finish since there isn't a "shine line." Photos look pretty good except the background color is different in the two photos and the lower photos looks to be a hair out of focus. Just picking nits.[
]
]jdavis
Member
very nice finish and fit
chitswood
Member
I love redheart, Superb job!
Dario
Member
Wes,
I really should be thanking you both for buying and making such a pen out of the wood. It really is well done especially the fit.
What finish did you use? Can't tell from the photo...a little "shine line" on pics as mentioned above do help a little []. I do see some reflection by the cap of 2nd pic.
I really should be thanking you both for buying and making such a pen out of the wood. It really is well done especially the fit.
What finish did you use? Can't tell from the photo...a little "shine line" on pics as mentioned above do help a little [
]. I do see some reflection by the cap of 2nd pic.Wes3328
Member
Thanks everyone needless to say my photo skills need improving I don't know why it does not shine
Dario the finish is Lacquer
Here is another picture I took on my desk at work its not real good but it does show a little shine
Again thanks
<br />
Dario the finish is Lacquer
Here is another picture I took on my desk at work its not real good but it does show a little shine
Again thanks
Dario
Member
Wow, looks almost like a different pen! good job!
EdwinSSIV
Member
Very nice job!
Johnathan
Member
Great job! [8D]
jtate
Member
Is there an instruction page on how to do a lacquer finish?
nilsatcraft
Member
jtate- I saw the following instruction set in a thread recently and copied it to a word document for my own use. Russ Fairfield is great with this sort of thing (and nearly everything else) so here it is:
<center><b>LACQUER PEN DIPPING METHOD
By Russ Fairfield</b></center>
I am not the final authority on "dipping" anything, but here are a few things that I know about the topic.
Not every pen is for dipping. The pen must be a design with a smooth barrel shape, and no beads, grooves, or other things that can trap the lacquer as it flows down along the pen.
If you are dipping with both barrels, the same thing about no beads or abrupt changes in dimension will apply. You must have a smooth transition between the barrels for a smooth flow of the lacquer. If the barrels are not the same size, you will have to a transition piece, or use the same mandrel bushing, that will allow a smooth flow of lacquer from one barrel to the other.
You can use a bolt, a piece of all-thread rod and a couple nuts, or a piece of wood dowel to hold the pen barrel for dipping, but ALWAYS have an old bushing or make one from a piece of wood that is the same size as both ends of the pen barrel. You want something that makes a smooth transition onto the wood at either end.
At the bottom, this bushing will give the lacquer something to run onto and drip from other then the pen barrel. This prevents a bead of finish from forming on the end of the barrel.
If you are using a bolt, you don't want the head of the bolt or a washer to be in contact with the end of the barrel at either end. To do so will allow the lacquer to form a fillet in the corner.
If you are dipping with both barrels, always have the tip of the pen on the bottom. There will be a slight difference in the film thickness between the top and bottom of the pen and it is better to have the thicker film in the wear area on the lower barrel.
This is not a grain filler. The wood must be filled, sealed, and smooth BEFORE dipping. All imperfections in the surface will transfer through the finish. Filling the wood grain with CA glue, and sanding to at least 1000 grit are prerequisites for dipping.
Bubbles were taken care of with the above sealing with CA glue.
Regular Deft in the can is the right consistency for dipping, and its drying rate is slow enough that it will flow into a smooth film on the wood. I like to do both barrels at the same time, and this means a full quart can of Deft. If you decant the lacquer into a smaller and taller container, ALWAYS wait for the bubbles to rise in the liquid lacquer before dipping.
One dip is all that is required. Let it drip dry, and then hang it up for a week to allow the solvents to evaporate and the lacquer to get hard enough to handle.
Remove all of the bushings, and clean up the ends of the wood with a sharp barrel trimmer. Using the trimmer by hand is better than power. Lacquer is a poor glue and the sacrificial bushings should snap right off the wood.
Soak everything in lacquer thinner and you can use it again.
If you did it right, the finish will be as smooth as glass, and there is nothing you can do to make it any better.
The attached photo shows dipping with an old 7mm mandrel to hold the barrels. Note the bushing at the bottom, and the smooth transition between the barrels. Since the top is "open" there is no need for anything there.
This isn't a good photo because it is a frame that was grabbed from a video presentation of "dipping".
Isn't there an article somewhere on how to do this? If there is, I am sorry for taking up so much space for nothing.
<center><b>LACQUER PEN DIPPING METHOD
By Russ Fairfield</b></center>
I am not the final authority on "dipping" anything, but here are a few things that I know about the topic.
Not every pen is for dipping. The pen must be a design with a smooth barrel shape, and no beads, grooves, or other things that can trap the lacquer as it flows down along the pen.
If you are dipping with both barrels, the same thing about no beads or abrupt changes in dimension will apply. You must have a smooth transition between the barrels for a smooth flow of the lacquer. If the barrels are not the same size, you will have to a transition piece, or use the same mandrel bushing, that will allow a smooth flow of lacquer from one barrel to the other.
You can use a bolt, a piece of all-thread rod and a couple nuts, or a piece of wood dowel to hold the pen barrel for dipping, but ALWAYS have an old bushing or make one from a piece of wood that is the same size as both ends of the pen barrel. You want something that makes a smooth transition onto the wood at either end.
At the bottom, this bushing will give the lacquer something to run onto and drip from other then the pen barrel. This prevents a bead of finish from forming on the end of the barrel.
If you are using a bolt, you don't want the head of the bolt or a washer to be in contact with the end of the barrel at either end. To do so will allow the lacquer to form a fillet in the corner.
If you are dipping with both barrels, always have the tip of the pen on the bottom. There will be a slight difference in the film thickness between the top and bottom of the pen and it is better to have the thicker film in the wear area on the lower barrel.
This is not a grain filler. The wood must be filled, sealed, and smooth BEFORE dipping. All imperfections in the surface will transfer through the finish. Filling the wood grain with CA glue, and sanding to at least 1000 grit are prerequisites for dipping.
Bubbles were taken care of with the above sealing with CA glue.
Regular Deft in the can is the right consistency for dipping, and its drying rate is slow enough that it will flow into a smooth film on the wood. I like to do both barrels at the same time, and this means a full quart can of Deft. If you decant the lacquer into a smaller and taller container, ALWAYS wait for the bubbles to rise in the liquid lacquer before dipping.
One dip is all that is required. Let it drip dry, and then hang it up for a week to allow the solvents to evaporate and the lacquer to get hard enough to handle.
Remove all of the bushings, and clean up the ends of the wood with a sharp barrel trimmer. Using the trimmer by hand is better than power. Lacquer is a poor glue and the sacrificial bushings should snap right off the wood.
Soak everything in lacquer thinner and you can use it again.
If you did it right, the finish will be as smooth as glass, and there is nothing you can do to make it any better.
The attached photo shows dipping with an old 7mm mandrel to hold the barrels. Note the bushing at the bottom, and the smooth transition between the barrels. Since the top is "open" there is no need for anything there.
This isn't a good photo because it is a frame that was grabbed from a video presentation of "dipping".
Isn't there an article somewhere on how to do this? If there is, I am sorry for taking up so much space for nothing.
jtate
Member
Fabulous! I printed it for my notebook of things I want to try. Is there a difference between this and "Rubbed Lacquer" I've heard people mention?
Wes, did you do the dip method?
Wes, did you do the dip method?
Charles
Member
Nice Job!!
Wes3328
Member
Jtate Sorry I did not get back sooner been out of town at a Music festival anyway I use a 50/50 mix and a spray gun
pete00
Member
pen looks very nice.
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